storing a trailer

OceanSprint

OceanSprint

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My Jag 24 came with a 4 wheeled, braked, galvanised trailer. I am putting it in long term storage at a caravan store area, as the boat is in the water for the conceivable future. What should I do to store the trailer?

Take the wheels off?

Cover it up with a tarpaulin?

Or just leave it as it is?

Thanks.
 
At the very least put the axle on stands or wood blocks to take the load off the tyres and suspension. Do not put the handbrake on.

The problem with removing the wheels is the insurance. My insurers told me that the wheels should be on with an approved lock.
 
Nigel_Ward said:
At the very least put the axle on stands or wood blocks to take the load off the tyres and suspension. Do not put the handbrake on.
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Being picky, putting the axles on stands doesn't unload the suspension. For an empty trailer I probably wouldn't bother, though, as the loads on the tyres will be very light. Worth doing if there is any doubt about their holding pressure.
 
If it's under cover (unlikely) do nothing. If outside cover the tyres to prevent uv damage. I would also get a hitch lock as trailers are expensive as I've just discovered.
 
I agree. Jack it up to take the weight off the tyres and suspension. Except that if they are not good brand named tyres you will probably find that they are unserviceable able a few years of non use. I have to buy all new cheap brand tyres every time I use my trailer. Good brand named tyres on the car last much longer.

If its been immersed wash out all the salt and clean and re-grease the bearings.

Grease all moving parts of the braking system, jockey wheel and adjustable supports

Leave the hand brake off as advised.

You dont say if its painted or galvanised. If galvanised it should not be necessary to cover it. If painted touch up where necessary, consider covering it if possible but good covers are expensive and cheap solutions have short lives.
 
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Trailer supported on blocks of wood, on the chassis itself; wheels off and stored undercover, handbrake off. My trailer has a winch so I put a cover over that to keep UV off the strop.

Shame I sold the boat that went on the trailer!
 
I would also ( I do this with any trailers I have) make sure you turn the hubs every couple of months. This spreads the grease on the rollers and track and can avoid the corrosion that starts and leads to ridged tracks. If the trailer is on it's wheels I just move it a couple of wheel revolutions and then back. If you mark the tyre with chalk you can make sure it's not back in the original position.


Corroded bearings through lack of movement.


bearing1.jpg
 
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I would jack it up with blocks under the chassis it certainly appears to me to take the weight of the suspension as well as the tyres. If you are leaving it in a storage facility I would seriously consider taking the wheels off and home or at least fit locking nuts. Heavy chain on trailer round something, hitch lock and wheel locks. 4 x wheels and tyres 》 £360 or so to replace.

Trailer for scrap even~ £ ss.

Also put identifyng marks, post code, etc on it.
 
One of the tricks I do is remove the towing socket from the front of the draw bar. Then put a black bag over where the socket was so if anyone tries to steal it they cant take it on the first attempt as they wont know it has not got a socket. When I sold horse trailers I would tell customers to buy a wheel clamp, not that it will stop the trailer being stolen but it will comply with your insurance requirements.
Another thing I did (and its really easy) on one axle I had a wheel clamp on the other side by taking the grease cap off you can undo the nut which holds the brake drum on and pull the hub off. putting a black bag over the exposed brake linings, then if anyone is going to try and take your trailer they are going to have a problem.
 
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I know this is not what you asked but have you thought of selling the trailer? They fetch good money and if as you say it would be stored for the long term then you would save on storage fees and the inevitable costs of deterioration.
 
Lakesailor said:
I would also ( I do this with any trailers I have) make sure you turn the hubs every couple of months. This spreads the grease on the rollers and track and can avoid the corrosion that starts and leads to ridged tracks. If the trailer is on it's wheels I just move it a couple of wheel revolutions and then back. If you mark the tyre with chalk you can make sure it's not back in the original position.
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Spot on there. In fact probably worth hitching it up and taking it for a short outing every so often.

I replaced my bearings after the last time I used the trailer and i know for a fact that the new ones are knackered without ever having been used...... and they are angular contact ball races that cost an arm and a leg , even from a bearing stockist.

Thanks to you though I do now know that they can be replaced with roller bearings which should be better and a lot less expensive.
 
VicS said:
Spot on there. In fact probably worth hitching it up and taking it for a short outing every so often.

I replaced my bearings after the last time I used the trailer and i know for a fact that the new ones are knackered without ever having been used...... and they are angular contact ball races that cost an arm and a leg , even from a bearing stockist.

Thanks to you though I do now know that they can be replaced with roller bearings which should be better and a lot less expensive.
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Does your trailer have Mini hubs, then? As I recall, Cooper bearings cost about the same and have rollers rather than balls.
 
JumbleDuck said:
Does your trailer have Mini hubs, then? As I recall, Cooper bearings cost about the same and have rollers rather than balls.
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Yes thats right. Lakey put me on to the idea of replacing them with Cooper bearings, which I can get on line at a fraction of what i paid a bearing stockist for the
14LJT 7/8
 
Jim@sea said:
One of the tricks I do is remove the towing socket from the front of the draw bar. Then put a black bag over where the socket was so if anyone tries to steal it they cant take it on the first attempt as they wont know it has not got a socket.
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My understanding is that professional trailer-stealing pikeys carry a spare hitch as a matter of course. Slightly less-professional ones just put a chain round the drawbar and hang it off the back of a pickup that way.

Removing the hub is a bit more imaginative though :encouragement:

Pete
 
Many thanks for all replies, and yes I have thought of selling it,but I suppose I might just need it one day! But will think seriously about that.
 
Others have mentioned that it depends whether it is painted or galvanized, but you also don't say where it is to be stored. If at home or some other relatively secure location it will be different from a club yard, which is a magnet to the local scrotes.

Most trailers nowadays seem to use tortional rubber suspension units (Indespension). As these are rated for use when loaded with a tonne or more of boat, I wouldn't worry about the loading when empty, but the wheels would be better at home in the shed and a pair of winter wheels fitted to the trailer. Of course, this doesn't allow the bearings to be routinely exercised, but it sure stops the thieves in their tracks.

Rob.
 
Thanks again, but people must not be reading my post right. I did say:

"4 wheeled, braked, galvanised trailer. I am putting it in long term storage at a caravan store area"

i.e. it is galvanised, not painted.

and it will be in a secure caravan storage area, outside, but with high fence, security gates etc, so I am actually not at all worried about theft - just decay.

Thanks anyway.
 
OceanSprint said:
Thanks again, but people must not be reading my post right. I did say:

"4 wheeled, braked, galvanised trailer. I am putting it in long term storage at a caravan store area"


Thanks anyway.
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Sorry I missed that .
My feet are getting bad. You really must learn to phrase posts more clearly for the benefit of the hard of hearing.
 
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