test yanmar 1gm10 alternator?

[Niander]

Hi i want to test my alternator with mulimeter but i dont have the wiring loom as im testing at home engine in shed as rebuilt
anyone familiar with these hitachi's?
on the back there is a positive....presume positive battery?

then there are is a connector with 2 pins
what should these connect to just to test it?
is it posible?
cheers

 

[VicS]

you can inspect the brushes and the slip rings, and you can test the diodes with a multimeter with a diode test range, but to fully test the machine including it regulator

It will need to be connected up to a battery to provide the initial excitation .

it will need need a load resistance that can be varied You will need an ammeter and a volt meter and a knowledge of its specification.

and of course the means to spin it at whatever speed the specification calls for.

The simplest thing is to take it to an auto electrician who will have a rig for fully testing it.

Oh heck I have just seen your location.

 

[DogWatch]

Hi i want to test my alternator with mulimeter but i dont have the wiring loom as im testing at home engine in shed as rebuilt
anyone familiar with these hitachi's?
on the back there is a positive....presume positive battery?

then there are is a connector with 2 pins
what should these connect to just to test it?
is it posible?
cheers

yanmar 35A_Alternator.PDF

yanmar_55A_Alternator.PDF

 

[Bilgediver]

Oh heck I have just seen your location.

Hey Vic.....They buried Brave Heart years ago and cars replaced the horse and cart . It really ain t that bad up there even if they still build wooden boats

 

[Billjratt]

Don't particularly know which alt you have, but they're much of a muchness.
The chassis could be the negative side, or there could be an isolated terminal marked B-.
Then there will be a B+ screw terminal (with maybe a spade terminal as well)
There will be a smaller screw terminal possibly marked F or 61.
Battery neg to chassis or B- (which will be joined to the neg term of the starter motor, possibly via a fuse)
Battery + to B+ and also starter solenoid.
Also from battery +, a wire through an ign lamp to the smaller alternator terminal.(F/61)
The spade terminal may have a wire to a supressor capacitor attached.
The ign light should come on when connected, and go out when the engine starts and revs up. The battery voltage should rise immediately, and gradually arrive at about 14volts.
If you are doing it without the engine, you still need the battery connections mentioned above (without the starter!) and an electric motor capable of driving the alt - If you connect everything EXCEPT the ign lamp, get it spnning, then connect the lamp, you should hear the motor come under load as the alt starts to generate. It's not quantative, but it shows the thing s generating amps.

 

[Niander]

Ok thanks for the help
hopefully the engine will be spinning it as am rebuilding it as we speak
after rebore,etc
35 amp
so on the back is positive bat
there is an earth.......E
then a connector with 2 wires
it has inbuilt regulator and converts to dc also

 

[VicS]

The dotted outlines of the case in the alternator diagrams have confused people in the past.

I therefore edited the diagram some time ago to remove these

You may therefore find the one below helpful.

It more clearly shows terminal R as being the connection for the initial excitation from the battery and terminal L as the connection for the no-charge warning light. ( P is a connection, when it exists, for a tachometer)

My comment about your location puzzles me now .. for some reason I read it as "Outer Hebrides" My thoughts were that perhaps you may not have a handy auto electrician.

 

[Niander]

for some reason I read it as "Outer Hebrides"
yes i just updated it it .....lol
ok thanks for the help