dave_gibsea
Well-Known Member
Has anyone had any experince in spray painting using 2-pack marine paint? Is there a good plac to look for advice??
Spraying boats
- Thread starter dave_gibsea
- Start date
Swagman
Well-Known Member
Googled 'two pot yacht spraying' and got this - http://www.clubmarine.com.au/internet/clubmarine.nsf/docs/MG20-3+Technical
As they say - best place to get advice are paint manufacturers.
JOHN
As they say - best place to get advice are paint manufacturers.
JOHN
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
2 pack. Spraying.
OoooH, bet the H&SE have some good words to say about that.
I would imagine (but I don't know) that if you were doing it at a club or boatyard or marina hardstanding - you wouldn't be able to.
Nasty stuff 2-packs.
I have a mate who is the UK Chief Examiner for Painting and Decorating Exams or something and he roller-painted his Westerly Merlin with 2-pack.
He made a beautiful job of it. But then he would.
OoooH, bet the H&SE have some good words to say about that.
I would imagine (but I don't know) that if you were doing it at a club or boatyard or marina hardstanding - you wouldn't be able to.
Nasty stuff 2-packs.
I have a mate who is the UK Chief Examiner for Painting and Decorating Exams or something and he roller-painted his Westerly Merlin with 2-pack.
He made a beautiful job of it. But then he would.
oldsaltoz
Well-Known Member
G'day Dave,
You will need to wash the boat and dry it off 2 hours before you start painting, and may need to follow up with an Acetone wash (white rag only) to remove any contaminants.
A good air supply of around 65 PSI available, a spray gun with a #2 tip.
full access right around the hull without having to move trestles.
All masking completed and extra covers on deck if painting the hull only.
A good measuring system, I find the painters ruler a good tool for this.
A good mixing system. let the paint stand after mixing long enough for the chemical reaction to start (2 to 10 minutes depending on brand).
Humidity below 74% during application and for at least 4 hours after. Start spraying around 10 AM and should be OK.
Add thinners to the first coat, most brands will allow 10% don't go over the manufacturers dose. apply the first coat as a mist coat only (Very thin), start at any point and work on an area about 3 feet long start at the top and work down, then move on to the next 3 foot section and overlap the wet edge then check for any marks that will only show after this coat has been applied, repair / fill them now, doing this later will be much more time and work.
Apply the second coat as soon as the inspection is complete, adding half the amount of thinner you used in the first coat, apply a heavier coat than the first but not a full cover coat; this stuff dries very fast, only minutes you will find your starting point dry to the touch when you get back there, check with back of your fingers, it will pull on the hairs if wet and not leave a mark.
Step back and have a look, try to determine if you will need just 3 coats or a 4th at this stage, if you think you will need 4 (most do) then mix as above and apply. The final coat must be a full cover coat, this will allow the paint to self level and give a full gloss and very hard finish that will last for many years.
If you have limited experience with spraying 2 pack, you should visit your local vehicle repair shop and get their best spray painter to do the spaying for you, as he will only be spraying the time required will be under an hour so will not cost a fortune. Most spray painters are happy to do this as they all hate masking up and cleaning up.
Tip: You can reduce the risk of water in the air supply by first adding a standard water trap, however, I add a large box of ice, run the air hose coiled up in the bottom of the ice box and make sure the hose is then run straight up to a point higher than the gun will any time during operation. When the gun is disconnected between coats, remove the line at the compressor and blow out ant water between coats.
I hope this helps.
Avagoodweekend......
You will need to wash the boat and dry it off 2 hours before you start painting, and may need to follow up with an Acetone wash (white rag only) to remove any contaminants.
A good air supply of around 65 PSI available, a spray gun with a #2 tip.
full access right around the hull without having to move trestles.
All masking completed and extra covers on deck if painting the hull only.
A good measuring system, I find the painters ruler a good tool for this.
A good mixing system. let the paint stand after mixing long enough for the chemical reaction to start (2 to 10 minutes depending on brand).
Humidity below 74% during application and for at least 4 hours after. Start spraying around 10 AM and should be OK.
Add thinners to the first coat, most brands will allow 10% don't go over the manufacturers dose. apply the first coat as a mist coat only (Very thin), start at any point and work on an area about 3 feet long start at the top and work down, then move on to the next 3 foot section and overlap the wet edge then check for any marks that will only show after this coat has been applied, repair / fill them now, doing this later will be much more time and work.
Apply the second coat as soon as the inspection is complete, adding half the amount of thinner you used in the first coat, apply a heavier coat than the first but not a full cover coat; this stuff dries very fast, only minutes you will find your starting point dry to the touch when you get back there, check with back of your fingers, it will pull on the hairs if wet and not leave a mark.
Step back and have a look, try to determine if you will need just 3 coats or a 4th at this stage, if you think you will need 4 (most do) then mix as above and apply. The final coat must be a full cover coat, this will allow the paint to self level and give a full gloss and very hard finish that will last for many years.
If you have limited experience with spraying 2 pack, you should visit your local vehicle repair shop and get their best spray painter to do the spaying for you, as he will only be spraying the time required will be under an hour so will not cost a fortune. Most spray painters are happy to do this as they all hate masking up and cleaning up.
Tip: You can reduce the risk of water in the air supply by first adding a standard water trap, however, I add a large box of ice, run the air hose coiled up in the bottom of the ice box and make sure the hose is then run straight up to a point higher than the gun will any time during operation. When the gun is disconnected between coats, remove the line at the compressor and blow out ant water between coats.
I hope this helps.
Avagoodweekend......
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Don't you have Health and Safety bullies in Oz then?
sailorman
Well-Known Member
only one paint system worth using & thats
AWLGRIP
all super yachts use it & its really no more expensive than the others.
my last boat sprayed 81/2 yrs ago still as good as new
AWLGRIP
all super yachts use it & its really no more expensive than the others.
my last boat sprayed 81/2 yrs ago still as good as new
cliff
Well-Known Member
Your biggest problem is not so much what paint to use as where you are going to spray it! Unless you can get her into a shed you will have problems. Tenting off out side is a real pain but must be done otherwise any boats near by will get covered in over spray. Then you have the problems of heat and condensation.
I did one a few years ago - tented off and sprayed with automotive 2 pack paint called Gip Fast - a cyano-acrylic paint. Great stuff but do use a monkey mask (air fed mask) when spraying any two pack paint.
--------------------
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
I did one a few years ago - tented off and sprayed with automotive 2 pack paint called Gip Fast - a cyano-acrylic paint. Great stuff but do use a monkey mask (air fed mask) when spraying any two pack paint.
--------------------
alienzdive
Well-Known Member
Several years ago when I worked as a boat painter, we would never spray outside, we would always drop the mast and take it into a shed.
This was due to a company policy after recieving too many compaints that were out of our hands, ie humidity, changing temperature, diesel fumes, bugs and dust... etc etc.
One owner begged us to spray his boat at his risk after prefering not to take our advice. We got our best painter on the job, we masked up and preped the day before, pulled trigger at 8am, was done shortly after 9am, the best time to spray if outside, (ie warming temperature and all day to dry before afternoon condenstaion and humidity). Hey presto, we all had to admit it was one of teh best spray jobs that ever left our yard. It still retained its gloss too. However it was coincidence that the wheather that day allowed us to do so, there would only be a few days each year that gave us the conditions we needed.
This was due to a company policy after recieving too many compaints that were out of our hands, ie humidity, changing temperature, diesel fumes, bugs and dust... etc etc.
One owner begged us to spray his boat at his risk after prefering not to take our advice. We got our best painter on the job, we masked up and preped the day before, pulled trigger at 8am, was done shortly after 9am, the best time to spray if outside, (ie warming temperature and all day to dry before afternoon condenstaion and humidity). Hey presto, we all had to admit it was one of teh best spray jobs that ever left our yard. It still retained its gloss too. However it was coincidence that the wheather that day allowed us to do so, there would only be a few days each year that gave us the conditions we needed.
snowleopard
Well-Known Member
That makes the point that a fair amount of the spary never makes it to the boat. Given the cost of 2-pack poly, that's a pretty expensive loss - you need a fair bit more paint to do the job. Also some of it is going to make it's way into your lungs and that stuff is highly toxic - cellulose paint is mother's milk by comparison.
You'll get a good finish by using a foam roller with someone to follow behing with a good quality brush - or a jenny brush - to lay it off while still wet.
The vital thing is to keep the dust off it until it's dry. Also it mustn't get damp with dew even when it seems to be dry.
You'll get a good finish by using a foam roller with someone to follow behing with a good quality brush - or a jenny brush - to lay it off while still wet.
The vital thing is to keep the dust off it until it's dry. Also it mustn't get damp with dew even when it seems to be dry.
