Switch Panel

[timb]

I have a Sadler 26 without an Anchor or Tricolor light fitted. I would like to fit both of these over the winter but have a small problem.
I currently have a 9 way switch panel with
Bow & Stern
Steaming
Deck Flood
Cabin port
Cabin Starboard
Aux 1 (Tiller pilot)
Aux 2 (Cigarrette Socket for GPS)
Instrument Lights - Compass
Instruments

I do not want to add another switch panel if possible but need to either add 2 switches and fuses or get around it another way.

Any Suggestions gratefully accepted!

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[paulburton44]

if you are adding a tricolor you can add bow , stern and steaming together.
this will leave you 1 spare for the ticolor.
ticolor when sailing and bow,stern and steaming for motoring or motor sailing (turn ticolor off)
i have my anchor on a cigarrette plug !!! us it in aux 2 ????

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[timb]

Is it feasable to combine Cabin Port and Cabin Starboard lights into one switch and fuse? There are 7 cabin lights in total.

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[pappaecho]

I am faced with exactly the same problem. The answer is to add up the total watts of the combined lighting, assuming all are on. Divide by 12 to get the number of amps in the circuit. If the wire diameter is thick enough to safely support the full load, then wire all together, with the appropriate fuse. I have used 1.5 sq mm wire and so the maximum safe is about 7 amps - say 80 watts. I have also found that fluorescent strip lights give considerably more light for the 8 watts these use as compared to 8 watt festoon type fittings. You may be able to reduce the number of lights by switching to fluorescent, without compromising light output

<hr width=100% size=1>Def: Yachting - a way of spending the kids inheritance

 

[timb]

The lights all have an individual pair of wires going to each one, all these wires then terminate on the negative bus bar and the 2 switches.
I would have to put all seven wires to the one switch???

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[Dipper]

Wire the compass and the instruments to the same switch. This will reduce the life of the compass bulb(s) so as a precaution carry a spare one. This is the set up on my boat.

Wire your anchor light to a cigarette lighter plug and use this in the GPS lighter socket. You are unlikely to use both at the same time unless you are using the GPS for anchor watch duties. Alternatively, wire the deck flood into a cigarette lighter plug. You presumably don’t use the deck flood much.

You can get cigarette lighter plug extensions with two or more sockets if you want more than one of these. Useful for charging mobile phones.


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[Talbot]

I have all eight of my cabin lights driven from the same fuse and switch. If you want to be ultra careful take a single line out of the back of the switch and connect it to two in-line fuses and then connect existing Port/Starboard connection to these in-line fuses. This will enable some lights to remain on even after a problem with the lighting circuit.

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[chasroberts]

I had the same problem and got round it by using two way switches. (off when in central position and either up or down to switch different circuits). This actually works quite well as you can rig it so that you can't have incompatable lights on at the same time ie tricolour on one side and steaming light on the other etc etc. Don't seem to have had any probs so far (touch wood) and the cost is minimal.

pm me if you need any more info.

Regards

Chas Roberts

<hr width=100% size=1>Semper in excretum sum. Sole profundum variat!

 

[timb]

Thanks for the replies.
If I have understood the replies to this post here is what I shall attempt

9 Switches as follows...

Cabin Port
Cabin starboard
Bow Stern and Steaming - 3 lights Although Engine will be running
Tricolour - For Sailing only
Anchor
Instruments + Compass Light - With spare compass bulbs
Tiller Pilot
Deck Flood
Auxillary

Does this meet with general agreement of a good set-up?

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[tim3057]

I'm reading this post carefully, as I am about to rewire our Finesse 24. All seems like good advice. Personally I like the idea of a single switch for all lighting, which could perhaps go via thick wire to a junction box somewhere (1 wire off the switch not 7) then fed to each light with thinner wire from there. Good idea to have a Stbd & Port fuse in the box too, so at least one side will work.

I also like the idea of an 'either/or' rocker switch, it should just be a case of looking for one to fit in the Maplins catalogue. The Nich 55 I crewed once had one of these - you're either steaming or sailing.

As for batteries, starter motor & charger.... I'm nowhere near there yet!

<hr width=100% size=1>Wayfarer Woodie done, now I need a new fix..

 

[TheoSr]

Never understood why cabin light switches should be on the switchboard. Cabin lights to be switched in the cabins. Same as you do at home. Probably there are already switches in the cabins, so no use for those on the switchboard.
That would give you two "free" switches.
Keep smiling
Theo.

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[paulburton44]

usually the switch board is also your fuse board....?

no switch board no fuse......

you could wire an in line fuse i suppose....

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[paulburton44]

wiring the instruments and compass means more battery power used ???

the compass light would be on all the time (day and night, motor and sailing ?
)

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[tim3057]

Good point. Are cabin lights always wired through an isolating switch for safety? But then isn't it possible to have a 'main' battery switch that lets you turn EVERYTHING off at the battery when you leave the boat?

<hr width=100% size=1>Wayfarer Woodie done, now I need a new fix..

 

[fireball]

The switch panel for cabin lights is handy - you can turn on several of the lights and when u don't want them on (going out for dinner?) you just turn off at the switch panel, it really isn't nessersary to have port/starboard seperated unless you have dodgy fittings that will short easily. You have to remember this is a 12v DC system and not a 240v ac system - your not likley to electricute yourself!!
Our switch panel isn't perfect, but does accomodate the turning on of circuits grouped in so common devices are wired together - VHF/Wind/Depth/Log. We do have 2 lighting circuits - one does the spots the other does the strips.
The rocker switch for Tricolour/steaming light is a superb solution and means you can never have both on at the same time - ideal!

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[paulburton44]

your right about "electricute yourself" but you could over load a uprotected circuit and the wire will act as a fuse wire i.e. melt.
which could case a fire in the worst case ...!!!

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[silverseal]

I use the deck flood light about once a year. Could the deck flood be twinned with something else, like the anchor light and free up one switch?

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[fireball]

doesn't that depend on how often you use/need your anchor light .. and do you really want the deck light on all night?!

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[FullCircle]

use a sidelight/headlight switch from a car.
Sidelight (pos 1) for compass
Headlight (pos2) for compass and instruments.
You can use 2 position switches a lot on a separate board leading to a single 'master' switch/fuse on the board. Quite a few functions can be twinned like forecabin and main cabin or even navigation table lights. As the units themselves are also switched usually, you can be quite creative.
or I installed a miniature low wattage switch from Maplins (about 99p) next to the rear of the compass where the light in the bowl is. Thus kept it in the loop of instrument lighting.


<hr width=100% size=1>Jeanneau 35 - only 13,272 lbs displacement, not even 6 tons,what a lightweight!!!