So what is on your Winter task list - here's mine ...

Farmer Piles

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On topic now.
Did quite a few odds and sods last winter but a short season as I only took ownership in late Feb. One of my jobs then was to replace the, too short, 30m of 8mm chain with 60m of the same.

This winter
Assuming servicing engine, antifoul and anodes are a given.
Sort the holding tank - remove or replace - it really stinks as I inherited somebody else's waste that is at least 3 years old. (y)
Replace all the loo hoses.
Remove the water tank in the stern in the lazarette - uses all the space and puts 180kg where i don't want it.
Replace it with a custom one midships with an access lid and translucent so I can see whats in there.
Solar panel on cabin roof
Go through the domestic batteries - 3 - and check them for output/condition
Replace nav lights and anchor light with LED bulbs - have done the interior lights

Have already had the anchor chain out and rinsed the salt off and a few other minor chores.
 

Farmer Piles

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You MYC member?
No, we joined for a year ages ago but rarely went there. Our boat lives down the hill from the house at Weir and we can walk to either the Pandora Inn or to the Lemon Arms in the village. Occasionally paddle or row to Mylor but not often enough to warrant joining MYC. I know quite a few who are members.
 

The Q

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The sailing boat...
Design and build a new rudder, the designing bit is done, need to get some foam to carve a new male mould.
Move the seat aft by 23.5 inches to improve boat balance,
Raise the boot topping by 2 inches.
Make a new jib club, order a new jib.
Touch up anti fouling where required..

The motor boat... forget it, the list is too long, but first is fix the window leaks..
 

Farmer Piles

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PS
Was it you moored on the end of the Pandora pontoon one high tide this summer? If not then a boat very similar to yours and I engaged the owner as I admired the lines of the teak decking.
 

FWB

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PS
Was it you moored on the end of the Pandora pontoon one high tide this summer? If not then a boat very similar to yours and I engaged the owner as I admired the lines of the teak decking.
No but a few Heard 28s about. Very large teak deck area on Aeolus. Could have been a friend’s home finished Crabber 30.
What boat do you have?
 
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catlotion

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Chinaspacerbasto installed and working a treat , new 20ltr calorifier fitted , new waterpump fitted (still left in the good old foot pump). Yet to wire in . Awaiting delivery of the bobil water heater ( designed to fit on the outlet of the Chinplannerbastos0acher. ) . I confess i am not expecting miracles from this kit we will see.!!
Old post I know but did you ever install the Bobil water heater? Interested in how good they are...
 

wingcommander

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Hi CL
Yes , I originally installed it temporarily sat on top of my temporarily installed Chinaspacer, see attached picture. Very straightforward to fit . You choose between water or warm air via the changeover flap. Surprising how little heat exits the bobil exchanger, so its obviously transfering well
It came with a control with two temperature sensors, these weren't required for my installation. I just wanted a simpl on off switch. I will get around to making a more permanent instalation eventually.

Works a treat , around 30 min gives piping hot water. Just got to remember to turn on the supplied 12v circulation pump . I forgot once and popped a heater pipe . Just a rubber tube exiting the heater.

If you have fresh water cooled engine , I would choose this route over the Bobil. My Bukh is raw water cooled and not sufficiently warm enough to heat the calorifier to a bug free environment temp. Very good at providing hot water ar anchor.
 

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catlotion

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Hi CL
Yes , I originally installed it temporarily sat on top of my temporarily installed Chinaspacer, see attached picture. Very straightforward to fit . You choose between water or warm air via the changeover flap. Surprising how little heat exits the bobil exchanger, so its obviously transfering well
It came with a control with two temperature sensors, these weren't required for my installation. I just wanted a simpl on off switch. I will get around to making a more permanent instalation eventually.

Works a treat , around 30 min gives piping hot water. Just got to remember to turn on the supplied 12v circulation pump . I forgot once and popped a heater pipe . Just a rubber tube exiting the heater.

If you have fresh water cooled engine , I would choose this route over the Bobil. My Bukh is raw water cooled and not sufficiently warm enough to heat the calorifier to a bug free environment temp. Very good at providing hot water ar anchor.
Thanks for the info. Interesting...

I have a fresh water cooled Volvo D1-20 but it needs to run under load to get the calorifier hot which isn't very practical on my swing mooring.

I was just concerned about how to plumb in the Bobil (with one way valves presumably) so the calorifier works in both 'modes'...
 

wingcommander

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The Bobil isn't plumbed into the coil ( the circuit your engine is plumbed to).
Its tee's into the pipework as in attached diagram. The one way valves shown are all in the kit . You only get circa 1mtr of 10mm id. Rubber pipe in the kit, so I fitted 15mm push fit as I needed around 3 mtr. Also gives a much better flow rate . If you follow the diagram you can see the cold feed from your existing tank / freshwater pump pushes through the heat exchanger (Bobil ) then into calorifier ( cold in tapp )then out to hot feed . So technically its a direct exchange as opposed to indirect ( via coil from engine) . To put it simpler the water inside the Bobil eventually exits your tap.

If it was indirect ( via coil ) it would simply boil inside the Bobil as it couldn't transfer heat to the contained domestic water fast enough.

Hope this makes sense.
 

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catlotion

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The Bobil isn't plumbed into the coil ( the circuit your engine is plumbed to).
Its tee's into the pipework as in attached diagram. The one way valves shown are all in the kit . You only get circa 1mtr of 10mm id. Rubber pipe in the kit, so I fitted 15mm push fit as I needed around 3 mtr. Also gives a much better flow rate . If you follow the diagram you can see the cold feed from your existing tank / freshwater pump pushes through the heat exchanger (Bobil ) then into calorifier ( cold in tapp )then out to hot feed . So technically its a direct exchange as opposed to indirect ( via coil from engine) . To put it simpler the water inside the Bobil eventually exits your tap.

If it was indirect ( via coil ) it would simply boil inside the Bobil as it couldn't transfer heat to the contained domestic water fast enough.

Hope this makes sense.
Ah I see! I was confused about whether to use it direct or plumb through the coil... So it just circulates it and heats it as it goes round... Makes sense.

I've just got to see if I can fit the Bobil unit in my current air ducting run...

thanks for the info.

Toby
 

catlotion

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Hi CL
Yes , I originally installed it temporarily sat on top of my temporarily installed Chinaspacer, see attached picture. Very straightforward to fit . You choose between water or warm air via the changeover flap. Surprising how little heat exits the bobil exchanger, so its obviously transfering well
It came with a control with two temperature sensors, these weren't required for my installation. I just wanted a simpl on off switch. I will get around to making a more permanent instalation eventually.

Works a treat , around 30 min gives piping hot water. Just got to remember to turn on the supplied 12v circulation pump . I forgot once and popped a heater pipe . Just a rubber tube exiting the heater.

If you have fresh water cooled engine , I would choose this route over the Bobil. My Bukh is raw water cooled and not sufficiently warm enough to heat the calorifier to a bug free environment temp. Very good at providing hot water ar anchor.
hi WC,

I've ordered all the bits now, but noticed that the max pressure for system is 20 psi, while my Jabsco Parmax 3 pump is 25 psi cut off. I've ordered a pressure switch from Bobil but didn't really want to drop the water pressure. Have you had any similar issues?

cheers,

Toby
 

wingcommander

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hi WC,

I've ordered all the bits now, but noticed that the max pressure for system is 20 psi, while my Jabsco Parmax 3 pump is 25 psi cut off. I've ordered a pressure switch from Bobil but didn't really want to drop the water pressure. Have you had any similar issues?

cheers,

Toby
No issues at all . I did increase the pipe diameter from the Bobil unit to the calorifier. They only supplied a short length of flexible tubing , (10 mm iirc ) for 15mm push fit. Also swapped out a couple of their plastic fittings for the increased diameter pipe.
I also omitted fitting the timer / temp sensors. This means its just a manual turn on / turn off after about 45min .
 

Porthandbuoy

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Service engine & gearbox.
Convert coolbox to fridge.
Install solar panels.
Re-pack stern gland.
Polish hull twixt toerail and boot topping.
Remove through hull transducers, fill and fair holes (there's two. I don't know why).
Fit masthead wind speed & direction unit and run new cable down mast (hope to have that done with mast up).
Make and fit a new instrument console.
Lap in 6 Blakes seacocks.
Fit a kicking strap to mizzen boom.
 

Laser310

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New main and 110% jib - probably Dimension Polyant GPL.., with/without lite skin - I am undecided on that.

I've been putting it off because I am trying to buy another boat, but I have reached the limit of that strategy.
 

PetiteFleur

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New hoses and maintenance pump kit for Lavac loo - you needed Atlas muscles to operate the hand pump so using a PortaPotti at the moment. No way was I going to do this whilst afloat... I might even look at electrifying it...
Service engine before coming ashore.
Finish off last winters list...
Finish 10' dinghy bought on a whim with bottom rubbing strips and new bottom boards, also look at trailer suspension.
 

wingcommander

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thanks - yeah, I'm to use 15mm as well.

What pressure does your main pump run at? Is it a Jabsco too?

looking forward to hot water!
Yes a Jabsco parmax 3 at 25psi cut out. Quite a price increase since last year .

If you decide to do the KIS route like me ,and omitt the control. Have something in place to remind you to turn on the small 12volt pump before you change the flap over too th Bobil heater. I forgot on one occasion. Turned on heater ,switched over to water heating, descended the lader to do some antifouling preparation, a few minutes later ....POP steam exiting my locker.I really thought ide damaged my heat exchanger on the Bobil..Luckily it had just split one of the rubber tubes that connect the Bobil to my 15 mm push fit.see pic
Replaced like for like as its a good failsafe. Cleaned my bilge aswell.
 

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