Fletcher Zingaro?I couldn't possibly comment....
SometimesClose, in that it floats!
Mmm seems your buying it we are fixing it you are profiteering from it....what's in it for us?Does anyone have experience of flushing a salt water soaked starter motor?
Or is a replacement required?
Doesn't matter if it's tinned or not, you'll never get the salt out and tinning won't protect it under these circumstances.I've been along to the slipway on the Hamble where the boat will be launched.
Friday is just off a neap so I'm hoping there's enough water to launch.
I'll be using my AMT 200 to take the " project" boat up to a mooring. Then a few days later it will be hauled out and propped on a hard standing for me to work on.
The first priority is an internal cabin wash down with freshwater.
I will take the panel covering instruments and chart plotter off and try to see where the high tide mark is. Below that I'll remove and refit any connectors after a wd40 and contact cleaner spray.
I'm sure saltwater has wicked along the cables , I'm crossing fingers the cables were tinned ..
Ultimately I may need to rewire the boat.
Doesn't matter if it's tinned or not, you'll never get the salt out and tinning won't protect it under these circumstances.
Besides, i have never, ever, seen a production boat fully wired with tinned cable.
I would do that, replace anything that's been submerged.In that case I'd better buy a big roll of tinned cable and incentivise my brother to help me re wire the boat.
I can get most kit wired up but in not nearly as neat as him...
I would do that, replace anything that's been submerged.
It was shocking how much the wiring deteriorated in a few months on the boat i mentioned in post #8
Popcorn?Mmm seems your buying it we are fixing it you are profiteering from it....what's in it for us?![]()
The other thing that happened on my Varne was that water got underneath tabbing and into stringers where people had drilled into them and at ends where they hadn't been sealed properly. One reason i sold it was that it was obvious bulkheads and stringers would rot over time as you could never dry that out.I would do that, replace anything that's been submerged.
It was shocking how much the wiring deteriorated in a few months on the boat i mentioned in post #8
The only way I'd do this is to gut it and start again. Everything electric that's been underwater will almost certainly be be shot - if not in 6 months, then in 2 years! As pointed out elsewhere this includes the wiring. As for the engines, first aid needed to be applied as soon as removed from the water as any exposed metal (external or internal) will start rusting as soon as it's in contact with air - bores, pistons, valves... Any more than a few hours without and it will be corroding - full strip and rebuild at that point! Look forward to the boat salvage thread however!![]()
I don't know how accessible the whole loom is but if you can obtain or draw up a wiring diagram, it may be more cost effective to have a custom loom made up. You can also then add new accessory circuits etc.
It's quite common to have this done in the classic car world, for example - Autosparks Bespoke Wiring
Interior lightsI guess there can't be more than 15-20 circuits on board.
Bilge
Nav lights
Stern light
Macerator
Black water pump
Horn
Wipers?
Fridge
Water pump
Chart plotter
Fuel gauge
Rev counter
Trim gauge
Volt meter
Any obvious ones I've missed?
I'll draw up a to do list but cabin dehumidifier and get the engine turned over are priorities.
Don’t rip out the old wires….use them as guides to pull the new wires through