oldgit
Well-Known Member
Relay clicks on but starter would not turn.
Went through the usual checks . It was of course the engine on the starboard side.
It was going to have to come out and you can hardly see the perishing thing.
Providing you remove all the stuff in the way ,airbox/ oil breather ? pipes etc and cut the cable ties holding all the cooling pipes obstructing access, eventually you can actually see the starter.
Next you fit your 6ft long articulated arm (just one will do) and your eye ball extention leads and remove all the electrical wiring from starter and push it out the way.
This only leaves three bolts to try to undo .What possibly be simpler than that.
Access to all is impeded by various bits of the engine and starter motor castings , ensuring that only tiny movements of a ring spanner are possible if and when you can get it on the nut.
Sockets.....you must joking no room.
Volvo Penta also must have special nuts made to secure the motor, suspect about 50% Plasticine.
Anywho after you do get the nuts off off one flat at a time you might find the motor refusing to budge. A few taps with a 10Ib flogging hammer will cure this.
In order not the crush the oil dipstick tube handily positioned immediately under the starter motor, good idea to put a rope around the starter body and get willing volunteer to take the weight while the other chap manoeuvres the blimming thing to the rear of the engine in order to extract it.
Volvo Paul you certainly earn you money.
Ps. One will of course remember to take photos of which wires go where on the solenoid.
The owner of the boat did comment that one reason he bought the P360 was because of the space in the front of the engine to allowing servicing access, he had previously looked at a Phantom and ran away shaking after looking into the engine compartment.
If you think thats bad, have look at the 63 P impeller location, add a rolling sea and the only access over a red hot engine.
Now on its way to a local lorry motor factor for examination. Replacement unit remarkably cheap. (Not VP )
Went through the usual checks . It was of course the engine on the starboard side.
It was going to have to come out and you can hardly see the perishing thing.
Providing you remove all the stuff in the way ,airbox/ oil breather ? pipes etc and cut the cable ties holding all the cooling pipes obstructing access, eventually you can actually see the starter.
Next you fit your 6ft long articulated arm (just one will do) and your eye ball extention leads and remove all the electrical wiring from starter and push it out the way.
This only leaves three bolts to try to undo .What possibly be simpler than that.
Access to all is impeded by various bits of the engine and starter motor castings , ensuring that only tiny movements of a ring spanner are possible if and when you can get it on the nut.
Sockets.....you must joking no room.
Volvo Penta also must have special nuts made to secure the motor, suspect about 50% Plasticine.
Anywho after you do get the nuts off off one flat at a time you might find the motor refusing to budge. A few taps with a 10Ib flogging hammer will cure this.
In order not the crush the oil dipstick tube handily positioned immediately under the starter motor, good idea to put a rope around the starter body and get willing volunteer to take the weight while the other chap manoeuvres the blimming thing to the rear of the engine in order to extract it.
Volvo Paul you certainly earn you money.
Ps. One will of course remember to take photos of which wires go where on the solenoid.
The owner of the boat did comment that one reason he bought the P360 was because of the space in the front of the engine to allowing servicing access, he had previously looked at a Phantom and ran away shaking after looking into the engine compartment.
If you think thats bad, have look at the 63 P impeller location, add a rolling sea and the only access over a red hot engine.
Now on its way to a local lorry motor factor for examination. Replacement unit remarkably cheap. (Not VP )
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