eddystone
Well-Known Member
Have to admit I've shied away from adjusting my rig partly because it seemed "about right", lack of success with the Selden method using a folding metre rule and Vernier gauge and unwillingness to cough up for a rig tension gauge.
However I've now acquired a Sure Check rig gauge which is a lot cheaper (unfortunately gone on sale at Jimmy Greens since I bought it) and there a few things I'm not sure of. I've read a few guides and find the Selden one the easiest to follow.
I have open bottle screws with spit pin locking and flats machined at the top end and a babystay instead of fore and aft lowers..
1. I assume that you stop the rigging wire from turning by placing a spanner on the flats and turning the body of the bottle screw with a screwdriver/tommy bar?
2. With regard to longitudinal tension, if one sets the correct mast bend by adjusting the backstay (forestay hidden by furling spar so nothing to adjust there) what if correct tension, say 15% doesn't give correct bend, 1 degree in my case)?
As an aside I've always thought my mast seems to have quite a bit of bend (from above the spreaders) and think I might find its a bit/lot more than 1 degree - is it possible for mast to acquire permanent bend through excessive backstay tension? Although I couldn't do any longitudinal checks out of the water as the boat is not chocked level, babystay tension does not seem excessive enough to pull that part of the mast forward. A few people, riggers and sailmakers, have looked over the rig in the last few months and not commented adversely.
3. Why is it necessary to slacken the cap shrouds and lowers right off before measuring latitudinal symmetry? It seems more logical to me to set the tension and then make slight adjustments to centralise the mast.
However I've now acquired a Sure Check rig gauge which is a lot cheaper (unfortunately gone on sale at Jimmy Greens since I bought it) and there a few things I'm not sure of. I've read a few guides and find the Selden one the easiest to follow.
I have open bottle screws with spit pin locking and flats machined at the top end and a babystay instead of fore and aft lowers..
1. I assume that you stop the rigging wire from turning by placing a spanner on the flats and turning the body of the bottle screw with a screwdriver/tommy bar?
2. With regard to longitudinal tension, if one sets the correct mast bend by adjusting the backstay (forestay hidden by furling spar so nothing to adjust there) what if correct tension, say 15% doesn't give correct bend, 1 degree in my case)?
As an aside I've always thought my mast seems to have quite a bit of bend (from above the spreaders) and think I might find its a bit/lot more than 1 degree - is it possible for mast to acquire permanent bend through excessive backstay tension? Although I couldn't do any longitudinal checks out of the water as the boat is not chocked level, babystay tension does not seem excessive enough to pull that part of the mast forward. A few people, riggers and sailmakers, have looked over the rig in the last few months and not commented adversely.
3. Why is it necessary to slacken the cap shrouds and lowers right off before measuring latitudinal symmetry? It seems more logical to me to set the tension and then make slight adjustments to centralise the mast.

