single line reefing - big stresses

[lustyd]

When used properly I've never had issues. What does often cause extra stress is not using the topping lift while reefing, so the reefing line often has to lift the boom at the same time. This also causes the clew to tighten first, which makes it almost impossible to then successfully tighten the tack without having major issues.

 

[Malcb]

I've had single line reefing on my boat for the lsat 5 years. Single line from boom to the aft block on the sail. back to the pully at the end of the boom, through the boom round a pully and exit the boom upwards to another block on the sail, down through a bullseye on the mast through a deck organiser and back to a clutch accessible from the cockpit.

Provided I lift the boom on the topping lift, then I can pull a reef down in seconds, by holding the main halyard and pulling the reefing line so that the sail drops in a controlled manner. NO need to use a winch, except for just tightening the main halyard. OK my boat is only 23 foot, but it is using the topping lift that makes it easy.

 

[vyv_cox]

Picture on page 14 of Selden guide showing the single line reefing that actually uses more than one line - but you still only pull one!

I first installed this system in about 1990 and have used it ever since. Then, some years later, I read that it had been patented by Z-spars System 2. This prevented Selden from using the same system, forcing them to come up with an alternative. The one you show is not the original version, which AFAIR was a lot more complicated.

Would you recommend a move to Dyneema lines for single line reefing ?? Is it mega expensive?

Definitely worth it. Because I only needed short lengths I managed to buy all mine from an Ebay trader at a very reasonable price and in the colours I wanted.

 

[rudolph_hart]

Dylan..

Are you also aware that there are a couple of very different reefing systems both of which could be called 'single line reefing' systems..

One is where the single line that you pull comes from a termination on the boom, up and back through the reefing eye on the leech, forwards through the boom and then up and back through the reefing eye on the luff before heading to where you are pulling from in the cockpit.

This method tends to pull the luff cringle down first making it very difficult to get the pull for the leach/tack end down. Sail can easily suffer from chafe as the line pulls through even if you have a pulley on the sail.

Second is where you still only have one rope to pull but within the boom it is magically split on a few pulleys so both luff and leech cringles have their own single line emerging from the boom. Yes - you pull on one line and two single lines get pulled in (one at the front and one at the back of the boom) both at the same time.

Second method.. so much easier to work with.. no chance of chafe.. requires special boom internals.. but is it really single line You only pull one so it must be!

And there is a third type, where line is bowlined to luff ring, down through forward end of boom, up through aft end of boom, through a block attached to leech, back down through boom, exits at forward end of boom, through footblock back to winch/clutch. In the case of my Dehler, the winch & clutch are on the coaming beside the wheel (as is the mainsheet - the 'German Mainsheet' as they now call it on new boats).

 

[Stemar]

I fitted single line reefing (2 reefs) on Jissel last winter & it's been a great success. The lines run from the boom to the leach cringle back to a turning block on the boom, forward to the goosneck, through a block to the luff cringle then down to the foot of the mast & back to the cockpit. Initially friction was too high, so I put blocks at the cringles and it made a huge difference.

The first time I used it in anger, I was out on the day of the RTI this year, and decided I needed a second reef in, so I turned to windward on the autopilot. Topping lift on, halyard off haul in the reefing line, haul in the halyard, topping lift on. Job done before the bow blew off, maybe 15 seconds. It's transformed my ability to sail single handed.

 

[dylanwinter]

pix

I fitted single line reefing (2 reefs) on Jissel last winter & it's been a great success. The lines run from the boom to the leach cringle back to a turning block on the boom, forward to the goosneck, through a block to the luff cringle then down to the foot of the mast & back to the cockpit. Initially friction was too high, so I put blocks at the cringles and it made a huge difference.

The first time I used it in anger, I was out on the day of the RTI this year, and decided I needed a second reef in, so I turned to windward on the autopilot. Topping lift on, halyard off haul in the reefing line, haul in the halyard, topping lift on. Job done before the bow blew off, maybe 15 seconds. It's transformed my ability to sail single handed.

I would love to see some pix of these reefing systems

it seems that it should be possible to make it work provided I invest in enough good blocks and put them in the right place

Dylan

 

[Bav34]

It sounds as though blocks help Dylan but without doubt it's the ability to take the weight off the sail by lifting the boom that is the answer.

We have a solid rod kicker that pushes the boom up to about 15 degrees from the horizontal when it and the main sheet is released. The main then just becomes a flappy thing that flaps a lot.

All you are really doing then is winding a line in with a 'bit' of resistance ... but that's what the winch is for.

 

[prv]

It sounds as though blocks help Dylan but without doubt it's the ability to take the weight off the sail by lifting the boom that is the answer.

Surely that applies to any slab reefing system, though? Nobody should be hauling the outboard end of the boom upwards using the clew pendant. Lift the boom, pull the new clew out to it, drop the boom.

Pete

 

[Bav34]

Of course, but Dylan observed lots of strain and tension involved which leads me to think that the guy was just winding EVERYTHING up.

I can't see how a sail that has absolutely no pressure on it, ie sheet and halyard released, could cause such a problem.

The reefing pennants on my set up haul down on the luff and through cringles on the leech simultaneously and as I said it's a quick and easy job. No need for blocks or special rope. Just get the pressure off and wind away.

 

[Robert Wilson]

Of course, but Dylan observed lots of strain and tension involved which leads me to think that the guy was just winding EVERYTHING up.

I can't see how a sail that has absolutely no pressure on it, ie sheet and halyard released, could cause such a problem.

The reefing pennants on my set up haul down on the luff and through cringles on the leech simultaneously and as I said it's a quick and easy job. No need for blocks or special rope. Just get the pressure off and wind away.

That may well be the reason why I experienced significant friction. I'll check it out - you may just have saved me a fair bit money and a lot of hassle (see earlier thread)

THANK YOU

 

[prv]

Of course, but Dylan observed lots of strain and tension involved which leads me to think that the guy was just winding EVERYTHING up.

True - you may well be right.

Pete

 

[dylanwinter]

needless to say

True - you may well be right.

Pete

this is one occasion where there was no film

Dylan

 

[jellylegs]

My single line reefing works really easily. I can pull the bulk of the reef in and just tension the last part with a winch.
It pulls out easily too.
The key is to how it is rigged inside the boom.
Check out the Selden sinlge line reefing info. Easy to copy, to a point.

 

[Slycat]

Someone asked for photos?

This is the system I put in myself on my Achilles 24. I can reef single handed from the cockpit.

Theres still a bit too much friction for my liking, I sometimes end up 'helping' the line along the boom by reaching up and pulling the part of the line that pulls the clew but its not difficult.

It totally works tho and was easy (and cheap!) to install. It's a million miles better than the roller reefing that was there before. Next season I'll maybe put the blocks on the gooseneck on the mast instead.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/52955484@N06/6903410301/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/52955484@N06/6903405291/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/52955484@N06/6903407955/in/photostream

Hope that helps.

Chris - http://www.causewaycoastsailing.com

 

[dylanwinter]

I did - perfect

Someone asked for photos?

This is the system I put in myself on my Achilles 24. I can reef single handed from the cockpit.

Theres still a bit too much friction for my liking, I sometimes end up 'helping' the line along the boom by reaching up and pulling the part of the line that pulls the clew but its not difficult.

It totally works tho and was easy (and cheap!) to install. It's a million miles better than the roller reefing that was there before. Next season I'll maybe put the blocks on the gooseneck on the mast instead.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/52955484@N06/6903410301/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/52955484@N06/6903405291/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/52955484@N06/6903407955/in/photostream

Hope that helps.

Chris - http://www.causewaycoastsailing.com

gave me some ideas

 

[JimC]

After reading this thread I can see why people sail junk rigged yachts.

+1, though I believe they do involve quite a bit of string.

 

[chrisedwards]

+1, though I believe they do involve quite a bit of string.

Far less string than a bermudan - its just that the string is unfamiliar to you.

Looking at a recent thread where people were listing (as many as fifteen) strings for reefing - junk rigs just have three generally.

A stress free rig for stress free sailing. the new generation of junk sails are fast to windward - win club races and are beautiful to behold.

So Dylan - there are three junk rig Liberties - give one a go - you might find beauty and aesthetic pleasure comes from experience. Nothing is stressed - no tight shrouds, sheets, lines.....nerves.

 

[charles_reed]

Inherent on all single line reefing is the amount of frictional resistance.

My 1st two reefs are single line, using Harken Carbo-lite blocks, probably the lowest resistance of any blocks, and 10mm Dyneema.

No plain bearings (blocks on cringles) and carefully worked-out positioning of cheek blocks make the system just possible.

The frictional resistance and the vast lengths of string involved makes single line reefing of interest to single-handers only.

 

[shaunksb]

I was having difficulty with friction on my jeanneau.

My rigger told me that the standard braid on braid lines can suffer a lot from twist so we swapped to dynema one size down.

Job done. It really was a transformation.


.

 

[stevebrassett]

What does often cause extra stress is not using the topping lift while reefing, so the reefing line often has to lift the boom at the same time. This also causes the clew to tighten first, which makes it almost impossible to then successfully tighten the tack without having major issues.

This is a very good point, and one I was about to make until I saw I had been beaten to it!