TAMD41 and Anodes - Rydlyme query

[Pleinmont]

Hi, I'm thinking of flushing my TAMD41-P-A with Rydlyme soon as I had a new oil cooler fitted recently and there was quite a lot of scaling inside the old one.
I suspect the heat exchanger, aftercooler, pipes and gear box cooler will be similarly clogged.

My temps are ok but I do see a bit of steam when cruising (I've had a new exhaust elbow this year too so that section is fine).
The process seems pretty straightforward but just had a couple questions.

1 - If the heat exchanger starts leaking after the rydlyme has cleaned out the gunk (as I've read elsewhere) is it a reasonably quick job to replace the seals?
2 - Do engines like mine have any anodes inside? I'm pretty sure they don't as never been changed by the two engineers who have serviced my boat but just checking before I dissolve something without realising.
3 - Do the gearbox oil coolers benefit in the same way as the rest of the engine (mine gets fed raw water direct from the strainer before the impeller).

Anything else to be aware of?
Thanks

 

[QBhoy]

You’ve likely got a pencil anode in the reverse oil cooler or oil cooler somewhere, I’d think. If you have a oil cooler down above where the shaft coupling is…check on the aft end of that for a square looking plug. If you have one, remove it and there should be the remains of or an in tact pencil anode. See diagram

 

[Plum]

Hi, I'm thinking of flushing my TAMD41-P-A with Rydlyme soon as I had a new oil cooler fitted recently and there was quite a lot of scaling inside the old one.
I suspect the heat exchanger, aftercooler, pipes and gear box cooler will be similarly clogged.

My temps are ok but I do see a bit of steam when cruising (I've had a new exhaust elbow this year too so that section is fine).
The process seems pretty straightforward but just had a couple questions.

1 - If the heat exchanger starts leaking after the rydlyme has cleaned out the gunk (as I've read elsewhere) is it a reasonably quick job to replace the seals?
2 - Do engines like mine have any anodes inside? I'm pretty sure they don't as never been changed by the two engineers who have serviced my boat but just checking before I dissolve something without realising.
3 - Do the gearbox oil coolers benefit in the same way as the rest of the engine (mine gets fed raw water direct from the strainer before the impeller).

Anything else to be aware of?
Thanks

I have the same engine/boat as you. There are no anodes in the engine/gearbox raw water cooling system on the "P" series (some of the earlier 41s had anodes I believe) . It is normal on these engines to have a small amount of smoke when running (on mine I get smoke above 15 knots and has been like that for 8 years in my ownership, its not oil). I don't see why you would have a leaky seal after flushing with Rydlyme. I have a video somewhere showing the setup when i flushed mine with Rydlyme. let me see if I can find it....... aha, found it

You need to remove the seawater pump impeller and put the cover plate back on before you start. This is the flushing pump i used: https://www.marinesuperstore.com/marine-pumps/bilge/whale-orca-bilge-pumps?attribute_size=500&attribute_colour=12V&utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=pcn&utm_campaign=MSS&utm_term=ORCA PUMPS

Initially pump through fresh water with the output going overboard so you start with no salt water in there. Then add your 50:50 mix of Rydlyme to the reservoir/bucket and pump. I flushed for nearly 3 hours (no idea if that was excessive but once you have taken the trouble to set it all up why skimp on flushing time?

 

[RobV]

Hi Pleinmont,
I've a pair of TAMD41A's. Both have pencil anodes in the heat exchangers and one engine has an anode in the oil cooler. There's a slightly different oil cooler plate on the other with no anode.
I flushed with Barnacle buster (same idea) 2 seasons ago. I saw no issues with seals afterwards and will do the flush again when I'm lifted in a few weeks.
I disconnected the water intake pipe from the strainer and the outlet into the Elbow, so included the gearbox cooler in the flush.
Also, I flushed in reverse (outlet into the elbow backwards), seemed logical to do it this way but not sure it matters.

 

[Alanij]

I have twin TAMD-41P-As, and can confirm that there are no anodes in the engine. When I first bought my boat I pored over engine drawings and I was unable to find any, and consequently two different marine engineering companies have assured me on this.

The TAMD 41As mentioned by RobV are different.

 

[Pleinmont]

Thanks for the advice fellas, much appreciated!
Good point about flushing out the salt water first Plum and thanks for the link for the pump.

PS - I noticed in your film there's a 12v connection and tap above your fuel tank? Is that for a deckwash or fuel related?
If I connect a pump I'll have to run the wires back to my battery under the stairs inside the cabin.

 

[DavidJ]

If I connect a pump I'll have to run the wires back to my battery under the stairs inside the cabin.

If?
Were you thinking of not having an electric pump?
It‘s normal to let it pump around for a couple of hours, sometimes more.

 

[Pleinmont]

If?
Were you thinking of not having an electric pump?
It‘s normal to let it pump around for a couple of hours, sometimes more.

Ha, sorry that was a typo.
Yes, I would definitely be using a pump to circulate the mixture.

 

[Plum]

PS - I noticed in your film there's a 12v connection and tap above your fuel tank? Is that for a deckwash or fuel related?
If I connect a pump I'll have to run the wires back to my battery under the stairs inside the cabin.

That 12v Anderson connector is useful although primarily fitted so I can plug in a fuel transfer pump that transfers from 20litre containers into the fuel tank via that hozelock fitting and tap. Adding fuel into the normal filler cap at sea is risky as any water running down the side deck pours straight into the open filler pipe.

 

[Croftie]

One point, don't forget to shut off the water blead to the shaft seal if you have one else you may find the rydline lavel in the bucket keeps dropping. Guess how I know.....

 

[Pleinmont]

That 12v Anderson connector is useful although primarily fitted so I can plug in a fuel transfer pump that transfers from 20litre containers into the fuel tank via that hozelock fitting and tap. Adding fuel into the normal filler cap at sea is risky as any water running down the side deck pours straight into the open filler pipe.

Ah I see! That's clever (and multi purpose as demonstrated).
Yes refuelling at sea is not ideal with the deck filler where it is.

 

[Pleinmont]

One point, don't forget to shut off the water blead to the shaft seal if you have one else you may find the rydline lavel in the bucket keeps dropping. Guess how I know.....

! haha
I think my shaft seal is only connected to its own dedicated sea inlet not the raw water engine circuit.

 

[Bandit]

Definitely use a pump and also the supply/return reservoir only fill it half full to allow for frothing at the start but keep the reservoir above engine height so you fill the cooling system completely before it returns to the reservoir.

 

[Pleinmont]

Definitely use a pump and also the supply/return reservoir only fill it half full to allow for frothing at the start but keep the reservoir above engine height so you fill the cooling system completely before it returns to the reservoir.

Agreed - yes was planning to put the container outside higher up on the deck otherwise I'm guaranteed to spill it in the engine compartment.

 

[Pleinmont]

I have the same engine/boat as you. There are no anodes in the engine/gearbox raw water cooling system on the "P" series (some of the earlier 41s had anodes I believe) . It is normal on these engines to have a small amount of smoke when running (on mine I get smoke above 15 knots and has been like that for 8 years in my ownership, its not oil). I don't see why you would have a leaky seal after flushing with Rydlyme. I have a video somewhere showing the setup when i flushed mine with Rydlyme. let me see if I can find it....... aha, found it

You need to remove the seawater pump impeller and put the cover plate back on before you start. This is the flushing pump i used: https://www.marinesuperstore.com/marine-pumps/bilge/whale-orca-bilge-pumps?attribute_size=500&attribute_colour=12V&utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=pcn&utm_campaign=MSS&utm_term=ORCA PUMPS

Initially pump through fresh water with the output going overboard so you start with no salt water in there. Then add your 50:50 mix of Rydlyme to the reservoir/bucket and pump. I flushed for nearly 3 hours (no idea if that was excessive but once you have taken the trouble to set it all up why skimp on flushing time?

PS Plum, as you've got the same set up as me, did you have any issues with connecting those black pipes to the inlet and exhaust elbow pipes - did you get a good seal just inserting and hoseclamping or did you need reducers etc?
Also, being lazy, do you recall what diameter you used - no worries if not, I'll measure up next time down on the boat.

 

[Plum]

PS Plum, as you've got the same set up as me, did you have any issues with connecting those black pipes to the inlet and exhaust elbow pipes - did you get a good seal just inserting and hoseclamping or did you need reducers etc?
Also, being lazy, do you recall what diameter you used - no worries if not, I'll measure up next time down on the boat.

Hi. I used plastic reducers bought on eBay. I used 19mm flexible hose (bought from the local aquatic department of a garden centre, more flexible although less durable than the marine stuff but easier to stow ready for the next flush), to fit the pump, and a 19 to 25mm reducer to connect to the hose that is removed from the exhaust injection then a 19 to 32mm to connect to the hose you remove from the water strainer. All with hose clams, of course, and no leaks. The garden centre may stock the reducers too.

 

[Pleinmont]

That's very helpful, thanks Plum!
Appreciate the advice

 

[Pleinmont]

One last question...
To power the 12v pump, what's an acceptable and safe way to connect the power (pump comes with bare wire ends)?

I've got a 12v lighter socket in the cabin which I assumed would be ok with a suitable connector on the pump wires.
Or crocodile clips to the leisure battery? I'm not planning on leaving the boat unattended whilst doing the job.

If either of these is a fire hazard please let me know a better way of temporarily running a 12v device

 

[DavidJ]

One last question...
To power the 12v pump, what's an acceptable and safe way to connect the power (pump comes with bare wire ends)?

I've got a 12v lighter socket in the cabin which I assumed would be ok with a suitable connector on the pump wires.
Or crocodile clips to the leisure battery? I'm not planning on leaving the boat unattended whilst doing the job.

If either of these is a fire hazard please let me know a better way of temporarily running a 12v device

Croc clips are the way to go. You might find your lighter circuit is fused to a lower ampage than what you are drawing.

 

[Pleinmont]

Croc clips are the way to go. You might find your lighter circuit is fused to a lower ampage than what you are drawing.

Many thanks - yes I spoke to an electrician the other day who advised just to croc clip onto the battery rather than the lighter socket (and wire in a fuse just to be safe).