Storm boards - how to fix

[StevenJMorgan]

I want to make some storm boards to cover my lewmar windows in the coach roof. I guess making them is easy - make template and cut ply to fit but how on earth do I then fix them to the coachroof. I'm thinking that any method of fixing must be quick easy and not too fiddly and not permanently on the boat - but I'm drawing blanks so far. What does everyone else do?

 

[Salty John]

Some have thumb screws which fit into threaded inserts set into the cabin sides at the four corners of the ports. Other systems I've seen involve grooved battens into which the storm shutters slide. These are located either above and below the ports, running horizontally fore and aft, or on either side of each port vertically. The battens, wood or aluminium extrusions, remain attached to the boat, of course. This will probably spark huge controversy, but I think that heavy gauge perspex or lexan ports, properly fitted as they are on good quality boats, are safe without additional shutters. Light gauge ports set in rubber extrusions are not and should have shutters.

 

[2Tizwoz]

Crazed acrylic is weaker than that which has not been exposed to sunlight. The craze cracks are a potential seat of further cracks so that the likelihood of failure is increased beyond the loss of strength which results from the surface crazing itself.

That said 10mm acrylic is used in arenas and stands up to ice hockey pucks.

 

[webcraft]

We are thinking of fitting storm boards to our Albin Vega as the windows are set in rubber inserts and are a known weakness in a knockdown/breaking wave situation.

The threaded insets/thumbscrews option sounds easiest, although you could just be creating four more potential leaks.

If you have a long window in a rubber extrusion do you think securing the storm board just at four corners is sufficient?

Is perspex suitable instad of plywood? It lets a lot more light through!

- Nick

 

[Salty John]

As long as the storm board overlaps the opening of the window it is protecting, the screws or other support system only need to locate the board in place. Storm boards often have a slot, perhaps 6" x 3", to let in light.

 

[webcraft]

You don't rate perspex as a suitable material then?

- Nick

 

[2Tizwoz]

Perspex/acrylic seems to me the best material for boat windows but does suffer from crazing over time. However that shortcoming is visible and obvious. A difficulty which I have experienced is in colour matching old and replacement acrylic as each manufacturer appears to have their own range.

I recall viewing a Beneteau a few years ago which had a one piece acrylic sliding hatch which looked attractive and transmitted light well into the saloon. It was nicely designed without handles just a chamfered slot routered in to form the handle.

There have been multiple discussions around the area of action to be taken following catastrophic failure leading to a hole in the boat and what action is to follow. My own plan has always been to take measures beforehand to remove the likelihood of failure.

Is there any reason why a hatch or window should fail before the rest of the structure ?

 

[Salty John]

Yes, I think it is a good material for the job. If the cost isn't an issue then perpex is a good choice. As you say, it lets in light. It would also be low maintenance.