standing rigging

[Sniper]

Can anyone help me please? I need to replace the standing rigging on my 'Twister' in the near future and I would like to get some rough estimate as to the cost, prior to taking all the gear off at the end of the season and measuring it for quotations. I'm looking at forestay, twin back stays, caps and twin lowers probably in 6mm s/s. Any rough ideas would be much appreciated to establish whether I plan to do it in one 'hit' or stage it across a couple of years.

Many thanks.

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[andy_wilson]

Try asking 'Twister Ken' on Scuttlebutt.

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[chriscallender]

I'd have guessed it would be in the ballpark of £500-600 to have the lot done, or a bit less if you bought the wire and swageless terminals and made up your own. There are plenty of places on the web where you could price up the raw materials eg

http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/chandlery/standing_rigging.htm

Chris

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[sailorman]

suggest u buy sta-lock terminals s/s wire from ormiston wire ( they have web-site) & d.i.y
its very easy

<hr width=100% size=1><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by sailorman on 29/10/2003 18:18 (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[Robin]

The cost will depend on how far you go, if for example you replace the bottle screws, add toggles etc. To do the job properly do it all at the same time and take the opportunity to check all the mast fittings, chain plates, halyard sheaves etc. With the mast down too check the VHF aerial (they have a short life, often corrode away unseen) and also the masthead/tricolour/steaming/deck lights. For a rough guide to cost see Jimmy Greens catalogue (they have a website www.jimmygreen.co.uk), the cost/length of the wire is but a small part of the total, the swages, toggles and bottlescrews are where the money goes. I think though you will do better then to take the old rigging to your local rigger and have him make up the new, he will be as cheap if not cheaper and no doubt will give you good advice on how best to do the job.

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[Mudplugger]

Try Great Circle Rigging @ Manningtree, N, Essex. 01206397575 tel: 393922 fax, Speak to Geof, great guy, very, very competetive.....Just a very satisfied customer.. TW.

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[maxxi]

Keep all your receipts - there will be another (inevitable) survey along in a minute and your insurance company will be inerested in rigging renewal.

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[Evadne]

I replaced the lot on my liz 29, very similar to the Twister, I'll see if I can find the receipts but £500 sounds a bit steep for the stays alone, although 9 bottle screws could easily cost you £250-£300. It will also depend on the type of terminals you have, mine are simple swaged hard eyes. T-balls or toggle types would be more expensive.

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[Sniper]

Thanks to all for the helpful responses. That gives me a good start and some useful leads. I don't think I need to replace the rigging screws; they are phospher bronze and look to be in good nick. Am I right in thinking that swageless terminals are every bit as good as swaged? The DIY idea appeals.

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[Gordonmc]

Can you sweet talk your way to getting use of a swageing compressor?

I replaced all the standing rigging apart from the forestay, which was relatively new, in the winter. Total cost - £15 for swages and eyes. The wire is 6mm galvanised which I got for the price of a pint or two from a fishing net maker and reused all but one of the bottlescrews.

My friendly local chandler allowed me into his workshop to use the compressor and even gave me a run-down on its use.

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[Birdseye]

they say that the rope gives way before the swageless terminal, but then they would

i went the swageless route - quite easy, saved a lot, and gave some satisfaction. only problem area was the t bar type fitting, where stalok didnt make one, and the norseman was expensive.

there is a knack to the swageless fitting. you have to have the courage to open up the outside layer like a flower, slot on the cone thingy, and then by running your hand down the wire and twisting at the same time, it all closes up again real neatround the cone.

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