Steelboats

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Quote Originally Posted by rotrax

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Why dont we see these problems in the magnitude you encounter on this side of the pond Brent? Surprising when we have many, many more boats in use than BC.

I am not suggesting for a moment they cant and dont happen, but you know loads of friends suffering these problems, every bay in BC is littered with holed GRP boats, all GRP boats in BC are only fit for " Marina Queens "
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Another attempt at a strawman argument., Give us the quote in which I said
"Every bay in BC is littered with holed plastic boats ." I made no such comment .You just made it up so you would have something to argue against , liar.
By far most plastic boats in BC live most of their lives as Marina queens, as they did in Auckland while I was there for nearly a year and a half.
They seemed to do a hell of a lot of maintenance work on them, spending entire winters hauled out, considered standard proceedure there.
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Its different in the UK and Europe. The ones in trouble are made from a dense, heavy metal which is severely prone to corrosion near seawater.
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":Severely prone" is total bull, if maintained properly , an hour or a two year, if painted well.
95% of my epoxy is as good as when I put it on, over 34 years ago.
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Most of the boats suffering expensive or terminal problems are not made of wood, aluminium or GRP over here.

I am an active member of 2 yacht/boat clubs, one in the UK, one in NZ. Total membership of boat owners around 300. IIRC-in the last two years, apart from improvements and routine maintenance:-

One GibSea had a loose P bracket, one knocked a bit off his rudder sailing a 6 foot draught boat in 4 feet of water in Wellington Harbour trying an expensive short cut during an evening race, one had a shroud fail-it was 30 years old, so he changed the lot-one had a serious water leak from a hatch, again a 40 year old Houdini which required re-glazing by a specialist. Another GRP owner had a water leak from the toerail. Lifting and re-bedding the through deck stantion bases soon sorted that.
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Nigel Calder didn't do so well, bumping his rudder briefly, as reported in last months Sail magazine. One of mine pounded for 16 days in Baja surf with less damage. So much for your lie that "it doesn't happen on your side of the pond."
Shroud failure has nothing to do with hull material.
Aluminium hatches don't leak,if built well.
Hal Roth mentioned dozens of to rail bolts leaking,on his stock plastic boat, something which doesn't happen on a welded steel bulwark.
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No one currently has serious osmosis, but some have had treatment in the past, no one has a rotted core, or a problem with through hulls or mast supports.
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Don't believe that for a minute, given your lies I have pointed out so far.
Lots of rotted out cores and osmosis around here, saying balsa ,and gel coat behaves differently over there is , obviously, yet another one of your many lies.
Lots of talk about thru hull problems on many forums, and in magazines.
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So, that is my experience through knowing the gossip around 300 ish mostly GRP vessels in two clubs. Lets double the number of serious faults, as I might not be aware of some, and we get ten.

Just with your friends you list eight.

Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?498670-Steelboats/page8#BJRKlmsyLeXQWOer.99
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Far more that 8 boats with problems listed, both here, and on your side of the pond. Yet another transparent lie. Anyone surprised?
 
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Give us the quote in which I said
"Every bay in BC is littered with holed plastic boats ." I made no such comment .You just made it up so you would have something to argue against , liar.

Well-another load of BS. BS now means Brent Swain.

What about the " Advice on here caused him to spend 14 years doing a boat "

Either I or you are telling lies, Brent.

I think the readers of these pages are experienced enough to make their minds up on that one Brent..............................

PS :-Look at your post 734 Brent " The south BC coast is littered with plastic hulls with holes in them. "

It took a Straw Man about two minutes to find that.

Apology Brent-it would be nice, but I have little hope!
 
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I first met Evan Shaler in the summer of 1983, while building a 31. He had talked to the Pardeys , and had spent ten months building a male mold for a 26 ft Bristol channel cutter . He priced the fibreglassing materials , for hull and decks, and had been quoted $12 K.
Then he watched me build the hull, decks, cabin, cockpit, keels, rudder and skeg for a 31 for $3500, in three weeks.He tried to sell his mold, but no one wanted it. So he abandoned it ,and built one of my 31s for a fraction the time and money. He has built several dozen for others since.
The 31 sailed south to Panama, several seasons in the west indies,and on to England .One of the owners visited her old job ,and saw that the guy who had advised her to buy a plastic boat, who was still working and making payments on his, having gone nowhere.
The last quote we got ,a couple of years ago, for the steel for a 36, shell, was around $9K. It has remained steady or slightly less since then. You don't buy much fibreglassing material for that little.
 
Well-another load of BS. BS now means Brent Swain.

What about the " Advice on here caused him to spend 14 years doing a boat "

Either I or you are telling lies, Brent.

I think the readers of these pages are experienced enough to make their minds up on that one Brent..............................

The kind of advice given here, to buy an old plastic boat , to save time and money , is what I am referring to.
Sure didn't work out so well in that regard, for him.
 
The kind of advice given here, to buy an old plastic boat , to save time and money , is what I am referring to.
Sure didn't work out so well in that regard, for him.

Again Brent, total BS.

Users of this forum dont need you giving unwanted advice. The advice I have most often seen on here is something like " For that money you could end up with a time and money pit. Buy something ready to use. " Please link where the advice you say has been given, because its a new one on me.

I remember a mouthy bloke like you being told by a fellow motorbike racer :- " You can be my sexual adviser. When I want your banned four letter word begining with F advice, I shall ask for it! "
 
Again Brent, total BS.

Users of this forum dont need you giving unwanted advice. The advice I have most often seen on here is something like " For that money you could end up with a time and money pit. Buy something ready to use. " Please link where the advice you say has been given, because its a new one on me.

I remember a mouthy bloke like you being told by a fellow motorbike racer :- " You can be my sexual adviser. When I want your banned four letter word begining with F advice, I shall ask for it! "

Do you really think that your post (above) makes any useful contribution to the sum of knowledge about steel boats?
(I don't actually require an answer).
 
Nigel Calder didn't do so well, bumping his rudder briefly, as reported in last months Sail magazine. One of mine pounded for 16 days in Baja surf with less damage.
I don't believe you. Lying on a beach, maybe. But not 16 days of "pounding in Baja surf".

I know of a lightweight GRP race boat that was pulled off after a week of pounding in the Brazilian (yes, Atlantic) surf. With no damage.
 
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Do you really think that your post (above) makes any useful contribution to the sum of knowledge about steel boats?
(I don't actually require an answer).

You are quite right-it offers nothing at all regarding steel boats.

It was born out of total frustration with BS.

I do own a modest steel yacht-I was replacing the hatch yesterday after fettling the rusty mounting.

When its gone, I wont be having another.......................................
 
meanwhile, in alternative universe...

Hi
My name’s Brent, and seeing as this is a thread about steel yacht design, I thought I’d offer up my two cent’s worth.
I’ve been designing and building small steel yachts for a few decades now. You can read about them at my website and see the advantages they provide in terms of strength and low-cost construction.
I know steel boats have a bit of a bad reputation, but I’ve come up with some techniques, particularly for rust protection, that have proved to be quite effective. If you’re interested I can provide further details.
While not to everyone’s taste, I, and some of the people that have built from my designs, have found these to be sturdy vessels for long-term liveaboards and passage-makers in off-the-beaten-path areas. Steel can be forgiving and has proved so when some of my designs have ended up on lee shores and reefs. They’re also reassuring when offshore and concerned about running into semi-submerged objects or marine life.
They’re not the fanciest of boats, and the engineers among you might baulk at the aesthetics of some of the welding, but I’ve found them strong and usable. I prefer low-tech but functional solutions and they’ve served me well.
I chose to go off-grid and live a cruising life at an early age and this design has made this lifestyle possible. Again, not everyone’s choice, but it’s worked for me.
Anyway, if you have any questions about steel construction, rust prevention or living on board on the cheap, fire away and I’ll share my experience.
Brent

...it could have been so much easier.
 
meanwhile, in alternative universe...

Hi
My name’s Brent, and seeing as this is a thread about steel yacht design, I thought I’d offer up my two cent’s worth.
I’ve been designing and building small steel yachts for a few decades now. You can read about them at my website and see the advantages they provide in terms of strength and low-cost construction.
I know steel boats have a bit of a bad reputation, but I’ve come up with some techniques, particularly for rust protection, that have proved to be quite effective. If you’re interested I can provide further details.
While not to everyone’s taste, I, and some of the people that have built from my designs, have found these to be sturdy vessels for long-term liveaboards and passage-makers in off-the-beaten-path areas. Steel can be forgiving and has proved so when some of my designs have ended up on lee shores and reefs. They’re also reassuring when offshore and concerned about running into semi-submerged objects or marine life.
They’re not the fanciest of boats, and the engineers among you might baulk at the aesthetics of some of the welding, but I’ve found them strong and usable. I prefer low-tech but functional solutions and they’ve served me well.
I chose to go off-grid and live a cruising life at an early age and this design has made this lifestyle possible. Again, not everyone’s choice, but it’s worked for me.
Anyway, if you have any questions about steel construction, rust prevention or living on board on the cheap, fire away and I’ll share my experience.
Brent

...it could have been so much easier.
Nice try..
But..
Fat chance:o
You missed the bits where every alternative method of construction was trashed and any body designing, selling or owning GRP boats were called liars, cheats, con artists or just plain stupid.
Brent does have a few good ideas, but they get lost in his constant wilder attacks on anybody who doesn't follow his creed. Not to mention the examples of 'proof' of his ideas/sales that are not anywhere like realistic.
 
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Again Brent, total BS.

Users of this forum dont need you giving unwanted advice. The advice I have most often seen on here is something like " For that money you could end up with a time and money pit. Buy something ready to use. " Please link where the advice you say has been given, because its a new one on me.

I remember a mouthy bloke like you being told by a fellow motorbike racer :- " You can be my sexual adviser. When I want your banned four letter word beginning with F advice, I shall ask for it! "

Seeing how little cruising time they get, and how much working time they have to do to pay for it, it seems they need a lot of advice, for those who aspire to do more cruising and less working , from someone who has accomplished that since my early 20s, to the chagrin, and frustration of those who stand to profit by keeping them on the consumer treadmill as long as possible. Does the latter describe you?
 
meanwhile, in alternative universe...

Hi
My name’s Brent, and seeing as this is a thread about steel yacht design, I thought I’d offer up my two cent’s worth.
I’ve been designing and building small steel yachts for a few decades now. You can read about them at my website and see the advantages they provide in terms of strength and low-cost construction.
I know steel boats have a bit of a bad reputation, but I’ve come up with some techniques, particularly for rust protection, that have proved to be quite effective. If you’re interested I can provide further details.
While not to everyone’s taste, I, and some of the people that have built from my designs, have found these to be sturdy vessels for long-term liveaboards and passage-makers in off-the-beaten-path areas. Steel can be forgiving and has proved so when some of my designs have ended up on lee shores and reefs. They’re also reassuring when offshore and concerned about running into semi-submerged objects or marine life.
They’re not the fanciest of boats, and the engineers among you might baulk at the aesthetics of some of the welding, but I’ve found them strong and usable. I prefer low-tech but functional solutions and they’ve served me well.
I chose to go off-grid and live a cruising life at an early age and this design has made this lifestyle possible. Again, not everyone’s choice, but it’s worked for me.
Anyway, if you have any questions about steel construction, rust prevention or living on board on the cheap, fire away and I’ll share my experience.
Brent

...it could have been so much easier.

That is what I have been saying all along. ANY suggestion of ANY advantages of steel over plastic, automatically get a pile on attack by plastic advocates ,on most sites, except those with a lot of steel boat owners and builders, who have actual hands on experience with good steel boats.
 
You are quite right-it offers nothing at all regarding steel boats.

It was born out of total frustration with BS.

I do own a modest steel yacht-I was replacing the hatch yesterday after fettling the rusty mounting.

When its gone, I wont be having another.......................................

Hatch coamings should be stainless, and hatches aluminium. Not a huge expense, for so little material.
The guy who lost his plastic boat off Mexico to a whale collision, in the night, wont be having another plastic boat.
 
Well-another load of BS. BS now means Brent Swain.

What about the " Advice on here caused him to spend 14 years doing a boat "

Either I or you are telling lies, Brent.

I think the readers of these pages are experienced enough to make their minds up on that one Brent..............................

PS :-Look at your post 734 Brent " The south BC coast is littered with plastic hulls with holes in them. "

It took a Straw Man about two minutes to find that.

Apology Brent-it would be nice, but I have little hope!

Go read the latest issue of Sail magazine, before you comment on its contents. Then tell the author he is wrong ,it didn't happen, because you know more about how he spent the last 14 years than he does.
Yes ,the BC south coast is littered with abandoned plastic boats, a big political issue here. That is along way from the misquote distortion that EVERY bay is littered with them, as there are thousands of bays here.
 
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That is what I have been saying all along. ANY suggestion of ANY advantages of steel over plastic, automatically get a pile on attack by plastic advocates ,on most sites, except those with a lot of steel boat owners and builders, who have actual hands on experience with good steel boats.(IE metal boat society .origamiboats and facebook.)
 
If you have made some changes to a design, and are not sure where to put your ballast so she will float level, the solution is simple.
Jack her up and put a piece of shaft under the keel at the designed Longitudinal centre of gravity. Move your ballast inside, fore and aft, until she rocks easily on the shaft. That is where your ballast should go.
As most boats tend to squat , and go down by the stern when you load them up, slightly heavier in the bow is a good thing.
Trim ballast?
On a cruising boat, that is your tools, spare anchors , scuba gear, and any other heavy stuff
 
Another trick was just posted on the origami boats site for determining the centre of lateral resistance.
Make up and ballast a model . Run a line from bow to stern with a ring on it. Tie a line to that ring and move it until she he stays broadside while being pulled sideways . That is your centre of lateral resistance. Modelers use it all the time. Far more reliable than the calculations normally used, which are abysmally naive
 
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