Roberto
Well-Known Member
Spotted the difference with message #13: "th3" vs "the"
SPADE Anchor Loose Shank
- Thread starter [167227]
- Start date
geem
Well-Known Member
Yep, don't know how I managed thatSpotted the difference with message #13: "th3" vs "the"
Neeves
Well-Known Member
I tested the 'joint' of our Spade a number if times, without the bolt. We have both a steel and aluminium model (both the same size). The steel model has remained unused. You can secure the two parts, shank and fluke by using the little hole at the back of the fluke (so you don't lose it) and it is virtually impossible for the two parts to disengage. It works perfectly well without the bolt - the bolt is not structural. The joint is structural but it holds under tension - I assume if you jiggled the anchor about, without the bolt, it would be possible to remove the shank.
Our shanks are a good fit in the slot, in fact they tend to be a bit tight (if you want to disassemble) as the joint gets sand and mud inside and you do need to jiggle the shank to get it to release.
I'd look at the bolt for wear. The joint itself looks pretty robust - but if the anchor is old it may have suffered gal loss and then corrosion and wear.
It is one of those items that we find reliable and we would buy again. However now, as opposed to when we bought, there are now anchors that are equally good - in no order Excel, Viking, Ultra and maybe Epsilon (I still have not seen one here) - but all anchors are a compromise, they all have faults (Ultra's fault is actually insurmountable - price
) - and we would always carry two anchors both capable of being a primary but of different design and we would always carry at least one Fortress (we actually carry one big one and one smaller).
Currently we cannot use roll bar anchors so our choice is restricted to Spade and Excel - but Viking have a non roll bar 'in the wings' and I still retain hope for the Epsilon.
Jonathan.
Our shanks are a good fit in the slot, in fact they tend to be a bit tight (if you want to disassemble) as the joint gets sand and mud inside and you do need to jiggle the shank to get it to release.
I'd look at the bolt for wear. The joint itself looks pretty robust - but if the anchor is old it may have suffered gal loss and then corrosion and wear.
It is one of those items that we find reliable and we would buy again. However now, as opposed to when we bought, there are now anchors that are equally good - in no order Excel, Viking, Ultra and maybe Epsilon (I still have not seen one here) - but all anchors are a compromise, they all have faults (Ultra's fault is actually insurmountable - price
) - and we would always carry two anchors both capable of being a primary but of different design and we would always carry at least one Fortress (we actually carry one big one and one smaller).Currently we cannot use roll bar anchors so our choice is restricted to Spade and Excel - but Viking have a non roll bar 'in the wings' and I still retain hope for the Epsilon.
Jonathan.
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I took off the lock nut and put a breaker bar on the main nut and tightemed the daylights out of it. The shank is a lot less sloppy now. Still seems like a loose fit overall but half of the people I've asked says theirs is the same, maybe just really wide manufacturing tolerances. Will see how she goes
Sorry for foot pic....
Bouba
Well-Known Member
I was wondering if somehow an undersized bolt was used
Neeves
Well-Known Member
Instead of crushing the joint you could simply add a stainless washer, or washers (same number each side) called a shim? Which will work for a side to side wobble.
There does not seem any evidence of corrosion.
Our shank is secured with a stainless bolt and a Nyloc nut + a cotter pin (sort of like a Kirby grip ). I never tighten the nut hard.
There does not seem any evidence of corrosion.
Our shank is secured with a stainless bolt and a Nyloc nut + a cotter pin (sort of like a Kirby grip
). I never tighten the nut hard.GHA
Well-Known Member
istr reading that it's not a tight friction fit by design, otherwise the galv can weld between the 2 parts & you never get it out again. Could be false memory though
GHA
Well-Known Member
the bolt is like an rclip, does nothing but stop the shank coming out of the slot. They still work with no bolt , but body might fall off during retrieve.
KAM
Well-Known Member
I would be careful about over torquing. Better to replace that set screw with a plain shank bolt. I used a nut and split pin just to be sure.
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It doesn't get the chance, it's in the water almost 24/7
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
What is th Vee slot in the shank supposed to do.
If looks to me that tightening the bolt will just close the Vee slot together.
I would look at taking the anchor apart and hammering a cold chisel into the vee to open it up just a little.
I would also fit some washers on the bolt inside the Vee slot to stop the slot from closing up by movement of the shank in the blade
If looks to me that tightening the bolt will just close the Vee slot together.
I would look at taking the anchor apart and hammering a cold chisel into the vee to open it up just a little.
I would also fit some washers on the bolt inside the Vee slot to stop the slot from closing up by movement of the shank in the blade
Neeves
Well-Known Member
Anchors are meant to be in the seabed, not the seaIt doesn't get the chance, it's in the water almost 24/7
Jonathan
The picture is of the underside of the anchor. The 'V' slot is the end of the shank - its a 'V' slotted mortice and tenon and you can simply see the 'end' of the joint. If the joint is loose I'd try a washer (or two)
Jonathan
Farmer Piles
Well-Known Member
Vulcan?I tested the 'joint' of our Spade a number if times, without the bolt. We have both a steel and aluminium model (both the same size). The steel model has remained unused. You can secure the two parts, shank and fluke by using the little hole at the back of the fluke (so you don't lose it) and it is virtually impossible for the two parts to disengage. It works perfectly well without the bolt - the bolt is not structural. The joint is structural but it holds under tension - I assume if you jiggled the anchor about, without the bolt, it would be possible to remove the shank.
Our shanks are a good fit in the slot, in fact they tend to be a bit tight (if you want to disassemble) as the joint gets sand and mud inside and you do need to jiggle the shank to get it to release.
I'd look at the bolt for wear. The joint itself looks pretty robust - but if the anchor is old it may have suffered gal loss and then corrosion and wear.
It is one of those items that we find reliable and we would buy again. However now, as opposed to when we bought, there are now anchors that are equally good - in no order Excel, Viking, Ultra and maybe Epsilon (I still have not seen one here) - but all anchors are a compromise, they all have faults (Ultra's fault is actually insurmountable - price
Currently we cannot use roll bar anchors so our choice is restricted to Spade and Excel - but Viking have a non roll bar 'in the wings' and I still retain hope for the Epsilon.
Jonathan.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
I've mentioned before - I think lack of attention allowed the Rocna debacle to develop. I expect anchor makers to have the safety of their customer base as their priority. I'm slow to forgive.
I am sure that Vulcan is an acceptable product. Fortunately there are many alternative acceptable products and I don't feel the need to endorse. I don't condemn - unless prompted.
Jonathan
Close hauled
Well-Known Member
I used Spade anchors on two boats while living aboard sailing around the world for 18 years. We spent at least 300 days a year at anchor (that’s about 5500 days or 15 years total!) and experienced every type of anchorage, sea bed and wind condition. I have total faith in the anchor based on massive experience That amount of play is nothing to worry about. Take out the pin and try shaking the plough off and you’ll see what I mean. I suggest at least 5:1 scope on chain and more in shallow water (<5m). The Spade is bomb proof if set properly and I trusted it with our lives.
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I spoke to SPADE. they said it's fine. Just to check the bolt. They got plenty of photos etc and just said its all good. Nice company to deal with. Matter resolved
Kelpie
Well-Known Member
Now you just need to find your pants and you're all set!
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At least I found my hat.