Rum_Pirate
Well-known member
for a young relative.
This can be made in two weekends including painting two coats (I used regular ply and oil paint).
Yellow boat is made from one sheet of plywood.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/herbert.mcleod/skiff.htm
plans:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/herbert.mcleod/plans.htm
Above sites have helpful pictures
Instructions
Materials:
1) One sheet 4x8 1/4" plywood
2) 2"x4" -16" scrap for stem (make the stem long and trim it to size after you have attached the sides and gunwales)
3) 1"x2" - eight 8' for frame, transom, chines and gunwales and full-length skeg
4) 2"x2" - two 6" these are mounted on the outside of the gunwale and with an appropriate sized hole through them hold the oar horns. (see the picture of the gray OSS)
5) Glue; tube of polyurethane construction adhesive (PL premium), plastic resin glue (Weldwood) or epoxy
6) Screws and/or nails plus washers and screws (where needed to attach chines and gunwales)
7) Scrap 1'x4' 1/4 ply for seat
8) 1'x 4'x 1 1/2 " bead board (closed cell plastic foam insulation board) for under seat for flotation
9) Latex primer and paint
10) Oarlocks
Assembly:
1) Cut 9" strip off each side of he sheet of plywood for sides
2) Make stem cut bevels at 33 degrees
3) Attach sides to stem:
4) Build transom and frame: (you will round off the top of the transom after you have attached the sides and gunwales)
5) Attach sides to frame and transom:
Test fitting first is a good plan:
6) Cut 1x2 as shown on drawings and install chine logs. (If you have splitting problems thin them down an eighth of an inch.) Use washers on your screws on the ends and at the main frame to stop splitting as this is about as much of a bend as you can make in a stick of wood without steaming it.
7) Attach bottom and trim.
8) Shape and attach gunwales. Use washers on your screws on the ends and at the main frame to stop splitting. Now you and round off the top of the gunwales. Now glue and screw the 6" 2x2 blocks to the gunwales for later attachment of your oarlocks. These blocks should be attached so that the centre of the oar pin will be 20 to 22 inches forward of the transom.
9) Attach a 1x2 lengthwise to outside of the bottom to make as a shallow skeg or attach a deeper fin type skeg as drawn on the plans. Both types of skegs seem to work equally well but the 1x2 full-length skeg allows one to place screws through the plywood and bead board seat to hold it to the bottom.
9) Cut bead board and paint two coats of latex primer on all sides let dry. This will stop it from melting if it comes in contact with oil or gasoline. Next glue the bead board to bottom on inside of your hull. Then cover the bead board with the 1/4-inch plywood seat and screw through the seat and bead board into the bottom and the skeg to attach.
10) Make oars as drawn.
11) Paint everything (bright colours are great).
12) Fasten hardware (oarlocks) and go boating
This can be made in two weekends including painting two coats (I used regular ply and oil paint).
Yellow boat is made from one sheet of plywood.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/herbert.mcleod/skiff.htm
plans:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/herbert.mcleod/plans.htm
Above sites have helpful pictures
Instructions
Materials:
1) One sheet 4x8 1/4" plywood
2) 2"x4" -16" scrap for stem (make the stem long and trim it to size after you have attached the sides and gunwales)
3) 1"x2" - eight 8' for frame, transom, chines and gunwales and full-length skeg
4) 2"x2" - two 6" these are mounted on the outside of the gunwale and with an appropriate sized hole through them hold the oar horns. (see the picture of the gray OSS)
5) Glue; tube of polyurethane construction adhesive (PL premium), plastic resin glue (Weldwood) or epoxy
6) Screws and/or nails plus washers and screws (where needed to attach chines and gunwales)
7) Scrap 1'x4' 1/4 ply for seat
8) 1'x 4'x 1 1/2 " bead board (closed cell plastic foam insulation board) for under seat for flotation
9) Latex primer and paint
10) Oarlocks
Assembly:
1) Cut 9" strip off each side of he sheet of plywood for sides
2) Make stem cut bevels at 33 degrees
3) Attach sides to stem:
4) Build transom and frame: (you will round off the top of the transom after you have attached the sides and gunwales)
5) Attach sides to frame and transom:
Test fitting first is a good plan:
6) Cut 1x2 as shown on drawings and install chine logs. (If you have splitting problems thin them down an eighth of an inch.) Use washers on your screws on the ends and at the main frame to stop splitting as this is about as much of a bend as you can make in a stick of wood without steaming it.
7) Attach bottom and trim.
8) Shape and attach gunwales. Use washers on your screws on the ends and at the main frame to stop splitting. Now you and round off the top of the gunwales. Now glue and screw the 6" 2x2 blocks to the gunwales for later attachment of your oarlocks. These blocks should be attached so that the centre of the oar pin will be 20 to 22 inches forward of the transom.
9) Attach a 1x2 lengthwise to outside of the bottom to make as a shallow skeg or attach a deeper fin type skeg as drawn on the plans. Both types of skegs seem to work equally well but the 1x2 full-length skeg allows one to place screws through the plywood and bead board seat to hold it to the bottom.
9) Cut bead board and paint two coats of latex primer on all sides let dry. This will stop it from melting if it comes in contact with oil or gasoline. Next glue the bead board to bottom on inside of your hull. Then cover the bead board with the 1/4-inch plywood seat and screw through the seat and bead board into the bottom and the skeg to attach.
10) Make oars as drawn.
11) Paint everything (bright colours are great).
12) Fasten hardware (oarlocks) and go boating
