Steel Boat Bilge Paint

[Guest]

Can anyone recommend a paint system for the bilges of my 'new' 1962 30ft steel sailing yacht. Pease bear in mind it's a long keel and parts will have to be done at arms stretch.

Also why does my surveyor want to change the stainless steel centreboard pivot bolt with a double galvanised bolt. I thought galvanising was zinc the same as anodes. Also as the insurance insist where can I get one by mail order in the UK?

Love the scuttlebutt makes the lunchtime pass quickly!

Pete

 

[ccscott49]

Never use stainless connected to galvanised, it makes the galavnisation strip off, corrode, very fast, thats why he wants it replaced. Galvanised bolts should be available form Anglia Stainless steel in bungay suffolk, or one of the classic tyoe chandlers. Coal tar epoxy would be great for stell bilges, but the steel needs to be clean for any paint system. A self etch primer, international make a good one, will be a good start aswell. Can't remeber what its called offhand, then coal tar on top!

 

[Guest]

I have used Damboline bilge paint on my steel cruiser and its still good after five years - another idea is a wax/oil product for classic car inner panels it can be sprayed with a garden pump/wand device so is good for 5ft or so. Many dutch barges had a similar oil based treatment

 

[gus]

Best with zinc phosphate epoxy - 2 part. Supplied by Leigh Paints. Then coal tar epoxy on top followed by danboline once it is properly set.
You can paint at a long arms length if you heat a piece of 15mm plastic pipe and shove it over the handle of your brush.

 

[AndrewB]

Stainless fittings underwater tend to pit and waste, specially if close to the surface. They also cause a small electrolytic action with mild steel. Assuming its 300 series grade stainless, (preferably 316) these are both slow processes. If your your centerboard pin has a decent diameter (1"+) and you will remove it for inspection every couple of years, then your surveyor is being decidedly picky. Is he a steel specialist? How long has the old one been in place, do you think? Once its written into the survey, though, the insurers will insist.

I use black water-tank paint (several coats - dries quick). over zinc primer in my bilges, specially where they are prone to get wet. Danboline is a good protective finish against knocks but less so against rust, I still have some where I used it in the past. Epoxy is no use unless you can eliminate every trace of rust before painting (impossible without grit-blasting in those hard to reach corners).