Simple shore power

RogerFoxTerrier

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My boat has a 230v 3 pin socket, previously used with an inverter. I was thinking about some simple shore power, simply wiring the socket to a cable / marine plug through an appropriate hull / deck fitting.

I guess we'd use these mainly for laptops and charging the 12v system.

Do I need a breaker? Is there anything else to consider? Do A/C systems need any professional certification?

Thanks
 
My boat has a 230v 3 pin socket, previously used with an inverter. I was thinking about some simple shore power, simply wiring the socket to a cable / marine plug through an appropriate hull / deck fitting.

I guess we'd use these mainly for laptops and charging the 12v system.

Do I need a breaker? Is there anything else to consider? Do A/C systems need any professional certification?

Thanks
You should incorporate a circuit breaker and an RCD

This type of thing makes a convenient temporary shorepower installation as it has both MCB and RCD

https://towsure.com/collections/mai...ite-hookup/products/5-way-mains-unit-with-usb

Much more expensive than the last time I looked at them but maybe you can find similar for less. If not then take advantage of Towsure's January Sale.
Towsure also do one without USB socket for a bit less.
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The easiest way is probably a camping extension as shown above with a socket tester of abroad. Once you go to a permanent installation, you'd need to ensure that the installation was safe, earthed and had adequate fault protection.
 
I have one of the camper type sockets that VicS shows - perfectly fine, I just added a suitable inlet socket in the cockpit so I could just plug in the power lead(after shortening the cable and adding a new outlet socket on the cable). USB sockets are wired in separately.
 
My boat has a 230v 3 pin socket, previously used with an inverter. I was thinking about some simple shore power, simply wiring the socket to a cable / marine plug through an appropriate hull / deck fitting.

I guess we'd use these mainly for laptops and charging the 12v system.

Do I need a breaker? Is there anything else to consider? Do A/C systems need any professional certification?

Thanks
You could simply do as you sugest but fit one of these:- 13A 1 Gang RCD DP Switched Socket (Latching) - White | Timeguard (RCD02WPVN)
However I would strongly advise you to go down the route of the garage type consumer unit. You can get "Unpopulated" ones into which you can put a 16 amp RCBO and a couple of blanks to just feed the existing socket or add additional CB's for things like battery chargers etc.
Axiom Metal Enclosure
 
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My boat has a 230v 3 pin socket, previously used with an inverter. I was thinking about some simple shore power, simply wiring the socket to a cable / marine plug through an appropriate hull / deck fitting.

I guess we'd use these mainly for laptops and charging the 12v system.

Do I need a breaker? Is there anything else to consider? Do A/C systems need any professional certification?

Thanks
You need an RCD and a breaker, or an RCBO.

The camping cable above has both, so you could use one of those.

A better solution would be a proper, fixed installation. You could fit a two module enclosure and a 16A RCBO, to which you could then fit some sockets in the boat, wherever you need them. The RCBO would be connected to s shore power inlet.

Examples,

Enclosure : https://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-nh-ese2-ip40-2-module-unpopulated-din-enclosure/32311
RCBO ; https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-...-b-curve-bidirectional-rcbo-double-pole/396yc
Shore power inlet: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4347318-16a-2p-e-230v-straight-panel-socket-ip44

You could fit a garage consumer unit, as suggested above, if you think you might need extra circuits, requiring more MCBs. But, don't buy ready populated ones as the MCBs will almost certainly be incorrectly rated for a boat.
 
You could simply do as you sugest but fit one of these:- 13A 1 Gang RCD DP Switched Socket (Latching) - White | Timeguard (RCD02WPVN)
However I would strongly advise you to go down the route of the garage type consumer unit. You can get "Unpopulated" ones into which you can put a 16 amp RCBO and a couple of blanks to just feed the existing socket or add additional CB's for things like battery chargers etc.
Axiom Metal Enclosure
Domestic consumer units are now all in metal enclosures to meet the fire resistant requirements of the current regs.
BUT
it is still possible to get them in ABS plastic enclosures, which perhaps being rust proof might be more attractive for use on the boat.

eg from Furneaux Riddall
Mini Consumer Unit Enclosure with 40A RCD Type A and MCBs Type B

.
 
Domestic consumer units are now all in metal enclosures to meet the fire resistant requirements of the current regs.
BUT
it is still possible to get them in ABS plastic enclosures, which perhaps being rust proof might be more attractive for use on the boat.

eg from Furneaux Riddall
Mini Consumer Unit Enclosure with 40A RCD Type A and MCBs Type B

.
The plastic ones above are IP65 waterproof unlike the metal ones.
Also available at IP66 to keep your electrics nice and dry.
TLC consumer unit
 
Domestic consumer units are now all in metal enclosures to meet the fire resistant requirements of the current regs.
BUT
it is still possible to get them in ABS plastic enclosures, which perhaps being rust proof might be more attractive for use on the boat.

eg from Furneaux Riddall
Mini Consumer Unit Enclosure with 40A RCD Type A and MCBs Type B

.

andsarkit

The plastic ones above are IP65 waterproof unlike the metal ones.
Also available at IP66 to keep your electrics nice and dry.
TLC consumer unit

See #10 The ones mentioned above are "Populated"
 
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