northernrose
New Member
anyone know of a source of large (300mm) galvanised deck cleats?
steel yacht deck cleats
- Thread starter northernrose
- Start date
alienzdive
Well-Known Member
make them
cliff
Well-Known Member
These are smaller than you want but maybe it is worth a phone call to the supplier to source larger ones. Failing that have a look in your local marina at the dock cleats. Those may be large enough for your needs.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>
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sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>
FullCircle
Well-Known Member
You dont say where you are. I know the Essex area.
Are they special sizes? If so, have them made up by a local fabricator (agricultural welder etc) and then take them to a decent galvaniser. Should not cost a fortune.
Standard ones available for the trawlers and tug brigade. Any good working boat yard will help out.
Have you looked on ebay for the decent size stainless ones? They often go quite cheaply.
Are they special sizes? If so, have them made up by a local fabricator (agricultural welder etc) and then take them to a decent galvaniser. Should not cost a fortune.
Standard ones available for the trawlers and tug brigade. Any good working boat yard will help out.
Have you looked on ebay for the decent size stainless ones? They often go quite cheaply.
Ships_Cat
Well-Known Member
In my opinion yer best to get them fabricated from ss as main cost will be the labour not the material. Else tears sooner or later when the lines wear the galv off, especially if it is a cleat upon which part of the lines work, such as mooring ones - unless, of course, you are happy with rust staining as some are.
Simple to make if just use some round bar - horizontal piece welded on top of two spaced vertical stands of same bar welded to a piece of flat plate thru' which holes for bolting down (or weld the plate to the deck so no leaks and take the deck paint up over the weld).
John
Simple to make if just use some round bar - horizontal piece welded on top of two spaced vertical stands of same bar welded to a piece of flat plate thru' which holes for bolting down (or weld the plate to the deck so no leaks and take the deck paint up over the weld).
John
Sixpence
Well-Known Member
Is SS316 easy to work with , and weld ?
Ships_Cat
Well-Known Member
Well, it certainly is easy to weld and work if you get someone else to do it, which is my trick /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.
Is certainly home weldable though and may be best to use 316L (if Cliff is around he should be able to explain more about any need for the "L" bit). Can be then welded to mild steel deck or whatever and is commonly so on steel yachts for wear items such as cleats, bollards, fairleads, fender rail, etc.
Regards working it, the known matters about drilling, etc but are able to be easily gotten over.
However, if making ss items oneself, then the extra cost of the ss material becomes a big part of the fabrication cost if you value your labour at no cost.
John
Is certainly home weldable though and may be best to use 316L (if Cliff is around he should be able to explain more about any need for the "L" bit). Can be then welded to mild steel deck or whatever and is commonly so on steel yachts for wear items such as cleats, bollards, fairleads, fender rail, etc.
Regards working it, the known matters about drilling, etc but are able to be easily gotten over.
However, if making ss items oneself, then the extra cost of the ss material becomes a big part of the fabrication cost if you value your labour at no cost.
John
cliff
Well-Known Member
Agreed one should use the L version (Low Carbon) to limit formation of Chromium Carbides resulting in Cr depletion along the grain boundaries.
For above waterline either 304 or 316 although I would go for 316 in preference.
Use the correct stone for grinding and never use one that has been used on carbon steel. Weld using DC+ve and keep the interpass temperature as low as possible.
Better still get a shop to make them for you. Welding SS is not as straightforward as it looks although I am sure you could get the pieces to stick together but sticking the pieces together is not the same as welding them together /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>
For above waterline either 304 or 316 although I would go for 316 in preference.
Use the correct stone for grinding and never use one that has been used on carbon steel. Weld using DC+ve and keep the interpass temperature as low as possible.
Better still get a shop to make them for you. Welding SS is not as straightforward as it looks although I am sure you could get the pieces to stick together but sticking the pieces together is not the same as welding them together /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
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sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>
northernrose
New Member
on balance I think I will go for the fabricated SS welded proffesionaly onto a mild steel backing plate which i will then weld to the deck. Thanks
ccscott49
Well-Known Member
why not a stainless backing plate, look better. Or you could get the Vetus, weld on ones, samson post type.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
Is this the kind you are looking for. I made both types from tube and flat plate. Welding using TIG. Drilling using 13 mm pedistal drill and polishing using drill and flap wheel, final polish using angle grinder with polishing mop.
Design included tapped SS plate welded to deck and cleat bolted to SS plate. The cleat at edge of deck had lip over edge of deck to stop chafe of ropes
Design included tapped SS plate welded to deck and cleat bolted to SS plate. The cleat at edge of deck had lip over edge of deck to stop chafe of ropes
