Teak and caulking

[pvb]

Oh great, guess what is rapidly nearing the top of my to do list after a couple of years of putting it off.

I put off doing it on my HR for some considerable time! Eventually, I got around to it, but I have to say it was a fairly horrible job. The end result wasn't too bad. One of the problems with renovating HR decks (and some other Scandinavian makes) is that they used quite narrow teak planks, so there's miles of caulking involved!

 

[vas]

I suspect that weather isn't the (additional) issue for you that I think it will be for me.

true, but heat is almost as bad as you should really only caulk in the afternoon when temps drop, but it shouldn't be under the sun and overheated. Still better than trying to work on a dump and misserable day

I put off doing it on my HR for some considerable time! Eventually, I got around to it, but I have to say it was a fairly horrible job. The end result wasn't too bad. One of the problems with renovating HR decks (and some other Scandinavian makes) is that they used quite narrow teak planks, so there's miles of caulking involved!

the reason I'm trying to cut the planks as wide as I can (around 50mm) so I can minimise the overall effort and COST of TDS

V.

 

[pvb]

the reason I'm trying to cut the planks as wide as I can (around 50mm) so I can minimise the overall effort and COST of TDS

Good point, decent caulking isn't cheap.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Keep digging....

You just can't help yourself, why are you still being rude?

I was employed on yachts for 8 years, labouring in the winter on maintenance, scraping antifouling and repairing stuff under supervision, I have repaired caulked seams. Like scraping antifouling it's an easy job to do but like many jobs on yachts there is a degree of awkwardness associated with it, but it's hardly a difficult task and today there are good videos and data on the web.

You could have made your point without the sarcasm.

 

[LoneHort]

Caladh,
We did our whole boat last year. Salar 40 yacht. Took a while and SWMBO is still beside me .
2 bent screwdrivers ground and sharpened to fit the grooves, fein multi master caulk removal tool and side sander tool to key the grooves helped greatly. As for your caulk of choice we went for CT1 and it looks great now.
Wessex 2 part teak restorer finished the job along with Sempco sealer.
Some pics here prior to the cleaner/restorer here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cUDpHT7NXcd88uHm6

Hope this helps,
Michael

 

[pcatterall]

Just to add to my post. I mentioned using a chisel to scrape the sides of the strips clean. In truth the sharp chisel could dig into the teak so I started to use the side of the chisel, drawing it hard against the teak.The edge needs to ( what I call 'blunt sharp' rather than 'cutting sharp' As LoneHort suggested ground down screw drivers could be used.

Your task sounds like you could restrict it to a manageable area at a time. Just have the tools and caulking ready so you can take advantage of a good day.

 

[pvb]

Just have the tools and caulking ready so you can take advantage of a good day.

My top tip for tools is to have a big cardboard box handy on the deck to put the masking tape in as you peel it off the grooves. Put a brick in the bottom to stop it blowing away (don't ask how I know this).

Also copious kitchen roll and meths, to clean the wet caulking off your soles - you will tread on it at some point!

 

[ghostlymoron]

I think it's called trollism.

But what is wrong with you, why the puerile reaction to me helping the OP? I do not understand you, it's as if you have some sort of superiority complex that you must assuage by trying to demean people. You're attempt to mock me is baseless and your justification irrelevant.

 

[Caladh]

Caladh,
We did our whole boat last year. Salar 40 yacht. Took a while and SWMBO is still beside me .
2 bent screwdrivers ground and sharpened to fit the grooves, fein multi master caulk removal tool and side sander tool to key the grooves helped greatly. As for your caulk of choice we went for CT1 and it looks great now.
Wessex 2 part teak restorer finished the job along with Sempco sealer.
Some pics here prior to the cleaner/restorer here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cUDpHT7NXcd88uHm6

Hope this helps,
Michael

Thanks for this Michael.

 

[Joker]

1. Use TDS not sika.
2. I've had a similar problem, except that it's been frost that pulled the caulking out.

 

[Blue Sunray]

Your task sounds like you could restrict it to a manageable area at a time. Just have the tools and caulking ready so you can take advantage of a good day.

That is my plan, with the caveat that I don't want to waste too much caulk. Has anyone any idea/experience of how long it will last in an opened tube?

 

[Blue Sunray]

1. Use TDS not sika.

Why?

 

[pcatterall]

That is my plan, with the caveat that I don't want to waste too much caulk. Has anyone any idea/experience of how long it will last in an opened tube?

Seal the end and a few weeks should be ok.

Once you know what a tube will cover you could plan around using a whole tube per session?

 

[Forty_Two]

And get one of these if you have a lot to do. O boy does it make life easier.

https://www.direct-powertools.co.uk/ryobi-ccg1801mhg-one-18v-caulking-sealant-gun-c2x13900808

Warm the sealant tubes in the sun if possible as well.

+1 for the Fein tools.

 

[tudorsailor]

Can I ask about a sander for the deck? I am having my deck recaulked and the carpenter is not removing all the deck fittings. However I do need to replace all the stanchion base screws as some have corroded. I will do this over the summer. So while the stanchions are off, I thought I could bring the teak back to being flush with the rest of the deck.

So what would be the recommended sander for what would be multiple small areas? A Makita BO6030 random orbital sander? Or a cordless Dewalt?

Thanks

TS

 

[Blue Sunray]

Seal the end and a few weeks should be ok.

Once you know what a tube will cover you could plan around using a whole tube per session?

That's indeed what I hope to do.

 

[Joker]

One of the problems with sika is what I call 'stringing' - you pull the tube away and there's this long string of sika which breaks and goes into places where you don't want it to go.
TDS is much better from that point of view. It is also very easily removed with white spirit, and it is easy to remove the excess from a groove with a chisel. And it sands well.

 

[Blue Sunray]

One of the problems with sika is what I call 'stringing' - you pull the tube away and there's this long string of sika which breaks and goes into places where you don't want it to go.
TDS is much better from that point of view. It is also very easily removed with white spirit, and it is easy to remove the excess from a groove with a chisel. And it sands well.

vmt