South Brittany in the summer

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LouisBrowne

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I'm thinking of doing a trip to the Morbihan or the Vilaine this summer. Unfortunately it has to be in July and August and I'm worried about overcrowding. Can anyone who has recently visited the area between Audierne and La Roche Bernard in high summer give any advice about whether crowds of yachts are a problem there and if so how to avoid them.
 
July & Aug are peak season. So ports certainly busier than earlier or later (and more expensive - although still 'cheap' by UK standards). For the Honey Pot destinations it pays to arrive around midday. When boats planning a passage are leaving. And those on passage have yet to arrive. Fridays and Saturdays best avoided because all the local boats will be heading for the prime spots. BUT, on Sunday they head back home - leaving spaces.....Fortunately there is an embarassment of anchorages in which to loiter, for optimisation of arrival time. And, if it came to it, alternative ports to which to divert. Although (except when there is a regatta in town) the Capitaineries are endlessly creative at squeezing boats in.

A plus, with it being French holiday season, is that the likelihood of rafting ensures that you mix & mingle. And, I have found, receive 'insider tips' on anchorages and ports to visit. Not infrequently, an invite for an "apero" in the cockpit too....."Go with it," would be my advice. Its an addictive experience: Coastline, Climate, Culture. Can't be beat!

I tend to be out for the whole summer (April - Oct). So can move at a leisurely pace. I have found that asking to stay for a week increases the likelihood of both a rate reduction (even in haute saison) and a finger berth. An LOA of 35 feet or under helps too. In Vannes the likelihood of a finger berth, up by the city gates, is increased by having Passeport Escales membership. The shore access gates can only be opened by a phone with the Passeport Escales app. Passeport Escales is available as part of the UK MDL berth package - providing 5 free nights per marina in all bar 1 or 2 marinas along the Atlantic coast. Or with (almost) any French marina contract. Think "passes" can also be bought direct Passeport Escale English language site here
 
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Absolute top season is from 14th of July to 15th of August, so if you can, go before or after that period. Otherwise enjoy the rafting in harbours and be aware that our French friends have a different notion of time, so if you want to leave early, propose to move to the outside of the raft before your neighbours get to the apéritif.
 
It'll be busy, but they usually manage to fit everyone in somehow. They're not sniffy about rafting people, like they are in the UK. Go for it, you'll love it.
 
I can only echo what John_Silver has said - choose your time.

Places like Camaret fill up on Friday nights/Saturday with local boats and it is a good time to visit Brest. Similarly Concarneau/Benodet/Loctudy and the Iles Glenan. Also Lorient and Ile de Groix / Belle Ile, plus La Trinite / Port Crouesty and the islands around Houat.

In excellent weather all the marinas tend to loosen up, if you spot poor conditions coming it is as well to get in early for a good spot.

.
 
We visited South Brittany 2020, 2023, 2024 with a 10m Motorboat for several months.

La Roche Bernard 1x 2023, 2x 2024

I think due to La Roche Bernard is lying behind the barrage in Arzal there are some less sailors than in the Quiberon Marinas or Piriac.

We had never any trouble to get a berth for some days.

The same in Vannes and Isle au Moins/Morbihan.

I highly recommend a visit!

Cordially! Stefan

MY Nautic, Wiesbaden Yacht Club/Germany
 
Goldie said:
Does one have to have a French marina contract to be able to purchase Passeport Escale?
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No, I don’t think so.I have mine included my UK MDL contract (though you have to ask for it to be activated). I’ve not properly investigated the purchase option. But am pretty sure it exists via the website that I linked. Open to all comers. At what £££ I don’t know….
 
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I think when we asked the harbourmaster in Cherbourg last year she explained to us that the Passeport Escales only works with a contract for a berth in our home port.

As we are travelling during the hole summer we have no contract in our „home port“ Carteret where the boat stays during winter.

Cordially! Stefan
 
Thanks very much for the advice. I have a few more questions: first is the passeport escale only available to berth-holders in certain marinas or can one buy a passeport for a limited time? Can one stay at the 'marina' in Vannes without one? What are the islands and the rivers like for crowds? Finally I enjoyed dipping into your blog, John-Silver!
 
I believe I understodd one must have a berth contract with his home port which is member of the Passeport Escales organization.
 
Can definitely stay in Vannes without Passeport Escales. It’s just they can’t allocate you a berth beyond the floating bridge. Wherever you are berthed, Vannes is deep in Do Not Miss territory.

Think that limited Passeport Escales passes can be purchased. But stand to be corrected. Based on my seeing crews presenting temporary PE cards in the Capitainerie and having to ‘top up.’ Both times, French ‘syndicate’ boats (effectively time share boats). Which probably have marina contracts……Worth a trawl through the PE website though. Think @stranded investigated a couple of years back, so may be able to add to @Nessy ‘s experience.

SG lo res.JPG​

In the Morbihan there are numerous anchoring options. Also many seemingly unoccupied moorings. (Have only had to move once in 15+ years). Moorings available up by Le Bono - which seems a less trodden path. And gives the opportunity to visit Eric Tabarly’s atmospheric final resting place. Belle Ile also has plenty of anchorage choices (one pictured). And Houat has more lightly frequented options than the big ‘crab claw’ beach. Which always seems chock a block in any tenable weather.

Glad you liked the blog. Bit disorganised, it’s gained a life of its own over all these years! But the search function works, to find ports etc. As you can see, I’m a long term fan of the French/Spanish Biscay coast.
 
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LouisBrowne said:
Thanks very much for the additional advice. The Belle Isle anchorage looks lovely!
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Lots of nice anchorages. Ille de Houat, Belle Ille, Ille de Groix, the Glenan iles (a must visit), lots in the Morbihan, Cameret, St. Evette (Audierne). All free, and arguably a better bet in high season than the marinas.
 
LouisBrowne said:
Thanks very much for the additional advice. The Belle Isle anchorage looks lovely!
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One of my favourite locations was Sauzon on Belle Isle. It is a drying harbour but there are deep water moorings at the entrance. Plenty more anchorages around the islands but not many "secret" anylonger.
Hope to visit later this year with a cruise in company from North Wales.
 
Bobc said:
You can buy a passporte Morbihan. This gives you free access to the Companie du Morbihan ports.
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Is this conditional on having vacated a contracted marina berth or is it open to any visitor?
We only have a seasonal mooring at home
 
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