sticky rod on diesel fuel pump

'Are you saying that they cleaned it and tested it to find no faults? '
correct, bosch clean it before they test it and found no faults on the pump

will clean the circular connector, i had a grey OEM connector which was v suspect and eventually faulty, removed that and soldered it
obviously can not do that with the circular one as the pump is def a removable item
any one had probs with this connector as in wires disconnecting from the pins, or 'just' contamination ?
 
Hm, not happy
VP suggested i tested the KAD in the water
he did send me a vid with the KAD on tickover, not with higher revs
tested it just now on the trailer with the hose, no better, still cutting out with increased revs

i just asked VP if he checked the KAD on the hose and increased the revs, no answer, that is not good
about to contact the boss of the firm
any comments from you guys b4 i go ahead ?
 
simonfraser said:
Hm, not happy
VP suggested i tested the KAD in the water
he did send me a vid with the KAD on tickover, not with higher revs
tested it just now on the trailer with the hose, no better, still cutting out with increased revs

i just asked VP if he checked the KAD on the hose and increased the revs, no answer, that is not good
about to contact the boss of the firm
any comments from you guys b4 i go ahead ?
Click to expand...
Try it with the shore power connected.
 
a vac/pressure gauge between main diesel filter and lift pump? (if it's easily doable that is, no idea)

that's what I did to find the issues with my generator yanmar, after an awful lot of time turned out to be air leaking in the diesel line before the main filter...
 
connect a can of diesel direct to the lift pump on the engine with a length of new fuel hose.
If still no luck connect the new fuel pipe and can onto the filter input on the ecu assembly. The injection pump contains it's own pumps so as long as the pump is full of fuel it should suck more in.
 
simonfraser said:
what if this is just 'simple' fuel starvation due to a compormised supply
it starts, ticks over, then runs out of fuel and cuts out
how can that be checked ?
Click to expand...
If it was a fuel supply issue it's unlikely to give a 2.2 error? Worth a try though.

I still believe it's an electrical issue.

The other thing that can cause a stall is a dodgy speed sensor. Worth removing it to make sure it's clean and also test it with a multimeter.
 
battery, two red tops in series, 3 yrs old, charger 2 yrs old

speed sensor, hm, when the throttle is opened the kad speeds up just a tad and the rev gauge on the dash kicks up from what looks like a larger amount, kinda spikes
it never used to spike, just a gentle increase which appeared to be in line with the engine revs

no error code for the speed sensor ?
i'll get him to check the sensor, just googled for it, what is the part number for that ?
 
simonfraser said:
battery, two red tops in series, 3 yrs old, charger 2 yrs old

speed sensor, hm, when the throttle is opened the kad speeds up just a tad and the rev gauge on the dash kicks up from what looks like a larger amount, kinda spikes
it never used to spike, just a gentle increase which appeared to be in line with the engine revs

no error code for the speed sensor ?
i'll get him to check the sensor, just googled for it, what is the part number for that ?
Click to expand...
Speed sensors can get contaminated with rust from the flywheel, hence no error code.

It's part #21...

Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic Electrical System: B KAD44P-C, KAD300-A - MarinePartsEurope.com
 
simonfraser said:
vp kad sensor 3944124
several for sale on the web, with different connections :unsure:
got to be worth checking / replacing
especially as it seems to be a random error, the 2.2 code is now gone but still the same prob
Click to expand...
I'm not a big fan of chucking parts at problems unless it's a last resort. But if you can find the sensor cheaply then might be worth a try. I doubt it will do any harm.
 
petem said:
Please can you re-type in English!
Click to expand...

haha, typed that in a bit of a hurry :)

thanks, there is no rust on the flywheel to speak of
def greasy cr@p on the flywheel and surrouding bits
would be understandable if the sensor got contaminated

there are no error codes on the KAD now

a dud sensor would explain why the gauge on the dash is spiking and the spikes may lead to the ECU cutting the engine out ?
 
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