Swinging mooring over winter

[LouisBrowne]

I'm thinking of leaving my boat afloat next winter on a swinging mooring.
The issues I have thought of that would need to be addressed are:
1. Insurance
2. Remove sails etc
3. Damp: with no electricity ventilation will be important
4. Run the engine once a month to charge batteries
5. What about salt deposits in the engine raw water cooling system and is frost an issue.

I'd be grateful for advice especially from anyone who regularly keeps their boat afloat and off-grid during the winter.
Many thanks

 

[NormanS]

Instead of running the engine once a month to charge the batteries, consider installing a modest solar panel, with suitable regulator. That will easily keep your batteries topped up, and save engine wear too.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Instead of running the engine once a month to charge the batteries, consider installing a modest solar panel, with suitable regulator. That will easily keep your batteries topped up, and save engine wear too.

I agree with that . I keep my boat afloat all year although not an a swing mooring.

have solar panels keeping my domestic and engine battery charged up with solar all year

I have doubled my mooring lines just in case of any chafe

 

[Sandy]

Do you not plan on going sailing?

 

[srm]

What's the problem? other than insurance that is. I kept a boat on a swinging mooring for around half a dozen winters in Shetland. Would lift out some winters and stay afloat for others. My main concern then was ice! not the heavy sea ice but in sheltered bays fresh water and still cold high pressure conditions could form a thin sheet that would scour the waterline when it broke up and was driven by the wind.

You have covered the main points in the first post.

Most important is to ensure your mooring system is sufficient to handle both storm winds and a storm surge with sea level well above HAT. Reduce windage by removing all canvas etc. Drain all fresh water systems and have antifreeze/anti-corrosion fluid in the engine fresh water cooling. Ventilation is easier to maintain as the boat will be head to wind most of the time - avoid mooring in areas with a tidal stream as that could develop steep seas in storm conditions. The hull below the waterline will be at around sea temperature, which is often warmer than the air temperature in the UK so freezing may not be as great a risk as it would be ashore.

For extra security I always used chain, one size larger than the main anchor chain, from mooring to the boat. No worry about chafe, but you need the bow roller, foredeck and securing points set up for it. Some people worry about rust stains and use rope, but that should give them sleepless nights when its seriously windy. I also had a second, back up, attachment from mooring riser to boat, just in case, though it was never needed.

 

[vyv_cox]

In an exposed tidal location chain wear can be a considerable problem. I saw a small motorboat moored at the north end of Menai Strait blown ashore when its 5/8" chain wore right through over one winter.

 

[stranded]

We stay on a swinging mooring through the winter. 44ft, 14t, 28mm octoplait pulled tight - slightly lifting buoy out of the water - as main strop - gentler and quieter. 10mm chain as backup. Solar keeps batteries topped up and will mostly recharge in a day or two after a night on board South west England so freezing not really a concern. Insurer is happy - but they will doubtless, and understandably, refuse to pay after the fact if you have done something dumb.

 

[Spanjaard]

The moorings may have to be serviced once a year and insurance may not cover that should it break the mooring chain.

Just before I remove my boat last December, I noticed the mooring buoy have moved out of line respect the others by about 3m.

Glad I got her on dry, Specially when last week we reached gusts of up to 70mph on the Crouch

 

[billyfish]

I leave my 28 footer on a mooring. Why pay for a mooring then pay again for a car park.

 

[Spanjaard]

I leave my 28 footer on a mooring. Why pay for a mooring then pay again for a car park.

All is dependant on risk. I thought same as you. But the owner of the moorings insisted on getting the moorings serviced otherwise their insurance would not cover me, should my mooring broke away after its due service expiry date.

If you are not exposed to tide currents the risk is less as your boat only goes up and down with the tide. But if the mooring is exposed to currents, the mooring itself is subject to stress, therefore it should be inspected/service at least yearly.

 

[billyfish]

Mine is serviced regularly

 

[Stemar]

1. Insurance - If your current insurer won't cover you in commission all year round, find on that will.
2. Remove sails etc - yes, unless you're tempted by the idea of cup-a-soup sailing. If you do leave them on, furl the genny tightly and go two or three turns further to wind the sheets round it, then make off tightly. Check the state of the furling line too, and make sure it's properly cleated off.
3. Damp - Take cushions and curtains home, leave the fridge off, with the door fixed ajar and, yes, ventilate. Solar ventilators don't seem to be a lot of good at the best of times, they'll do next to nothing in winter.
4. Run the engine once a month to charge batteries - I'm with Roger - get solar, but don't just get enough to keep up with battery self-discharge, get as much as you can fit and afford. You'll thank me next year in that quiet anchorage. If you do run the engine go for a chug round the bay to get it thoroughly warmed up, which will also be good for chasing damp out of the electrical system.
5. What about salt deposits in the engine raw water cooling system and is frost an issue. Seawater freezes at about -1.8C Your boat will be sitting in water at 6-7 C, so your systems will be at much less risk of freezing than on the hard. I never worried about it and haven't had a problem in 20 years. That's in the Solent, In the Baltic it might be different, but I doubt many boats spend the winter on a mooring there
Bonus extra:
6. Have a good look at the state of your mooring. Chains wear surprisingly quickly, so look for wear where the links touch each other. Any significant reduction in thickness and the I wouldn't be happy leaving the boat. Lift the buoy and check as many links as you can see, plus the swivel. If it looks like this, your boat won't be there in spring

Yes, I've seen chain like that on a mooring! Actually, if your chain looks like that, it's time to change mooring companies.

 

[LittleSister]

Not all mooring locations are equal, so choose one that is well sheltered. (Even insurers who will cover winter mornings may exclude some.)

Note also that some clubs and other mooring providers limit their use to e.g. April to October. Check before you commit yourself.

 

[johnalison]

There is no point in running the engine unless you are going to use the boat. I often keep my boat in the water at the marina but winterise the engine. With the cooling system protected and fresh oil throughout, this is better than doing nothing.

 

[Minerva]

As a point of note, my mooring servicing provider offer to drop moorings in the Autumn and lift them in the spring. However if you wish, you can have your serviced Spring & Autumn - if your leaving your boat in over the winter, that extra Autumn service may provide good peace of mind!

 

[vyv_cox]

There is no point in running the engine unless you are going to use the boat. I often keep my boat in the water at the marina but winterise the engine. With the cooling system protected and fresh oil throughout, this is better than doing nothing.

Totally agree. My boat is left in Greece all winter, six months or so without being touched. It has never failed to start in spring. Due to covid it went three years without running, batteries totally disconnected showed12.4 volts, engine started in about 10 seconds.

 

[Mudisox]

All year round for me on the Dart,who provide the mooring and annually service them. They also keep a look out through their river officers, and check if strong winds etc are forecast.
Bridle is renewed in Autumn with 12mm octoplait and backed up with looser,10mm chain to central cleat forward.
Luckily I also have a friendly"live aboard" just above me, so theft etc is covered.
I do run the engine when I am down staying overnight, [about once a month] but it allows the heater to run also, much needed last weekend.
Insurer is quite happy with 12 months in the water.

 

[B27]

Insurers have lists of locations they will or won't cover, and it may vary with type of boat.
It's not just wind and waves from storms, some rivers just get too many trees and logs hitting the moorings at 6 knots!

I'm in all year, the next mooring along is a dory with an outboard, their insurance is Apr-Oct.
I run my engine under load every few weeks, get it properly to running temperature.
I don't like to 'winterise' the engine on a river mooring in case I had to move at sort notice.

 

[LouisBrowne]

Thanks very much for the helpful suggestions / advice.
With regard to the engine some of you are advocating running under load every so often while others suggest leave well alone. If the engine is to be left alone does the raw water cooling system need to be flushed through with a couple of buckets of fresh water / antifreeze solution when the boat is laid up? is this what Johnalison means by protecting the cooling system or is he referring to antifreeze in the fresh water cooling circuit?

 

[Tranona]

Running the engine under load is not really possible on a swinging mooring and under no load not desirable, So best to leave it alone. No need to do anything about the raw water system as it won't freeze. Some people advocate changing the oil before winter but not sure it really makes any difference.