TAMD41P exhaust elbow

[oldgit]

and those are all Volvo Penta.
Mercruiser risers on raw water engines were a joke. Presumably they are better now.
Exhaust Risers: Buying, Owning and Maintaining Boats and Yachts

........had boat with couple of ancient petrol "Black Anchors" years ago, the scale eventually blocked the risers and the water pressure burst the exhaust hose.

 

[DavidJ]

New elbow ordered from Keypart at 15.20 yesterday afternoon, delivered to the Isle of Man at 12.00pm today with free postage! Incredible service ???

Just to show how blocked the old elbow was….

View attachment 124900

Thanks for the comparison pic. I replaced my turbos last year and had no idea that the elbow was supposed to look like the LHS.
You have pricked my conscience.
How much from Keypart?

 

[Jamie Dundee]

Thanks for the comparison pic. I replaced my turbos last year and had no idea that the elbow was supposed to look like the LHS.
You have pricked my conscience.
How much from Keypart?

£260 with free postage, arrived in less than 24 hours. The previous owner of my boat had a new turbo fitted 3-4 years ago, I’m guessing the elbow wasn’t inspected at the time.

 

[Jamie Dundee]

Hmm, half an hour with a Dremmel and a big hammer. I’ll fit the new one (obviously!) but keep the old as a spare.

 

[oldgit]

Thanks for the comparison pic. I replaced my turbos last year and had no idea that the elbow was supposed to look like the LHS.
You have pricked my conscience.
How much from Keypart?

Cripes they have gone up from last year , pre you know they were once under £200.00 delivered via ebay.

 

[Jamie Dundee]

Cripes they have gone up from last year , pre you know what they were under £200.00 delivered via ebay.

Repower has got them for under £200 but the 3.5” is out of stock ? Exhaust System - Parts for Volvo Penta Diesel - Volvo Penta

 

[AndieMac]

and those are all Volvo Penta.
Mercruiser risers on raw water engines were a joke. Presumably they are better now.
Exhaust Risers: Buying, Owning and Maintaining Boats and Yachts

........had boat with couple of ancient petrol "Black Anchors" years ago, the scale eventually blocked the risers and the water pressure burst the exhaust hose.

Since the introduction of “Dry Joint” risers about 15-ish years ago, essentially by creating large diameter raw water galleries instead of the narrow older style, the length of time between changing increased dramatically.
I’m not sure the old school VP petrol engines were much better than Merc with raw water cooled versions?!
Early fresh water cooled options from Merc were hit and miss, often needing and extra cooling pump fitted to keep temps normal, and locally, dealers advised to go raw water cooled because of the problems.
VP in later years lifted the game with all their petrol options being properly FWC, so Merc had to be dragged into improving their FWC options, which I believe have improved also.

BTW, I did enjoy David Pascoes’ take no prisoners attitude to criticising design flaws in boats and boat systems, it makes great reading.

 

[oldgit]

Since the introduction of “Dry Joint” risers about 15-ish years ago, essentially by creating large diameter raw water galleries instead of the narrow older style, the length of time between changing increased dramatically.
I’m not sure the old school VP petrol engines were much better than Merc with raw water cooled versions?!
Early fresh water cooled options from Merc were hit and miss, often needing and extra cooling pump fitted to keep temps normal, and locally, dealers advised to go raw water cooled because of the problems.
VP in later years lifted the game with all their petrol options being properly FWC, so Merc had to be dragged into improving their FWC options, which I believe have improved also.

BTW, I did enjoy David Pascoes’ take no prisoners attitude to criticising design flaws in boats and boat systems, it makes great reading.

...off course we have learnt so many lessons since then

 

[DavidJ]

Is this the only way out for raw water?

 

[Plum]

I’m putting a metal blanking gasket on the blank plug and card exhaust gasket on the inlet hose tail. Hopefully all will be good ?

What is the bast way to ensure a good seal between the elbow and the turbo? It's a metal to metal joint and the clamp does not apply much pressure. Mine appears to have a good seal but always a bit concerned about exhaust leakage.

 

[julians]

What is the bast way to ensure a good seal between the elbow and the turbo? It's a metal to metal joint and the clamp does not apply much pressure. Mine appears to have a good seal but always a bit concerned about exhaust leakage.

I'm assuming it's a v clamp that hold the elbow to the turbo on your engine (like most volvo penta engines) ? If so then you just do the clamp up to the specified torque and that draws the two parts together and seals them.

 

[Jamie Dundee]

What is the bast way to ensure a good seal between the elbow and the turbo? It's a metal to metal joint and the clamp does not apply much pressure. Mine appears to have a good seal but always a bit concerned about exhaust leakage.

I’m just going to put it back as it was with the V clamp. Seemed to work ok, fingers crossed again!

 

[oldgit]

We used a smear of exhaust paste.

 

[bowler]

We used a smear of exhaust paste.

Me too.

 

[paradave]

Really i retested to hear how it looks at the back at temp Jamie. Good luck.

 

[Jamie Dundee]

Really i retested to hear how it looks at the back at temp Jamie. Good luck.

I’ll take a photo next year………………

Don’t hold your breath ☠

 

[Pleinmont]

Thanks for posting about this.
The old one looked like it cleaned up pretty well.

I have some visible steam when underway same as you so will try to have a look at the state of my elbow at some point soon. Same engine and similar age.

Did it all come apart reasonably easily for a DIY job on the mooring?

 

[Jamie Dundee]

Thanks for posting about this.
The old one looked like it cleaned up pretty well.

I have some visible steam when underway same as you so will try to have a look at the state of my elbow at some point soon. Same engine and similar age.

Did it all come apart reasonably easily for a DIY job on the mooring?

Very easy job apart from the proximity of the V clamp nut to the turbo which makes getting a spanner on awkward. You have to open the clamp further than you think in order to wiggle the elbow free. Close your inlet seacock before mucking about and prepare for a bit of leakage when you take the feed pipe off the elbow.

 

[Pleinmont]

Nice one, thanks!
Will bear that in mind.

Ps - when you cleaned the deposits out the inside of the old one do you think they would be dissolvable at all or just need to be physically chipped off?
Was thinking about taking it off, filling it with brick acid and leave it dissolve away the mess - sure I have seen that mentioned somewhere...

 

[Jamie Dundee]

Nice one, thanks!
Will bear that in mind.

Ps - when you cleaned the deposits out the inside of the old one do you think they would be dissolvable at all or just need to be physically chipped off?
Was thinking about taking it off, filling it with brick acid and leave it dissolve away the mess - sure I have seen that mentioned somewhere...

It might do, maybe worth a try. Half an hour with the Dremel worked for me, along with judicious tapping with a heavy hammer to dislodge rust further inside, which also convinced me that the casing is sound and not about to break up like Oldgit’s elbow did.