Stiff Engine Controls

[Slipperman]

My boat has a Vetus engine control working a Yanmar 3YM30 engine with a sail drive. The control lever has always been very stiff when used with the engine in gear ie under load, and it seems to be getting worse. When in neutral, the throttle action is light and smooth. The cable is a solid flexible rod type, and I can't see anything which is pressing on it which might cause a problem. I have tried lubrication, but it is quite difficult to get any into the cable itself.

I spoke to a Vetus man at the last Southampton boatshow about this, and he said it was fairly normal - said something about a cone shaped clutch which I did not understand. However, I have just come back from a week's sailing in a boat with the same engine but a Morse type control rather than Vetus - it was as smooth as silk! The only difference, which I guess may be relevant, is that the boat with the Morse control had a conventional shaft rather than a saildrive. Can anyone shed any light - I would consider swapping to a Morse unit if it is going to do the trick but do not want to waste money if it is the saildrive that makes the difference.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

I have found that deterioration of the inner core results in stiffness, especially when under load. I think what happens is that dampness eventually gets in and that any dust or salt crystals begins to jam up the cable. Lubrication probably just makes the situation worse as it helps bind together more crud. The reason I believe is a relatively close tolerance between the inner cable and outer coverings which make the cable / rod system stiff enough to push / pull. Also some nylon inner sheaths may swell with moisture over time making the situation worse.

 

[scottie]

The basics of the control are that the throttle lever and cable work at all times but the gear selection is only when it's not disengaged .

the load on the throttle is unchanged either way

When the gear is selected then you get the additional load plus any load /drag from the gearselector or gear cable.

Cables should be the correct length with long strait runs tightish bends rather than long sweeping bends.

Try disconnecting the cables in turn check that the cable allows full throw to be achieved both throttle and gear

If you wish you can get better quality cables from most suppliers which may minimize the problem

Cables are non serviceable check the rod ends are straight free from gunge and that there is no external damage to the outers do not try to lubricate

 

[PCUK]

Cable adjustment incorrect. Gear not going fully in and then putting pressure on the throttle cable.

 

[colvic987]

disconnect the gearbox linkage, and see how easy it is to engage, then you will know how bad your cables or control unit is.
I have just removed my gearbox for sterngear renewal, and was amazed how easy my gearbox linkage moves, compared to when its connected to the linkage cables and control. it will be investigated when it all goes back together.

Maybe replacement is the only option

 

[Topcat47]

Scottie said "Cables should be the correct length with long strait runs tightish bends rather than long sweeping bends." I disagree.

The tighter the bend in any bowden type cable, the higher the friction will be. Ideally the curves should be as large a diameter as possible. The sheathe ensures the inner cable moves the appropriate distance at each end, however the cable is run. With the cables disconnected, try with different bend radii and you'll see what I mean.

Don't be tempted to shorten the cables either. If they look like they're fouling anything important, clip them up out of the way.

 

[scottie]

Straight runs with short circumference bend is more efficient as it decreases the drag even if at first it seems wrong.
Don't clip cables up unless to stop fouling as it causes more drag through s bends

 

[KellysEye]

When ours got stiff I slowly poured 3 in One oil down the cable tube at the gear lever end. it worked.

 

[gpcgpc]

Good morning everyone,

I hope you’ll allow me to join this thread, as I’m dealing with a similar issue to yours.

Sailing yacht purchased in 2024, lightly used during the 2024 and 2025 season.
Engine: Volvo Penta MD22L-B
Saildrive: Volvo Penta 120S-E
Propeller: Max-Prop Classic 3-blade

Last May I had the saildrive diaphragm (the large black rubber “donut”) replaced. Prior to that job, everything was working perfectly. I had never previously feathered the propeller under sail.

After the work was completed, I tried feathering her for the first time as follows:

• Ahead at about 3–4 knots
• Engine stopped
• Engaged reverse and left it in reverse while sailing

After a couple of hours, when I went to restart:

• I shifted to neutral
• To disengage from reverse back to neutral I had to apply quite a bit of force
• I heard a distinct “clunk” from below as it came out of gear

Since then, the control has become stiff when returning to neutral, both from ahead and from astern. The gears themselves engage smoothly, but coming back to neutral feels noticeably “hard”.

I contacted Max-Prop and was advised not to use reverse to feather the prop, but to leave it in forward instead. Others have told me that once the blades are feathered in forward, one can immediately return to neutral (as apparently leaving it in forward may cause slight sticking of the shaft).

My question to you all is this:


In your opinion, could this simply be a matter of shift cable adjustment or alignment (perhaps after the saildrive work, or due to the force I applied that day)?
Or might something have developed at the level of the gearbox/cone clutch mechanism?

I hoped for a few months that it might settle in on its own, but the issue remains and I will need to address it.

Any advice from more seasoned hands would be most welcome. Many thanks in advance, and fair winds to you all!

 

[Leslie frank]

The basics of the control are that the throttle lever and cable work at all times but the gear selection is only when it's not disengaged .

the load on the throttle is unchanged either way

When the gear is selected then you get the additional load plus any load /drag from the gearselector or gear cable.

Cables should be the correct length with long strait runs tightish bends rather than long sweeping bends.

Try disconnecting the cables in turn check that the cable allows full throw to be achieved both throttle and gear

If you wish you can get better quality cables from most suppliers which may minimize the problem

Cables are non serviceable check the rod ends are straight free from gunge and that there is no external damage to the outers do not try to lubricate

I am amazed. I have always tried for long sweeping bends in the control. I will try what you recommend and see what happens

 

[Tranona]

Good morning everyone,

I hope you’ll allow me to join this thread, as I’m dealing with a similar issue to yours.

Sailing yacht purchased in 2024, lightly used during the 2024 and 2025 season.
Engine: Volvo Penta MD22L-B
Saildrive: Volvo Penta 120S-E
Propeller: Max-Prop Classic 3-blade

Last May I had the saildrive diaphragm (the large black rubber “donut”) replaced. Prior to that job, everything was working perfectly. I had never previously feathered the propeller under sail.

After the work was completed, I tried feathering her for the first time as follows:

• Ahead at about 3–4 knots
• Engine stopped
• Engaged reverse and left it in reverse while sailing

After a couple of hours, when I went to restart:

• I shifted to neutral
• To disengage from reverse back to neutral I had to apply quite a bit of force
• I heard a distinct “clunk” from below as it came out of gear

Since then, the control has become stiff when returning to neutral, both from ahead and from astern. The gears themselves engage smoothly, but coming back to neutral feels noticeably “hard”.

I contacted Max-Prop and was advised not to use reverse to feather the prop, but to leave it in forward instead. Others have told me that once the blades are feathered in forward, one can immediately return to neutral (as apparently leaving it in forward may cause slight sticking of the shaft).

My question to you all is this:


In your opinion, could this simply be a matter of shift cable adjustment or alignment (perhaps after the saildrive work, or due to the force I applied that day)?
Or might something have developed at the level of the gearbox/cone clutch mechanism?

I hoped for a few months that it might settle in on its own, but the issue remains and I will need to address it.

Any advice from more seasoned hands would be most welcome. Many thanks in advance, and fair winds to you all!

Welcome to the forum It is quite normal for it to stick in gear after sailing with gear locked in reverse. Probably nothing to do with cable adjustment if gear selection works OK in normal use. Better to leave it in neutral when sailing and the blades are feathered although common to engage reverse momentarily to feather the blades. Volvo advise against locking in reverse for the very reason you have discovered.

 

[Buck Turgidson]

Straight runs with short circumference bend is more efficient as it decreases the drag even if at first it seems wrong.
Don't clip cables up unless to stop fouling as it causes more drag through s bends

Can you give me a technical reference for this please? I have only ever seen minimum radius specified for Push-Pull or Bowden Cable and have never heard anyone recommend short circumference bends.

 

[vyv_cox]

Good morning everyone,

I hope you’ll allow me to join this thread, as I’m dealing with a similar issue to yours.

Sailing yacht purchased in 2024, lightly used during the 2024 and 2025 season.
Engine: Volvo Penta MD22L-B
Saildrive: Volvo Penta 120S-E
Propeller: Max-Prop Classic 3-blade

Last May I had the saildrive diaphragm (the large black rubber “donut”) replaced. Prior to that job, everything was working perfectly. I had never previously feathered the propeller under sail.

After the work was completed, I tried feathering her for the first time as follows:

• Ahead at about 3–4 knots
• Engine stopped
• Engaged reverse and left it in reverse while sailing

After a couple of hours, when I went to restart:

• I shifted to neutral
• To disengage from reverse back to neutral I had to apply quite a bit of force
• I heard a distinct “clunk” from below as it came out of gear

Since then, the control has become stiff when returning to neutral, both from ahead and from astern. The gears themselves engage smoothly, but coming back to neutral feels noticeably “hard”.

I contacted Max-Prop and was advised not to use reverse to feather the prop, but to leave it in forward instead. Others have told me that once the blades are feathered in forward, one can immediately return to neutral (as apparently leaving it in forward may cause slight sticking of the shaft).

My question to you all is this:


In your opinion, could this simply be a matter of shift cable adjustment or alignment (perhaps after the saildrive work, or due to the force I applied that day)?
Or might something have developed at the level of the gearbox/cone clutch mechanism?

I hoped for a few months that it might settle in on its own, but the issue remains and I will need to address it.

Any advice from more seasoned hands would be most welcome. Many thanks in advance, and fair winds to you all!

I have (had) a Yanmar 3GM30F with shaft drive to a Bruntons feathering prop. Left in neutral or forward the prop would rotate when sailing due to the shape of the blades. In reverse, rotation was arrested but, as you have found out, putting the gear back in neutral took excessive force. The answer is simply to start it in reverse, upon which it is easy to put it into neutral and then forward. I have done this for many years with no harm done.

 

[Refueler]

Have had two boats exhibit strange stiff action ... one turned out to be a slightly bent (I had to use a straight edge to even find the bend - it was so slighyt) at one operating end .. so it caused friction in the outer .... the other was the outer had started to fray and collapse inside .. finally snapped on re-launch and I had to lift cockpit floor and use a long stick !!

 

[yoda]

My boat has a Vetus engine control working a Yanmar 3YM30 engine with a sail drive. The control lever has always been very stiff when used with the engine in gear ie under load, and it seems to be getting worse. When in neutral, the throttle action is light and smooth. The cable is a solid flexible rod type, and I can't see anything which is pressing on it which might cause a problem. I have tried lubrication, but it is quite difficult to get any into the cable itself.

I spoke to a Vetus man at the last Southampton boatshow about this, and he said it was fairly normal - said something about a cone shaped clutch which I did not understand. However, I have just come back from a week's sailing in a boat with the same engine but a Morse type control rather than Vetus - it was as smooth as silk! The only difference, which I guess may be relevant, is that the boat with the Morse control had a conventional shaft rather than a saildrive. Can anyone shed any light - I would consider swapping to a Morse unit if it is going to do the trick but do not want to waste money if it is the saildrive that makes the difference.

What saildrive do you have and what propeller? I have had similar issues with a 3YM30 driving an SD20 saildrive with a Kiwi Prop. I recently found out that prop lubrication is particularly important with the SD20 drive due to the dog clutch that it has rather than a cone clutch.

Yoda