Sigma 33 rudder removal

[Matata]

Part of a big winter project is to remove the rudder and replace the bearings. The first hurdle is to remove a "bronze" block which the rudder shaft and tiller is attached to. From what I can make out there is a 8mm pin that is driven across the shaft which holds the rudder shaft in place.It is just visible in the photo enclosed. You can double click the photo to enlarge it. Anyone know how I get that pin out? .Does anyone know how to replace the bearings? Are they simply an interference push fit? Any advice greatfully accepted. TA Nik

 

[Spyro]

It looks very similar to the set up I had on my previous boat apart from where you have a pin throught the shaft mine was held with the same bolt that attached the tiller. I would think you should be able to drive out the pin.
Take the weight off the tiller by supporting it with blocks under the bottom of the tiller.

 

[Sandyman]

Did exactly as your doing on a Sigma33 a few years back. I found the securing pin you mention was near on impossible to remove. Ended up putting a large blow-torch on the bronze block and then knocking it out with a drift.
The bearings are as you suggest. I seem to remember that we had to get a set made as they were not available off the shelf for some reason. Could be wrong.

 

[saltwater_gypsy]

First obtain a spade.
Then you dig a pit below the rudder. Then remove to tiller clamp (which may require heat) . Have someone ready to catch the rudder when it comes free.
If you are having bearings made up, make sure you have the right material as some plastics (is it nylon or PTFE?) expand when wet and can cause problems.

 

[prbw]

Sigma 33 Rudder bearings

When I did my 33, I found that the best way to remove the rudder was to do it during the lift-out process - otherwise its a digging job as has been mentioned, or an extra lift once ashore to drop the rudder. My pin came out fairly easily with a drift and a big 'ammer! The bearings themselves are an interference fit, but are held in place by a couple of hex-head set screws that will become visible once the rudder has been removed. Once the set-screws have been removed, you can drift out the bearings with an old broom handle or similar - gentle tapping all round does the trick to get them out straight. On replacement you will need to drill suitable new holes for the screws, and the holes need to be big enough so that the bearing is not distorted as the screw goes in, otherwise you will get a high spot and a binding rudder. In '05, the proper bearings were available from Northshore Yachts at Itchenor, Tel 01243 512611, e-mail: sales@northshore.co.uk, web site www.northshore.co.uk. Contact used to be Barbara Woods - very helpful! Hope that is useful - have fun!

 

[BarryT]

I also got bearings from Northshore a few years ago

You need the keel about 9 inches off the ground to get enough clearance to remove the rudder. Don't underestimate the weight.

To get the pin out either be brave and hit it very hard at the same time as a counterswinging hammer on the block, or try tensioning it up first with some clamps and then still hit it hard.

 

[Matata]

Ok rudder is out, Thanks for all the advice. Just approx what did you pay for the bearings? I have a good friend who would happily make them in Delrin so just giving a thought? Where were those hex bolts that keep the bearings in. I owe both of you a pint of the best! Ta Nik

 

[prbw]

Sigma 33 Rudder bearings

Cost of new bearings from Northshore in Jan 05 was £99.88 inc VAT (that also included the spacer washers), so if you have a mate who can produce the goods in the right material it could well be a significant saving. The set screws on mine were fitted in holes drilled vertically into the crack between the bearing and the glassfibre surround and inserted to just below surface level. In that position, the body of the screws stopped the bearing from rotating and the threads prevented any vertical movement. Obviously, those for the top bearing went in from the top and those for the bottom from the bottom. I'd be surprised if you do not have some fitted on your existing bearings - probably covered in filler! try clearing around the circumference of the bearing until you can see the crack all round. Any screws should then be obvious. Pete