Swan neck - through deck electrical

Plumber's mait?

Doesn't harden or shrink, is waterproof, non sticky and can easily be removed and reused.
 
I sealed an old cable gland hole with Sugru. Worked a treat, clean, easy to use, easy to install. It sets much harder than you would expect. Easy to remove or even trim once set.
 
Here's a question related to Swan Necks that I think not only myself may like answer for :

My cable entry was made to port side of mast base where the base has an angled rise of approx 45 deg + from horizontal .. maybe mre. If a Swan Neck is is fitted to that hole already existing - would the angle compromise the neck form of the item ...

Swan neck angle.jpg
 
dunedin said:
That’s why I suggested Sugru in post #2. Buy some and try it
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Thank you. My only concern would be how easy it would be to remove in the future. The description states "In 12–24 hours, it turns into a strong and durable silicone rubber that stays stuck."
It seems to me that high density foam might be the best way ahead.
 
CT846 said:
Thank you. My only concern would be how easy it would be to remove in the future. The description states "In 12–24 hours, it turns into a strong and durable silicone rubber that stays stuck."
It seems to me that high density foam might be the best way ahead.
Click to expand...

That was my reading of Sugru as well ...

As I see it - whatever used has only to stop the water 'flowing' in .. so any cloth / foam sponge etc should be enough ?
 
CT846 said:
The electrical connections from my mast (wind instrument, VHF aerial, lights) are all badly corroded where they connect to through-deck plugs & sockets. I'm considering switching to a swan neck fitting to do away with exposed connectors so that I can run all of the cables through the one port & connect them inboard.
I've seen a few suggestions for waterproofing the end of the swan neck ranging from sponge to plasticine. Any good solutions to stopping breaking wave / moisture ingress and has anyone experienced any electrical interference by running multiple cables through the one port?
Click to expand...

You have this back to front, instead of thinking about sealing a swan neck, think about the best type of transit. I use the Stainless Steel Deck Cable Port, as per the link. This is a great bit of kit, completed water proof, snag free, can be stood on, and takes many cables through a large hole in the middle. All my cables, including a VHF cable and plug, terminate under the deck, above the head lining in a dry, warm environment. The cables can enter from each side, where there are two foam strips to keep the bugs out and provide a water resistant baffle. The centre, inside is like a dorado box, with a high side around the hole that the cables go through. When I need to remove the mast, undo the connectors below the deck, unscrew the VHF connector be.ow deck, unscrew the lid on the cable port and they all come out easily, with no hassle or strain. I sail in all sorts of weather and have shipped a fair amount of water over my deck, bone dry, over 10 years now in use. All the old deck glands around the mast were removed and the holes filled with Epoxy.

https://www.svb24.com/en/stainless-steel-deck-cable-port.html

Honestly, worth every penny and superior to a swan neck in every way, and beats deck glands hands down. Thoroughly recommended. My next project will be solar panels on the quarter and I will replace a couple of crappy deck glands on the stern deck with the Stainless Steel Deck Cable Port to take the solar panel wires and others below deck. Very neat.
 
Refueler said:
Here's a question related to Swan Necks that I think not only myself may like answer for :

My cable entry was made to port side of mast base where the base has an angled rise of approx 45 deg + from horizontal .. maybe mre. If a Swan Neck is is fitted to that hole already existing - would the angle compromise the neck form of the item ...

View attachment 202479
Click to expand...
It'll still work, but its effective height is reduced, making it not so good. Is there any reason why the bottom of the tube has to be perpendicular to the angled base?
 
Refueler said:
https://www.svb24.com/en/stainless-steel-deck-cable-port.html

How will this fare with the angled base I have .. see my previous post #23 .....

It would be difficult to move to a ;evel horizontal location due to cockpit led lines etc. and then still be able to connect cables ...
Click to expand...

You place it on the deck, no need for it to be on the mast base, then run the cables in a neat run from the mast outlet to the deck. My installation is at the back of the mast, with cables from each side of the mast looping round and into the transit. In your case, not knowing your boat, in front of the mast might be an option. Equally, your boat may be unsuitable for this type of transit.
 
RunAgroundHard said:
You place it on the deck, no need for it to be on the mast base, then run the cables in a neat run from the mast outlet to the deck. My installation is at the back of the mast, with cables from each side of the mast looping round and into the transit. In your case, not knowing your boat, in front of the mast might be an option. Equally, your boat may be unsuitable for this type of transit.
Click to expand...
I have self tacker right next to mast front and also solar panel ...

I will measure up as I intend to increase the size of the panel - it may work to have solar cable go in that fitting as well .. at present its passing through deck in front of self tacker .. silicon sealed.
 
Refueler said:
Here's a question related to Swan Necks that I think not only myself may like answer for :

My cable entry was made to port side of mast base where the base has an angled rise of approx 45 deg + from horizontal .. maybe mre. If a Swan Neck is is fitted to that hole already existing - would the angle compromise the neck form of the item ...

View attachment 202479
Click to expand...
The stainless steel cable port/dorade box would not work well mounted at 45°. There is insufficient height to make up for the angled orientation.


A swan neck would still work but with decreased effective height. The concern would be on starboard tack where the 45° mounting orientation would be exacerbated by the heel angle rendering the height marginal unless it was a tall swan neck (most of the commercial offerings are small).
 
RunAgroundHard said:
You have this back to front, instead of thinking about sealing a swan neck, think about the best type of transit. I use the Stainless Steel Deck Cable Port, as per the link. This is a great bit of kit, completed water proof, snag free, can be stood on, and takes many cables through a large hole in the middle. All my cables, including a VHF cable and plug, terminate under the deck, above the head lining in a dry, warm environment. The cables can enter from each side, where there are two foam strips to keep the bugs out and provide a water resistant baffle. The centre, inside is like a dorado box, with a high side around the hole that the cables go through. When I need to remove the mast, undo the connectors below the deck, unscrew the VHF connector be.ow deck, unscrew the lid on the cable port and they all come out easily, with no hassle or strain. I sail in all sorts of weather and have shipped a fair amount of water over my deck, bone dry, over 10 years now in use. All the old deck glands around the mast were removed and the holes filled with Epoxy.

https://www.svb24.com/en/stainless-steel-deck-cable-port.html

Honestly, worth every penny and superior to a swan neck in every way, and beats deck glands hands down. Thoroughly recommended. My next project will be solar panels on the quarter and I will replace a couple of crappy deck glands on the stern deck with the Stainless Steel Deck Cable Port to take the solar panel wires and others below deck. Very neat.
Click to expand...
Despite what the advert says,not a new design,but it is a very good one.

I had all sorts of drips at the mast Base, my wife complained. It had to be sorted.

This did it. Makes it very easy to connect everything below deck where water has no business interfering.

Also, there's very little for the job sheets to catch on,unlike a swaneck (especially one angled at 45 degrees).

A BIG +1 from me. Might fit one on my new boat too

If it was at 45 degrees I'd fit a hardwood wedge beneath it so that the box was flat.
 
I have used one for 15 years. No problem. Other one 10 years no problem.

Come back Salty John. You had items no one else in Uk had.
 
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