Mr Googler
Well-Known Member
As long as hes prepared to take the engine out…..that sounds like a good idea
Small refit Merry Fisher 805
- Thread starter jakew009
- Start date
jakew009
Well-Known Member
Terminated the ca5 for the radar
Then got it all properly connected
I bought the radar cheaply off eBay (DRS2D) and it's meant to have a proprietary 48V power supply that Furuno sell. That costs a small fortune to buy (more than I paid for the radar). So instead I bought 12V -> 48V step up converter off ebay for about £10 and used that instead. I just taped it into the base of the radar and seems to work fine.
I assume this means it works. I was kind of surprised it works given it's currently in a carpark surrounded by other boats.
The prepared the USB port for the helm
Fitted it (still need to laser engrave the covers for the other buttons)
Success
Photo of chinese ultrasonic wind sensor mounted
Radar finished
Then swapped the water pump. The pressure switch on the original one was playing up but I think it was just a bad connection. However, having spent half an hour contorting myself into deeply uncomfortable positions I decided to swap it for the new one anyway and keep the original as a spare.
Then fitted a couple of these little Ruuvi tag temperature sensors that talk to the Cerbo.
Then got it all properly connected
I bought the radar cheaply off eBay (DRS2D) and it's meant to have a proprietary 48V power supply that Furuno sell. That costs a small fortune to buy (more than I paid for the radar). So instead I bought 12V -> 48V step up converter off ebay for about £10 and used that instead. I just taped it into the base of the radar and seems to work fine.
I assume this means it works. I was kind of surprised it works given it's currently in a carpark surrounded by other boats.
The prepared the USB port for the helm
Fitted it (still need to laser engrave the covers for the other buttons)
Success
Photo of chinese ultrasonic wind sensor mounted
Radar finished
Then swapped the water pump. The pressure switch on the original one was playing up but I think it was just a bad connection. However, having spent half an hour contorting myself into deeply uncomfortable positions I decided to swap it for the new one anyway and keep the original as a spare.
Then fitted a couple of these little Ruuvi tag temperature sensors that talk to the Cerbo.
jakew009
Well-Known Member
Tried to fit the Maretron fuel sensors but after getting them mostly mounted I happened to read the instructions and realised that they are meant to be mounted horizontally not vertically. I seem to remember realising this before...
I did enter the k factors for each sensor
And got readings for both sensors when gently blowing through them so at least I know they work.
I also mounted the Maretron FFM100 box that reads the sensors in the engine bay and ran it's NMEA2000 cable but forgot the photos.
Then decided to deal with the calorifier so I finally have hot water
Im controlling the calorifier with a solid state relay. Theoretically I could flatten the batteries very quickly if I accidentally switched the calorifier on when the inverter was on but no shorepower. So I'm going to hook something up with the Cerbo and Node-RED to automatically switch the calorifier off if the battery starts to flatten.
Even labelled the box
And seems to work, heated up pretty quickly
I did enter the k factors for each sensor
And got readings for both sensors when gently blowing through them so at least I know they work.
I also mounted the Maretron FFM100 box that reads the sensors in the engine bay and ran it's NMEA2000 cable but forgot the photos.
Then decided to deal with the calorifier so I finally have hot water
Im controlling the calorifier with a solid state relay. Theoretically I could flatten the batteries very quickly if I accidentally switched the calorifier on when the inverter was on but no shorepower. So I'm going to hook something up with the Cerbo and Node-RED to automatically switch the calorifier off if the battery starts to flatten.
Even labelled the box
And seems to work, heated up pretty quickly
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
I don't ever want to heat hot water with the inverter, so the calorifier is wired to the Multiplus IN, with its own breaker. It isn't easy to control things using battery voltage with LFP.
Mr Googler
Well-Known Member
Tried to fit the Maretron fuel sensors but after getting them mostly mounted I happened to read the instructions and realised that they are meant to be mounted horizontally not vertically. I seem to remember realising this before...
I did enter the k factors for each sensor
And got readings for both sensors when gently blowing through them so at least I know they work.
I also mounted the Maretron FFM100 box that reads the sensors in the engine bay and ran it's NMEA2000 cable but forgot the photos.
Then decided to deal with the calorifier so I finally have hot water
Im controlling the calorifier with a solid state relay. Theoretically I could flatten the batteries very quickly if I accidentally switched the calorifier on when the inverter was on but no shorepower. So I'm going to hook something up with the Cerbo and Node-RED to automatically switch the calorifier off if the battery starts to flatten.
Even labelled the box
And seems to work, heated up pretty quickly
Finally….you messed something up! I was feeling mighty inadequate but now i feel better
jakew009
Well-Known Member
With the Cerbo and Node-RED it should be trivial to set it up so as the calorifier is disabled if the battery is less than say 80% state of charge and there is no shore power.
The idea is that once the batteries get to 100%, I can use the “spare” solar to heat water. I was going to connect it with an Auto / Off / On switch.
State of charge tracking is pretty accurate with the shunt
jakew009
Well-Known Member
Finally….you messed something up! I was feeling mighty inadequate but now i feel better
It was annoying because of course I had drilled all the holes to mount them before I realised
Not sure how much difference it would actually make but they will fit slightly better in the other orientation.
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
SOC is only accurate if the batteries are fully charged each day, so the SOC re-syncs, otherwise it drifts more and more each day. You should be OK most of the time though, as you have plenty of solar and will usually be using the boat in good weather.
jakew009
Well-Known Member
Yep. Our experience is that shunts are pretty accurate when the currents are fairly consistent and small. On the solar cctv towers we can accurately predict battery life over many weeks without any synchronisations.
However, it is much harder when you get big spiky currents such as with an inverter.
Today the solar had fully recharged the battery by about 1.15PM and it’s now just supporting the background loads and the fridge. The solar is still quite shaded because of its position on the roof but as the sun gets higher in the sky it’ll be better.
The boat is on the hard October - March, then on a swinging mooring for the summer. I’m hoping the solar will keep it alive
jakew009
Well-Known Member
Only had a few minutes this evening but took out the old tiny powder extinguishers and replaced them with 2l Firexo extinguishers which work on all fires and make much less mess if accidentally set off
One in the cabin:
And one under the helm seat:
The fitted the new wiper motor covers I 3D printed. They used to just be a flat piece of wood but the new wiper motors are slightly bigger.
One in the cabin:
And one under the helm seat:
The fitted the new wiper motor covers I 3D printed. They used to just be a flat piece of wood but the new wiper motors are slightly bigger.
Bouba
Well-Known Member
I’m disappointed in Jake…he had a few minutes but only managed three jobs
jakew009
Well-Known Member
Designed a new mount that holds the fuel flow sensor in the correct orientation
Then set it printing
9 hour print, will be ready in the morning
Also ordered some new black fenders and some black antifoul to get it ready to go in the water next week hopefully
Then set it printing
9 hour print, will be ready in the morning
Also ordered some new black fenders and some black antifoul to get it ready to go in the water next week hopefully
jakew009
Well-Known Member
Finished the fuel flow monitoring
New mounting brackets that hold the sensors in the correct orientation:
The sticky out thing is the fuel vacuum gauge which should tell me if the Racor is getting plugged.
And then mounted in the engine bay and all plumbed up. I suspect I will regret placing them here next time I change the fuel filter but oh well they are easy enough to move out the way.
New mounting brackets that hold the sensors in the correct orientation:
The sticky out thing is the fuel vacuum gauge which should tell me if the Racor is getting plugged.
And then mounted in the engine bay and all plumbed up. I suspect I will regret placing them here next time I change the fuel filter but oh well they are easy enough to move out the way.
jakew009
Well-Known Member
Then finished up the last of the wiring
Got the induction hob all working and fitted a fire blanket
Tidied up the wiring behind the helm a bit and fitted decent Littelfuse fuses. I wasn't really aiming for a showroom fancy finish with the wiring, more something organised and easy to tweak. The space in this locker is really too small for all the stuff in it.
Wiper computer and remote control receiver
This thing works brilliantly for controlling anchor windlass and thruster.
Tidied up the wiring in the top section above the windscreen. Again functional rather than beautiful...
And in the bottom of the wardrobe. This is still a bit of a work in progress and I still have more labelling and tidying to do but it's functional and I still have some stuff I want to change (like the AlbaCombi, what a piece of crap that is).
If I did it again I'd use remotely operated battery switches (would massively cut down on the cabling bulk) and I'd also probably use digital switching. It would make it all so much simpler and easier to extend.
These are the light switches, a fused spur for the induction hob and a 13A socket. Below is the induction hob controls.
And on this side is the main bank of switches.
Top thing is the heater controller.
Second row is:
1) Sleep control - essentially you flick this switch off when you leave the boat and it turns everything off, just leaving the essential loads. So switches things like the water pump, navigation screens, lights etc.
2) Accent lighting inside
3) Calorifier relay control (auto/off/manual)
4) Fresh water pump
5) Bilge pump A (on/off/auto)
6) Bilge pump B (on/off/auto)
The two bilge pump switches are monitored so an alarm goes off if they are switched from auto mode.
The final row is a USB socket, a blank (that I'm going to replace with a cigarette lighter socket) and another 13A socket.
And finally on the helm:
Top left - bow thruster left / right (only works when it's been activated by the other switch)
Top right (USB socket)
Second row:
1) Horn
2) Bow thruster activation (push to activate, push again to deactivate, automatically deactivates after a couple of minutes)
3) Anchor windlass up / down
4) Anchor windlass activation (same as bow thruster activation)
Third row:
1) Nav / anchor lights
2) Radar power
3) Computer monitor power (the PC runs all the time)
4) Windscreen wash / wipe / intermittent computer
And then the autopilot at the bottom and VHF underneath.
Everything else is done via Timezero on the windows computer that sits behind the dashboard.
And finally in the head there is lightswitch, shower evacuation pump and toilet empty.
I still need to go through and design the vectors for the switches and then laser engrave them but I haven't even designed them yet. That is a summer job.
Got the induction hob all working and fitted a fire blanket
Tidied up the wiring behind the helm a bit and fitted decent Littelfuse fuses. I wasn't really aiming for a showroom fancy finish with the wiring, more something organised and easy to tweak. The space in this locker is really too small for all the stuff in it.
Wiper computer and remote control receiver
This thing works brilliantly for controlling anchor windlass and thruster.
Tidied up the wiring in the top section above the windscreen. Again functional rather than beautiful...
And in the bottom of the wardrobe. This is still a bit of a work in progress and I still have more labelling and tidying to do but it's functional and I still have some stuff I want to change (like the AlbaCombi, what a piece of crap that is).
If I did it again I'd use remotely operated battery switches (would massively cut down on the cabling bulk) and I'd also probably use digital switching. It would make it all so much simpler and easier to extend.
These are the light switches, a fused spur for the induction hob and a 13A socket. Below is the induction hob controls.
And on this side is the main bank of switches.
Top thing is the heater controller.
Second row is:
1) Sleep control - essentially you flick this switch off when you leave the boat and it turns everything off, just leaving the essential loads. So switches things like the water pump, navigation screens, lights etc.
2) Accent lighting inside
3) Calorifier relay control (auto/off/manual)
4) Fresh water pump
5) Bilge pump A (on/off/auto)
6) Bilge pump B (on/off/auto)
The two bilge pump switches are monitored so an alarm goes off if they are switched from auto mode.
The final row is a USB socket, a blank (that I'm going to replace with a cigarette lighter socket) and another 13A socket.
And finally on the helm:
Top left - bow thruster left / right (only works when it's been activated by the other switch)
Top right (USB socket)
Second row:
1) Horn
2) Bow thruster activation (push to activate, push again to deactivate, automatically deactivates after a couple of minutes)
3) Anchor windlass up / down
4) Anchor windlass activation (same as bow thruster activation)
Third row:
1) Nav / anchor lights
2) Radar power
3) Computer monitor power (the PC runs all the time)
4) Windscreen wash / wipe / intermittent computer
And then the autopilot at the bottom and VHF underneath.
Everything else is done via Timezero on the windows computer that sits behind the dashboard.
And finally in the head there is lightswitch, shower evacuation pump and toilet empty.
I still need to go through and design the vectors for the switches and then laser engrave them but I haven't even designed them yet. That is a summer job.
Last edited:
njrs_123
New Member
Hi Jake, just a quick question. When you changed the windscreen wiper motors, did you retain the old wiper arms by chance, and if so, do you have them for sale? I have a friend with an 805, who is looking to replace his wiper arms, and as you’re no doubt aware, DOGA no longer make/support replacements. Kind regards.
jakew009
Well-Known Member
I am 99% sure I put them in the skip when I took them off I’m afraid. They were pretty knackered anyway with previous owner bodges.
However I have a feeling this is the arm: 400-500mm Adjustable Wiper Blade - 8 x 2.5mm Screw Fixing-0-891-01
And this the blade:
DURITE 600mm Sprung Type Wiper Blade - 8 x 2.5mm Screw Fixing-0-894-60
However I have not tested they are the right parts. Altec are helpful and would let you send it back. Apparently they can no longer source the actual Doga motor.
