Tamd41a oil cooler

[colhel]

I noticed a drip from oil cooler drain plug so gently tried to undo it. Unfortunately it broke away at the housing so I now have quite a major job.
Can anyone advise what my options are please?
Access is pretty poor so will have to move the heat exchanger.
Prior to this I warmed the engine to change the oil, should I drain it now?

 

[stelican]

I have used an Easy-out successfuly in the past.
Is the drain plug in the end cap if so it may well be worth removing and carrying out job on the bench. (work not park)

 

[colhel]

I have used an Easy-out successfuly in the past

Sorry I didn't explain very well. The plug broke off with the female part of the thread still attached. In other words, the oil cooler housing has broken

 

[volvopaul]

Sorry I didn't explain very well. The plug broke off with the female part of the thread still attached. In other words, the oil cooler housing has broken

Take the cooler off then solder the bush back on to the end of the cooler .

 

[colhel]

Take the cooler off then solder the bush back on to the end of the cooler .

Yep I'll try that. Have you come across this before?

 

[colhel]

Until the heat exchanger is removed I can't see the damage, but looking at pictures online, is the drain plug part of the end cap? If it is, I'm thinking I could make a new one. ?

 

[Plum]

Until the heat exchanger is removed I can't see the damage, but looking at pictures online, is the drain plug part of the end cap? If it is, I'm thinking I could make a new one. ?

It's questionable whether you need that drain plug at all. The engine instruction book I have does not mention draining the seawater from the oil cooler therefore you have more options on how to block the hole you now have.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[colhel]

It's questionable whether you need that drain plug at all. The engine instruction book I have does not mention draining the seawater from the oil cooler therefore you have more options on how to block the hole you now have.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Looking at more images online, a lot of them don't have a drain. Unfortunately though this end is part of the internals with an end cap at the other end, which rules out a new end cap.

 

[Bandit]

If its a 41 so probably 20 years old and the cooler has not been off in the last 7-8 years, remove it and strip it down for a thorough inspection on the bench.

The normal problem is the drips of water on the outside sitting on the hot engine and partially drying to a strong brine solution and bridging the bronze plate over the rubber o ring to the aluminium casing causing bi metallic corrosion to the Aluminium casing . If left it will blow out the oil and seize the engine.

Aluminium tanks the problem is salt on the outside and fuel bug on the inside corroding the tank.

Steel is good but corrosion on the inside, rust from dirty fuel on the inside and corrosion on the outside.

Stainless, it needs to be thick enough sheeting and strains on the welds causing failures.

Why are boats not built with drains and sumps?

 

[colhel]

Could I just remove the inside assembly with all the tubes and bring that back to inspect and service?

 

[Moonbeam]

You are probably already aware of this youtube video series on TAMD41 overhaul.... if not, this is the oil cooler episode:

 

[Mr Googler]

You’ll be as well to whip it off. Only 3 bolts hold the whole thing on the side of the block.

The problem as said above is the housing can get eaten. Mine was pretty close to the o ring seal so well worth the effort

 

[colhel]

You are probably already aware of this youtube video series on TAMD41 overhaul.... if not, this is the oil cooler episode:

Yes a very well put together series I thought.

@Mr Googler , Thanks, worth taking the whole lot off then.

 

[superheat6k]

You’ll be as well to whip it off. Only 3 bolts hold the whole thing on the side of the block.

The problem as said above is the housing can get eaten. Mine was pretty close to the o ring seal so well worth the effort

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Wow some amount of de-zincification going on there. For a marine engine manufacturer I am amazed at what crap V P provide their customers. I am firmly of a view I will never own another of their awful engines.

 

[Plum]

Wow some amount of de-zincification going on there. For a marine engine manufacturer I am amazed at what crap V P provide their customers. I am firmly of a view I will never own another of their awful engines.

Hmm, you have obviously had a different experience, I have no complaints of mine.

 

[superheat6k]

Hmm, you have obviously had a different experience, I have no complaints of mine.

The last VPs I owned were TAMD60C. One of the main plate heat exchangers failed and VP wanted ~£1,700 for one, although I did finally buy two for £1,200 from Keypart as a stock clearance deal.

Then the gear oil coolers went at the casing joints due to de-zincing. Again VP ~ £800 each, so I replaced both with properly made coolers from Bowman for just £200 including all the necessary fittings. Everything about VP is expensive and just ask TAMD74 owners about their horror stories with the ECUs.

I feel really sorry for owners of IPS systems once they get past 10 - 12 years old and the problems start. They will really need to standby to have their trousers taken down.

Ford and Cummins marine engines were based upon industrial / truck engines with minimal marinations, hence spare parts are plentiful and cheap, and both are very very reliable. For some reason VP have taken in the marine market, and yet some of their systems are just not fit for purpose, especially where coolers are concerned.

So as I said I would not buy a boat with the green monsters inside again.

 

[russ]

I recently decided to replace some engine hoses. Silly money for a bit of rubber. One was £45 for a straight 60mm long hose.

 

[colhel]

You’ll be as well to whip it off. Only 3 bolts hold the whole thing on the side of the block.

The problem as said above is the housing can get eaten. Mine was pretty close to the o ring seal so well worth the effort

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Yep mines been eaten aswell and working towards the seal. How did you repair yours please?

 

[Mr Googler]

QuikSteel - Quick Aluminium Repair Putty - Chemical Steel Reinforced Putty - 57g 728489564027 | eBay

Alternatively….have it welded and machined back.

I took a view that it’s not an area under high pressure (as long as the seals are good) or needing mega structural strength. I had to use a file once it had gone off….pretty strong stuff.

 

[oldgit]

Outfit on ebay will do refurb for around £300.00 and frequently the oil coller casting in various states of decay on sale.
Ideal for those us us with no patience at all.
Buy one, get it repaired , pop your old internals inside.
Half day to remove , refit and go boating.