Taylors stove - oven won't light

I originally started this thread, a few weeks on and I'm a convert. I use a large pipette and meths, far more civilised than a plumbers blow torch that also involves keeping gas on board. Soon as the meths dies I turn the knob and we are away with powerful flame, excellent heat and no flare up (yet). My son who camps a lot thought it was amazing. I've got a feeling 4 litres is going to last a lot longer than a gas bottle and it's fun, it makes having a cuppa a mini adventure. We're sailors, since when is the best way the easiest, on that basis we'd all be motor boaters!
Thanks for everyone's input. YBW's forum is invaluable.
 
I fitted a Taylors stove and had it for about a year. It looked great, but was a disaster.

After a season the inside of the saloon was covered in an oily deposit, and the preheating was always a pain. But there was one particular incident which caused me to heave it over the side (metaphorically speaking). There was a small leak in one of the paraffin liquid pipe joints just under the stove, which I hadn't detected it. One day I lit the stove and Kaboom, about a quarter of a pint of paraffin, which had leaked into the lower area of the stove, went up in flames. Fortunately I am paranoid about boat fires, and had lined the galley area with stainless steel and fire insulation: no major damage done..

Ever since I have had an Origo, which is definitely very safe and efficient.
 
I fitted a Taylors stove and had it for about a year. It looked great, but was a disaster.

After a season the inside of the saloon was covered in an oily deposit, and the preheating was always a pain. But there was one particular incident which caused me to heave it over the side (metaphorically speaking). There was a small leak in one of the paraffin liquid pipe joints just under the stove, which I hadn't detected it. One day I lit the stove and Kaboom, about a quarter of a pint of paraffin, which had leaked into the lower area of the stove, went up in flames. Fortunately I am paranoid about boat fires, and had lined the galley area with stainless steel and fire insulation: no major damage done..

Ever since I have had an Origo, which is definitely very safe and efficient.

This is somewhat surprising because paraffin has a flash point in the region of 43C and is not classed as highly flammable. A spillage should not ordinarily ignite. Perhaps you had also split some meths.

Methylated spirit is by comparison a much more hazardous material with a flash point of only 12C. It is classed as highly flammable. Spillages will easily ignite. In the workplace there are regulations controlling the storage and handling of highly flammable liquids. I don't see how you can say that something using a highly flammable liquid as fuel is "very safe".
 
In my pocket cruiser I had a single primus stove that sat in a set of gimbaks with a very heavy lead base, worked a treat.The gimbals where made iron and must have been war time issue as I have never seen any similar.
 
But a leaking pipe is not the fault of the cooker surely, doesn't matter what stove it is, a leaking gas pipe could have been disastrous.
You wouldn't blame the engine for a leaking fuel pipe. I've tried putting a match to paraffin and I can't light it, which is the whole point of pre-heating and the attraction of paraffin isn't it?
Does anyone else have a problem with oily deposits in the saloon?
 
NB, there are at least three types of burner in use on Taylor's Stoves, and parts are not all interchangeable. If you have a choice use the Hanse burners from Germany. I had a stormy early relationship with my stove, but have since settled down into a comfortable and peaceful harmony. If you want it to behave run it at lower pressure than the manual recommends - especially with the Hanse burners - 15-20 psi. Oh, and throw away their silly pump for pressurising and buy a lid you can attach a bike pump on to.

I too use a syringe to apply the meths. Surprised of reports of success with 10 ml - I'd go for 20ish. Also, get a kitchen timer set for the preheat time (about 4 minutes in my hands) then you won't try lighting it after is has cooled down. I don't do flare-ups any more with these methods.

ps A nicer preheat method might be climbers' solid fuel tablets. I have had success with them, but never really worked at it to develop a foolproof method.
 
This is somewhat surprising because paraffin has a flash point in the region of 43C and is not classed as highly flammable. A spillage should not ordinarily ignite. Perhaps you had also split some meths.

Methylated spirit is by comparison a much more hazardous material with a flash point of only 12C. It is classed as highly flammable. Spillages will easily ignite. In the workplace there are regulations controlling the storage and handling of highly flammable liquids. I don't see how you can say that something using a highly flammable liquid as fuel is "very safe".

A good point, however the Origo is extremely safe by way of having no piping, as the fuel is contained by the material within the 'can', that it's burnt within.
Pretty much the only hazardous process involved with an Origo is refilling these cans, which could go badly if one didn't follow safe practice, which is really the same with all of these devices at the end of the day!
I use the Origo, as I think that it's the best suited for my needs and preferences, which I'm sure applies to us all.
 
Yes I like the Origo, which we recently installed. I keep the alcohol in what used to be the gas bottle locker, in the 1-litre bottles it's supplied in. I only refill the containers in the cockpit.
 
NB, there are at least three types of burner in use on Taylor's Stoves, and parts are not all interchangeable. If you have a choice use the Hanse burners from Germany. I had a stormy early relationship with my stove, but have since settled down into a comfortable and peaceful harmony. If you want it to behave run it at lower pressure than the manual recommends - especially with the Hanse burners - 15-20 psi. Oh, and throw away their silly pump for pressurising and buy a lid you can attach a bike pump on to.

I too use a syringe to apply the meths. Surprised of reports of success with 10 ml - I'd go for 20ish. Also, get a kitchen timer set for the preheat time (about 4 minutes in my hands) then you won't try lighting it after is has cooled down. I don't do flare-ups any more with these methods.

ps A nicer preheat method might be climbers' solid fuel tablets. I have had success with them, but never really worked at it to develop a foolproof method.

10ml is definitely enough with my Optimus, but 20 would be a safer bet. SWMBO claims a zero flareup rate but is a bit more generous with the alcool than I am.
Good idea about the kitchen timer, might have to steal that myself.
 
NB, there are at least three types of burner in use on Taylor's Stoves, and parts are not all interchangeable. If you have a choice use the Hanse burners from Germany. I had a stormy early relationship with my stove, but have since settled down into a comfortable and peaceful harmony. If you want it to behave run it at lower pressure than the manual recommends - especially with the Hanse burners - 15-20 psi. Oh, and throw away their silly pump for pressurising and buy a lid you can attach a bike pump on to.

I too use a syringe to apply the meths. Surprised of reports of success with 10 ml - I'd go for 20ish. Also, get a kitchen timer set for the preheat time (about 4 minutes in my hands) then you won't try lighting it after is has cooled down. I don't do flare-ups any more with these methods.

ps A nicer preheat method might be climbers' solid fuel tablets. I have had success with them, but never really worked at it to develop a foolproof method.
This sounds a bit of a faff compared with my "turn gas on and light" method.
 
This sounds a bit of a faff compared with my "turn gas on and light" method.

You don't understand the true appeal of using a classic stove; the leisurely anticipation of getting it lit, the thrill of pouring different flammable liquids into it, the mystery of the almost invisible flames of methylated spirits, the classic lingering aroma, the final relief of boiling a kettle without setting yourself or the boat on fire and, best of all, the sooty deposits on the coachroof which are like the patina on antique furniture.
 
10ml is definitely enough with my Optimus, but 20 would be a safer bet. SWMBO claims a zero flareup rate but is a bit more generous with the alcool than I am.
Good idea about the kitchen timer, might have to steal that myself.

The instruction manual for the Optimus says 25ml, but I agree that 10 or possibly 15ml is enough. Especially when using a donut shaped wick, which tends to make the preheating more efficient.

I use a bottle like this for dosing:
http://classiccampstoves.com/threads/optimus-meths-spirit-bottle-est-1970s.23184/
 
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When I want a cuppa, I want it NOW!
You don't understand the true appeal of using a classic stove; the leisurely anticipation of getting it lit, the thrill of pouring different flammable liquids into it, the mystery of the almost invisible flames of methylated spirits, the classic lingering aroma, the final relief of boiling a kettle without setting yourself or the boat on fire and, best of all, the sooty deposits on the coachroof which are like the patina on antique furniture.
 
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