Must do's are: Stena Valley, lovely little harbour and village with conspic church which is conspic once you stand in front of it. Panormous, absolutely idylic - suggest you take a copy of Cristopher Miller's book Gateway of the Wind, he lives there, it will mean a lot to you. We found lots of dolphins between Alonisos and Peristeri. Skopelos and Glossa both have flying banana ferries which give uncomfortable wash from 7am to 10pm we would either avoid or make sure we were parked as far from the entrance as possible. Generally a super area to sail and explore. We went end June beginning of July 1994 it was not too crowded.