Teak and caulking

I had similar problems on my old HR352. The only real solution is to pull the loose caulking out, and you'll find quite a lot of it will pull out easily. When you get to somewhere that's firmly affixed, cut it off diagonally with a craft knife or scalpel. Sand the inside edges of the groove. Apply primer, if it's needed for your chosen caulking. Then mask off, caulk, smooth, remove masking, sand to level finish.

Earlier HRs, and maybe Malos too, used silicone-based caulking, so you might investigate what was used originally before deciding what to re-caulk with.

Have your decks worn so that the caulking is standing proud of the teak? This is usually the case when caulking starts to pull out. The remedy is to slice off the protruding caulking with a scalpel, then gently sand the deck to restore a smooth finish. I did it on my HR352, and vowed never to buy another boat with a teak deck! My new boat has fake teak.
 
I can recommend the Teak Decking Systems caulk.

Available here.
https://www.boatpaint.co.uk/acatalog/TDS-SIS-440-Deck-Caulking.html

Great adhesion and very elastic.

I laid my new teak deck on my Nic39 using TDS's materials (epoxy and caulk).

No problems after 6 years - still looks great.

BTW When I was doing my research the TDS caulk had good reviews by people doing caulking repairs.


Expecting to be contradicted :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
I have done it!
Remove the bits that need doing.
I used Stanley knife to slice and then a sharp chisel ( have a sharpener to hand!) to remove any caulk still on the sides of the teak plus possibly sanding as well.
It was recommended to use acetone to de-oil those edges as well and then to prime. Important that this preparation is done well to ensure the caulk sticks well to the teak sides.
You need to get some tape into the bottom of the groove to PREVENT the caulk from bonding there. As the gap will have to expand and contract it must stick well to the sides but not to the bottom.
I used masking tape right up to the edge of the grooves, squeezed in a good bead of caulk and used a wide chisel to scrape/level the caulk ( you will soon be a good judge of the right amount to squeeze in!) remove the masking tape quickly Pull it off at a shallow angle so as not to pull up the caulk wear gloves as its messy.
These are just a few tips you really need to read up what you can!
Enjoy!
 
BlowingOldBoots said:
What is wrong with you, that you have to question my post?
Click to expand...

Because you said "It all looks very simple to do...", but if you've act ually done it yourself, you'd know that it's a filthy, back-breaking, knee-killing job which anyone who's done it wouldn't want to do again. But they don't tell you that on Google, do they?
 
pvb said:
I had similar problems on my old HR352. The only real solution is to pull the loose caulking out, and you'll find quite a lot of it will pull out easily. When you get to somewhere that's firmly affixed, cut it off diagonally with a craft knife or scalpel. Sand the inside edges of the groove. Apply primer, if it's needed for your chosen caulking. Then mask off, caulk, smooth, remove masking, sand to level finish.

Earlier HRs, and maybe Malos too, used silicone-based caulking, so you might investigate what was used originally before deciding what to re-caulk with.

Have your decks worn so that the caulking is standing proud of the teak? This is usually the case when caulking starts to pull out. The remedy is to slice off the protruding caulking with a scalpel, then gently sand the deck to restore a smooth finish. I did it on my HR352, and vowed never to buy another boat with a teak deck! My new boat has fake teak.
Click to expand...

The actual teak is v g for a 1996 boat and the caulking does not sit proud at all. Just this occasional stripping of caulking is slipping out. Interesting other comments. Yes I know it's hard work having replaced a few plugs. Thanks all who have advised so far.
 
pvb said:
Because you said "It all looks very simple to do...", but if you've act ually done it yourself, you'd know that it's a filthy, back-breaking, knee-killing job which anyone who's done it wouldn't want to do again. But they don't tell you that on Google, do they?
Click to expand...

+1000
 
pvb said:
Because you said "It all looks very simple to do...", but if you've act ually done it yourself, you'd know that it's a filthy, back-breaking, knee-killing job which anyone who's done it wouldn't want to do again. But they don't tell you that on Google, do they?
Click to expand...

But what is wrong with you, why the puerile reaction to me helping the OP? I do not understand you, it's as if you have some sort of superiority complex that you must assuage by trying to demean people. You're attempt to mock me is baseless and your justification irrelevant.
 
BlowingOldBoots said:
But what is wrong with you, why the puerile reaction to me helping the OP? I do not understand you, it's as if you have some sort of superiority complex that you must assuage by trying to demean people. You're attempt to mock me is baseless and your justification irrelevant.
Click to expand...

Keep digging....
 
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