Stern tube corrosion

Roberto

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Hello,
my stern tube (see picture with PSS fitted) is made of some unknown copper alloy, came original with the boat which is about 35 year old. It is simply a metal tube glassed through the hull, without any kind of contact with the shaft, it just holds the bellow end of the PSS, the shaft passes through and goes to the separate P-bracket about 70-80cm away.
The copper strap (red box) is tied to the engine, which is not isolated from the shaft so there is continuity up to its underwater anodes (+ propeller and its anodes too). A second copper strap from the engine disappears into the stern, possibly to the P-bracket but I have no idea of its conditions.
This setup has been perfectly satisfactory; about 4-5 years ago I replaced the PSS bellow and the tube was in good conditions, yellow colour, I'd say better than through-hulls of the same age I replaced at the same time.
For some reason the copper strap parted and I did not notice it, the tube has remained isolated during maybe 4 years. A few days ago I checked the now visible area of the tube under the clamp and it was reddish colour, I scratched the surface and was worryingly powdery, the boat being in the water I did not insist, it seems to have dezincified/leached by an unknown extent, I have already used the engine a number of hours with the tube in these conditions but I prepared a sort of emergency kit around it should the tube suddenly break, I'll disassemble everything and check properly at the next lift out. :)
External conditions fairly constant throughout the years: same marina (or open sea/many very short stays elsewhere), very little use of 230v, normal anode consumption, .
I measured the potentials against an Ag/AgCl electrode and the copper strap was at about -800mV, the shaft was at about -900mV, the now isolated stern tube at -260mV. As the tube decay happened without the strap, I reconnected it again to the tube which is now at same -800mV, hopefully it will revert to the protected stage it seemed to have had for years, waiting for closer inspection.

I'd like to understand what is happening :)
One can often read that isolated boat underwater fittings made in non-DZR brass alloys will decay with leaching zinc at a rate depending on the initial composition of the alloy, and that no protection can be applied: the bonding through the strap to shaft anodes seems to have provided years of protection from corrosion, if kept isolated my stern tube seems very much bound to destruction. What can explain the case above?

Also, a question for people used to do fiberglass work: how would you proceed to replace the stern tube? Grind away all the fiberglass over it, then place another tube and glass it against the hull? Or try to remove the metal tube by splitting it into several sectors and then insert a new one, adding structural sealant as filler?
It will be done by a boatyard anyway but any ideas welcome.
regards, r.


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Dave 391

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I've just successfully removed the 50mm OD bronze stern tube from my Najad 391. It was fully bonded into the hull for a length of 500mm.
I used a steel tube purchased from a heating supplier 600mm long, ID 52mm OD 61mm. I cut 8 teeth in one end and gave them a slight set each way and tempered the teeth.

I then attached a hole saw with Arbour (2 1/4") over the other end of the tube and attached to a powerful hammer drill. I core drilled around the stern tube, it took me a few hours but it came out a treat. I also used a 500mmx8mm masonry bit and stitch drilled around the tube in sections which helped speed the process.

We've drilled down inside the boat close to the end to provide a pouring and air breathing point to reset the new tube after sealing at each end.

My stern tube wasn't electrically bonded but had been damaged at the prop end during IMG-20230519-WA0019.jpegIMG-20230519-WA0006.jpeg an encounter with a fishing net
 

Tranona

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Very interesting. There is no need to bond such a tube as it is not in contact with any other metal - one of the reasons for bonding "bronze" tubes into grp is to eliminate any possibility of corrosion due to galvanic action which might occur if metal fastenings are used. Any corrosion such as in the original post will be the result of seawater on the exposed end of the tube.
 

Stemar

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I discovered that the rudder tube on my Snapdragon was a length of plain 2" copper pipe when I went to refit the rudder after a bottom bearing replacement. The shaft pushed the remnants of the tube aside as it went in - a few days before lift in!:oops:. There happened to be an abandoned GRP wind surfer mast kicking around in the club compound, and a suitable section became my new tube.

It had lasted over 30 years. I was rather glad it didn't fail at sea, because the break was just about at the waterline, but it chose t break on the hard. That boat looked after me in so many ways for nearly 20 years. It was time to move on, because Madame was finding it hard to move around on her, but I still miss my Jissel
 

Roberto

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Very interesting. There is no need to bond such a tube as it is not in contact with any other metal - one of the reasons for bonding "bronze" tubes into grp is to eliminate any possibility of corrosion due to galvanic action which might occur if metal fastenings are used. Any corrosion such as in the original post will be the result of seawater on the exposed end of the tube.
I know but in this case so far what I see is 30 years bonded = no problems, a few years left isolated and it all goes powdery red. I'd like to understand how to make theory and real world converge in this case, what can/cannot explain what.
I cannot find any change in external conditions which could have had an influence in the behavior of the material.
FWIW, there is no permanent water on that part of the hull apart from the few drops when detaching the PSS carbon piece from the stainless steel ring at the begniining of the season, which I dry out with a towel; on average it's the usual moisty-salty-bilgey atmosphere, as it has been since the construction of the hull. The boat had that type of shaft seal (with graphite/carbon ring) for>20years.

Internet searches specific to cathodic protection for dezincification, selective leaching etc do not give much information, the only old (50y) and rough reference I found was this, stating 600mV enough to protect "naval brass", no idea of its scientific worth but in hindsight it appears to have been the case with my piece being brought to -800mV by bonding.
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/jctb.5010120407
Anyway, just asking questions and trying to understand what is happening, so far no way I am leaving that fitting unbonded, can't hurt much. :)
 

Tranona

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What was it bonded to originally. If to its own anode then you would have seen depletion of the anode. If it was to a shared anode then you would not know for certain. As you have probably found out galvanic action only occurs when there are two dissimilar metals in contact. The tube will almost certainly be of lower potential so you need to look if there is any contact direct with the various bits of stainless - shaft, clamps, rotor that might set up a circuit.

Dezincification can also occur "internally" that is between the zinc and other more noble metals like the copper. An anode won't help with this. obvious examples where this happens is in brass fittings like hose tails on seacocks which dezincify in the damp atmosphere or residual seawater.

Sorry can't be more help.
 
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