Babylon
Well-Known Member
I need to stitch loops in the ends of thick 25mm wide webbing jackstays. What sort of thread should I use? And can I do this by hand or is a sewing-machine needed?
Thx
Thx
Stitching webbing jackstays - what thread?
- Thread starter Babylon
- Start date
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
When I've done this in the past, I've always got a sailmaker to do it - after all its my crew or my life on the line if the thing is used in anger.
I am not sure that I'd stitch such a thing by hand? It'll only cost a very few pounds to get a sailmaker to stitch the loops for you - or Jimmy Green used to offer a webbing jackstay making service.
seanfoster
Well-Known Member
You need to use a thread that is not susceptible to UV.
Point north do a range of threads and needles to suit http://www.profabrics.co.uk/
They are very helpful and can supply the webbing too (again you need one that won't degrade in sunlight).
It really isn't rocket science stitching it with a sewing machine, I would loop the webbing back on itself and stitch over an area about 100mm long, use a zig zag pattern on a narrow setting.
Point north do a range of threads and needles to suit http://www.profabrics.co.uk/
They are very helpful and can supply the webbing too (again you need one that won't degrade in sunlight).
It really isn't rocket science stitching it with a sewing machine, I would loop the webbing back on itself and stitch over an area about 100mm long, use a zig zag pattern on a narrow setting.
seumask
Well-Known Member
Our jack stays have a plastic sheath over the stiched sections to protect against UV I presume. They came from C J Marine.
doug748
Well-Known Member
The webbing sews quite well on a decent home machine. I use standard V69 Dacron and keep an eye on it / re do if it starts to look shabby. I also finish the edge with hand stitching for peace of mind
KellysEye
Well-Known Member
Dabond UV resistant thread. We use a sewing machine.
PeterGibbs
Well-Known Member
Using a machine is best - greater density of stitches. But watch out what needle you use - you need a leather or denim compatible machine needle, but check that the thread you intend using will pass therough the eye: if too tight it will strip the thread and fail.
Others have posted ideas on thread - synthetic not cotton - and UV resistant if poss.
Fix a D ring in each end to take the fraying motion when installed.
You should not leave webbing on deck all season - the whole thing will stiffen and decay in the light. Guaranteed. Remove it when not needed - and make the installation easy so this job does not get overlooked in the flight for the road home on Sunday eve!
PWG
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
Why do you have to have a stitched loop? I have knotted loops in one end of mine as I wouldn't like to trust my stitching.
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sarabande
Well-Known Member
Commercial manufacturers have a clearly defined pattern of stitches - but this is irrelevant if DIY.
If you are using a machine, then oversew / cut the thread / restart in several places, to avoid any chance of an end of the thread pulling loose and unravelling all the stitching.
Yes, any bit of cloth wrapped round to keep incident UV off the end would be good, too.
EN 1095 is the appropriate standard, and gives stitching patterns.
I'd also use a thread of a different colour from the webbing, to make it easy to check.
If you are using a machine, then oversew / cut the thread / restart in several places, to avoid any chance of an end of the thread pulling loose and unravelling all the stitching.
Yes, any bit of cloth wrapped round to keep incident UV off the end would be good, too.
EN 1095 is the appropriate standard, and gives stitching patterns.
I'd also use a thread of a different colour from the webbing, to make it easy to check.
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Babylon
Well-Known Member
If you want a job done properly, do it yourself...
The sad truth is that I had already got a so-called sailmaker (a cretin with a sewing-machine it turned out) to stitch the loop for me. He used the same colour thread as the webbing so I couldn't see it clearly. When I examined it carefully with a task-light, it turned out that he'd only done a couple of rough Z-stitches at one end of the loop and couple more at the other end, with a single long meandering diagonal stitching between the two! Don't even know if he thread is UV-resistant or plain old cotton. Feckin' idiot!
Thanks for all the advice people. I'm going to buy proper UV-resistant thread in a different colour and copy the stitching pattern on my old Plastimo jackstays, also cover the loop as suggested with a UV-guard.
BTW the looped ends are for S/S shackles to attach to the forward U-bolts; the aft ends get secured by threading the webbing through Ankarolina buckles (which are easy to attach to their U-bolts without unthreading).
Removing the jackstays before leaving the boat is already on my checklist.
The sad truth is that I had already got a so-called sailmaker (a cretin with a sewing-machine it turned out) to stitch the loop for me. He used the same colour thread as the webbing so I couldn't see it clearly. When I examined it carefully with a task-light, it turned out that he'd only done a couple of rough Z-stitches at one end of the loop and couple more at the other end, with a single long meandering diagonal stitching between the two! Don't even know if he thread is UV-resistant or plain old cotton. Feckin' idiot!
Thanks for all the advice people. I'm going to buy proper UV-resistant thread in a different colour and copy the stitching pattern on my old Plastimo jackstays, also cover the loop as suggested with a UV-guard.
BTW the looped ends are for S/S shackles to attach to the forward U-bolts; the aft ends get secured by threading the webbing through Ankarolina buckles (which are easy to attach to their U-bolts without unthreading).
Removing the jackstays before leaving the boat is already on my checklist.
Huttoft
Well-Known Member
Dabond V92 polyester thread is reputedly the best. Otherwise use "bonded polyester". Use needles such as Schmetz size 20 or 22.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Waxed sailmakers thread as used for stitching canvas etc.
The other material is carpet thread ... but best pull through a wax block before use.
I see people quote synthetic threads ... be careful about this as many are not suitable top stay out in sunlight / weather etc. That is why I advocate and use natural fibre sail twine wherever possible..... and why ships have it supplied for canvas use.
As to stitch to use .... I stitch similar to that style used on seat belts and other safety items ..... stitch each side / run as a separate run tieing of at ends. Complete a square of 4 separate sides. Then a diagonal run to create the Z pattern that is common. It's not a good idea to have single thread complete the sewing ... as any break in the thread later will leave entire sewn joint liable to come apart.
Common sense and care gives no reason why this cannot be done DIY ...
The other material is carpet thread ... but best pull through a wax block before use.
I see people quote synthetic threads ... be careful about this as many are not suitable top stay out in sunlight / weather etc. That is why I advocate and use natural fibre sail twine wherever possible..... and why ships have it supplied for canvas use.
As to stitch to use .... I stitch similar to that style used on seat belts and other safety items ..... stitch each side / run as a separate run tieing of at ends. Complete a square of 4 separate sides. Then a diagonal run to create the Z pattern that is common. It's not a good idea to have single thread complete the sewing ... as any break in the thread later will leave entire sewn joint liable to come apart.
Common sense and care gives no reason why this cannot be done DIY ...