Small dry powder fire extinguisher with a hose?

For an engine room use CO2 not powder for the reasons mentioned, that's what we had.
I am not comfortable with using CO2 in a confined space, it makes breathing difficult and needs ventilation to clear, what happens if a hot spot reignites?
 
For UK based boats, fit what you want but, for those based or, going to be based abroad, look at local regs. In Portugal for instance CO2 banned and FE virtually impossible to find or get serviced, which is required annually for all extinguishers . I carry 3 x 1kg dry powder to comply with the regs plus a 3 litre foam with pipe which can be used anywhere including engine space.
 
And then be potentially helpless and entirely dependent on others for rescue?

Perhaps some sort of "sails" would be useful? Or just watch the bow slide smoothly under the waves while thinking "well, at least we didn't get any dry powder in the engine".

Fire extinguishers are for putting out fires. Insurance is for dealing with the mess.
 
Perhaps some sort of "sails" would be useful? Or just watch the bow slide smoothly under the waves while thinking "well, at least we didn't get any dry powder in the engine".

Fire extinguishers are for putting out fires. Insurance is for dealing with the mess.

I did actually say that some of us have alternative propulsion (i.e. sails), but of course, a lot don't! I didn't say that those who rely on engines alone are probably more susceptible to engine space fires, but I suspect it's true. After all, if we're under sail, what's to go wrong in the engine space (OK, wires chafing etc. can happen anywhere).

I didn't say "don't use an extinguisher", I said "be aware that dry powder extinguishers have down sides (up to and including ruining your engine), and consider this when selecting what to use". Of course, using a dry powder extinguisher is preferable to sinking or burning, but there are possible mitigations that you could consider if using them (e.g. turning the engine off!)
 
Isn't it SOP to turn off fuel and electrics before using an extinguisher?

Given that my batteries live in the engine space, turning the electrics off is a bit pointless in the event of an engine space fire! A fire there would almost certainly cause the battery lines to short together. And the batteries are behind the engine... Fuel, yes, if I can do so without risk - again, the entire fuel system connects to the engine space; this is necessary as the air supply for the engine comes from the locker the fuel tank is in, so a flame could easily pass between the two. Opening that locker to turn off the fuel might well result in allowing extra oxygen to the fire!

Obviously, precautions and responses will vary according to the specific installation. Mine is a typical yacht auxiliary setup; the maximum possible fuel flow wouldn't be very high, and would stand a good chance of sealing itself off if the flexible pipe connecting the copper pipe to the engine melted, But the fuel system of a twin engine, 1000HP monster would be a different kettle of fish!
 
Well, a lot of opinions and recommendations. Personally I stick with AFFF as it douses the fire and cools the area which CO2 doesn't. Can also be used on any type of fire including mains. It is not recommended for mains due to the fact that if the nozzle is damaged it won't form the foam and will then conduct electricity. If you look after your extinguishers then this isn't a problem.
 
It also depends on price per unit these 2 units are both acceptable but there is a massive price difference, all scenarios may happen on an engine fire, how we deal with it and the level of fire will vary so I don't think there is an exact right answer apart from as long as you can get it out , I have a fuel cut of in main saloon so that works for me, and have fine spray automatics in engine compartment.


https://www.fireprotectionshop.co.u...g-automatic-dry-powder-fire-extinguisher.html

https://www.fireprotectionshop.co.u...-automatic-clean-agent-fire-extinguisher.html
 
Isn't it SOP to turn off fuel and electrics before using an extinguisher?
Depends on where the switches are. Diesel has a much higher flash point that petrol.

If I have a fire the petrol can for the outboard and the gas bottles are in a position to go overboard as exploding gas cylinders are like bombs.

Water mist can be used on class A, B, C, F and electrical fires.

https://www.fireservice.co.uk/safety/water-mist-extinguishers/

http://www.nwfiresolutions.co.uk/article/14/guide-to-uk-fire-classes-from-a-to-f
 
I did actually say that some of us have alternative propulsion .. .I didn't say "don't use an extinguisher" ...

I know, I know, but I think that issues of cleaning up and getting home really ought to be of secondary importance compared to "putting the bloody fire out".

If an engine has managed to set itself on fire, how likely is it to be able to get you home anyway?
 
Coo. Having read up on them and watched the videos, I'm convinced. I'm having one of those for the boat.

Carbon dioxide extinguishers should NOT be used in small confined spaces as the gas will quickly replace the oxygen and may asphyxiate if inhaled.
clearly only if your going into your engine room to kill the fire , but should also be noted for cabins and wheelhouses
 
Intending to fit a Halon replacement (FE36) to present boat I found I could not find enough space above the engine to mount a suitable size. I used a Pyrogen one mounted away from the engine behind the gearbox, with a automatic heat-sensing cord led to the top of the engine bay. Expensive, but small and neat and the main unit has a 10 year life. It's a sort of canister of solid semi-explosive that produces an extinguishing aerosol when ignited.

Many years ago I was involved in testing fire extinguishers, and at that time Halon was by far the most effective on fuel fires. Powder was far less so, and the mess and damage it can cause are dreadful.
 
I'm tempted to buy a water mist extinguisher but they are not A / B rated and I suspect that an insurance company would not count them towards the total extinguisher capacity required. They might reject a fire-related claim if you didn't have the required A / B capacity.
 
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