Tankard 23

Buzzrtbi

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Not sure this is posted in the right place but I am sure it can be moved if not.

I need some advice if I may please.

I have been offered a Tankard 23 Bilge Keel boat which requires quite a bit of work.

The GRP hull and wooden deck is all sound but all of the rigging has been removed. Interior is in need of many hours work but is all "doable".

My problem is that despite an exhaustive search on Google I cannot find anything useful.

I cannot decide if this "labour of love" is worth the effort or not.

I would like to restore it to "as built" but my problem is I dont have anything to refer to. No schematics, no plans, no rigging info etc.

Is there anywhere I can look up this boat and perhaps purchase some plans? I dont know where to start to be perfectly honest.

Many thanks

Tim
 
thanks for that. I did find that but not sure if the Tankard 24 is similar in design to the Tankard 23 ?

I reckon the boat was built in the 70's. I dont know much about the history of Tankard as a business?

I appreciate you looking. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Designed by Brian Tankard, and built in Tavistock by his company in the early 1970s. Later boats had GRP decks, and I believe were stretched slightly in length. As far as I know the company has been out of business for nearly 30 years, so tracing proper plans now may be very difficult.
 
Designed by Oliver J Lee. Built by Brian Tankard at Weir Quay on the Tamar. LWL 19', LOA 23'4", Beam 7'2", Draft (fin) 3'6". Sail Area 250 sq ft.Bermudan Sloop. 12 HP inboard (Dolphin), 4 Berths. Never sailed one but sailed against one regularly in local evening races. Faster than my Manta 19 off the wind but slower to windward. Decent accommodation for size of boat.
 
I used to own a Tankard 24, 1974 build. Same construction etc. I may still have some drawings etc. Built by Brian Tankard, Wier Quay boatyard, up the Tamar. PM me your address and I will copy and forward what little I have if it helps.

Andrew Gardener
 
Is this it?
IMG-2.jpg


Boat World Guide No2 aprox 1974
 
looks similar except mine is a bilge (twin) keel not a fin but the cabin and shape look very similar.

It is a nice boat, or at least could be. The previous owner has re-done the deck and hull and taken the mast etc. off. It is difficult now to see how it attached to the deck etc.

Thanks for all the responses on this. I have been in two minds as to whether to spend the effort on this project but the more info I get the more realistic it will become.

here is a general picture - I will take a few more.
tankard.jpg



cheers
 
If you have to buy new rigging and sails you may well find the project more expensive than buying a secondhand boat.

The tankard was built here in West Oz (presumably under licence) some years back. Yes possibly not as fast to windward as more modern boats. Here they had outboard power and were all fin keel boats.

I remember one Trevor Steel had one which he refurbished at least 30 years ago. He went back to UK does he read this forum?

Anyway I would not try too hard to return the boat to original condition. I think a fractional rig with aft sept spreaders is far better than the original mast head rig. But might require the mast be moved further forward. The mast here was deck stepped on a tabernacle that allowed hinging the mast down. This needs a post or solid structure under the mast to support it. However keel stepped mast is OK.

the flush deck should make cabin nice down stairs. good luck olewill
 
thanks for that.

I do have the mast and sails so it is all there, just needs reassembling. The mast foot is a big challenge - Ii is not present in the pile of stuff so will need to find something suitable!
 
The design of a mast foot can be a few different ways.

Traditional step has 2 paralell posts mounted vertically spaced for the width of the mast. a bolt goes through the posts and through the mast.
The bolt is a sloppy fit so all the mast compression when up is on the block at the bottom of the mast.

Mast specialists do a hinging step which is like a small cast aluminium tray with raised sides. At one end are lugs to suit a similar tray which has a plug section to suit the mast size. A bolt goes through the lugs at the back to allow hinging. This type is easy to fit if you can get one to suit the Al mast dimensions. The bottom tray is just screwed to the cabin top. With post underneath. This type is very susceptible to damage if the mast swings sideways when lowering. The lugs snap off.

If you are happy to crane the mast on all you need is a block of wood the shape and size of the inside of the mast screwed to the cabin top. The mast sits over this block so it can't twist or slip forward or sideways. Likewise a low box can be made for the mast to drop into. Look at dinghies for the way they do it.

My step type has a SS plate on the deck with a raised spine about 20mm high with a raised lug at the back with hole for a bolt. The mast has a plate welded to the bottom of it with a slot cut to suit the spine and it has 2 lugs welded to the back of mast. So similar to the fi8rst commercial type but the lugs are close together about 10mm gap between them and the bolt is about 35mm long. This closeness means the mast can swing sideways with a bending force that bends the lugs apart a little but with very little damage. Masts always swing sideways if you are not carefull when lowering.

So I hope that gives you some ideas for a mast step. good luck olewill
 
The mast mounting is not really going to be all that major an issue IMHO. You need to look at the foot of the mast, get a photo, and have a chat with a local rigger who shpould be able to identify straight away the type of fitting that was used. Probably also he can source one for you too.

If, as I would expect for a boat of this age it is the traditional tabernacle, (OleWills 2 parallel posts), then they are not difficult to have made up, or possibly somewhere dealing in second hand gear like Foullkes Chandlery Barge on the Hamble will almost certainly have something suitable.

The omnly thing then remaining is to ensure that the decking is strong enough to take the downward thrust of the rig below the fitting.
 
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