Teak

cerro

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I read somewhere that someone had bought a cockpit teak kit for his moody 35 anybody know where or how much. thanks for any help cerro
 
Moody do one that worked well on a friend's boat. I don't know how much but I do know that it was not cheap. However, I do know that it saved some labour when being fitted. Having said that the expensive bit of this job is usually getting the old stuff off!
 
I have just ordered a set of panels for the cockpit of my Sunseeker Portofino 31. I used KJ Howells of Poole, who have been very helpful.

Dave Howells
Sales Manager
K.J.Howells & Son
Cobbs Quay Marina
Hamworthy
Poole
Dorset
BH15 4EL
(01202) 665724
sales@kjhowells.com

KJ Howells

The cost was to a large degree determined by the number of individual panels.
 
"K.J.Howells & Son"

Yep, this is a superb company IMHO. I sent them full size cardboard templates for all my cockpit teak panels and was amazed and delighted at the result. They were, quite literally, millimetre perfect and beautifully made though not cheap.
Their customer care/follow-up was amazing and I would definitely use them again without hesitation.

No axe to grind etc, just a damned good British company.
 
[ QUOTE ]
The current price of the raw timber is about £150 per cubic foot.

[/ QUOTE ]Is that for dressed timber or off-saw?
I pay around £100/cube off-saw for Teak or around £22/cube for Iroko off-saw.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
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£150 was the price quoted by Richards of Pentraeth for sawn timber. He knew I wasn't buying (I was discussing the dressing of my hoard of reclaimed 5" x 2.5" teak decking), so he may have been shooting a line.

Teak eats planer blades for breakfast, and no-one wants to touch my stuff, even if I present it spotlessly clean. I'm currently looking for someone who has a thicknessing or three-drum sander. Anyone got a contact?

Mark
 
[ QUOTE ]
£150 was the price quoted by Richards of Pentraeth for sawn timber. He knew I wasn't buying (I was discussing the dressing of my hoard of reclaimed 5" x 2.5" teak decking), so he may have been shooting a line.

[/ QUOTE ]I think I would be inclined to agree with you[ QUOTE ]
Teak eats planer blades for breakfast,

[/ QUOTE ]Not totally true - Teak will eat cheap or blunt knives (blades) but a good quality set of knives, kept sharp, will plane a lot of teak - once the edge starts to go though they will become blunt very quickly[ QUOTE ]
and no-one wants to touch my stuff, even if I present it spotlessly clean.

[/ QUOTE ]I normally refuse to dress reclaimed timber for anyone unless they want to pay for a new set of knives up front. Hidden staples or nails or broken screws make a real mess of the knives, add to that the time to sharpen and reset the knives and it ain't worth it.[ QUOTE ]
I'm currently looking for someone who has a thicknessing or three-drum sander. Anyone got a contact?

[/ QUOTE ]You need to take the twist out first on a surfacer before you try to thickness it
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>
 
Thanks. For the first batch I used my own 10" planer-thicknesser, and managed about 200 ft before I had to replace the blades. I tried resharpening them myself using a purpose-made jig on a wet grindstone, and it took me hours and hours. The other problem was that a small machine like mine does not produce the accuracy you can get on a big one. Once planed and thicknessed, I can get the planks sawn into strips (provided of course that I pay for any damage if I have failed to spot all the nails, screws and staples - very few, mercifully). The first batch were made into doors and windows and made SWMBO very happy - very durable hardwood without the guilty conscience.

Er, sorry, folks, maybe we should move this to PBO.

Mark
 
I am quite fortunate to still have a very old thicknesser.

Cast iron, three blades and single phase. (just runs on 13 amps)

Been spending the last few days making mouldings in iroko from 10" x 2" off the saw planks.

Very dusty work. It eats the surface of the blades but they seem to last quite well between sharpenings.

The circular saw blades are a different matter they are tipped but don't hold their edge for any length of time. I seem to be changing them all the time.

Must be much poorer quality than the old ones in the thicknesser. I had them redressed by a company in Inverness and they certainly did a good job of them.

As Cliff said it certainly takes some time to set them up again.

I can't afford to buy teak, much as I would like to. I need to make two gratings soon one 600x 1200 for the cockpit and another 450 square for a shower. I imagine I will have to stick to iroko.

Iain
 
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