Setting out a waterline

Just raised our antifoul line about three inches. It wont look so good but the cream coloured stripe all round above the A/F always went green halfway through the season.

We had the O/E boot line as a reference. Compared to your job quite easy.
 
rotrax said:
Just raised our antifoul line about three inches. It wont look so good but the cream coloured stripe all round above the A/F always went green halfway through the season.

We had the O/E boot line as a reference. Compared to your job quite easy.
Click to expand...
Previous owner of my FV did that, and failed to note that adding six inches at the, vertical, bow, was different from six inches round the turn of the bilge or under the stern overhang, and that's when I first used the above method to rectify it, after it annoyed me for fifteen or so years.
 
bignick said:
Why not just use a laser level?
Click to expand...
I don't have access to one. Out of interest, does a laser only show plumb level, or can it be set to any inclination? All the Screwfix ones are self levelling. See, if plumb only, the boat would have to be set up plumb first, and if adjustable, then the parameters would need setting exactly as I did with the battens.
Setting the boat plumb is OK if it's not too big. You would need the W/L plumbed same at bow and stern, and side to side, easiest with a water filled tube. Not easy with my 14 ton F/V. hence the battens and strings. Fix the one across the transom first, align by eye for the bow.

Edit, Come to think, if the boat is plumb, a waterfilled tube is cheap and easy.

I once set out the deckline inside a bare shell with a light hung aft and for'd of the central bulkhead.
 
It's easy to draw a straight line on your hull but how do you know it's the water line unless it's afloat.
I put four marks on mine when it was afloat then marked the paint line when it was next out of the water (which happened to be nearly a year later.)
 
fisherman said:
Edit, Come to think, if the boat is plumb, a waterfilled tube is cheap and easy.
Click to expand...
No it is not. A water level has a section a bout 12 inches of clear glass for the water to bob up & down in each end of the tubes. There is a line one each to show the correct level. When it is right the glass sticks up a bit ( 6 inches) . This stops one getting the mark under the turn of the bilge into the boat so it holds the level as much as 2 ft away from the point you want to mark.
This means you have to use another bubble level to transfer the mark in. So all in all it is a total faff & far from easy.
A lot of people do not even know how to fill a water level. :rolleyes:
 
bignick said:
Why not just use a laser level?
Click to expand...
Because in the OP's situation he would have to get the laser sightedwell to the side of the boat so as it rotated the beam covered the entire length of the boat. Just putting it one end would require several set ups & could lead to error.
I doubt that in the restricted space the Op has enopugh room both sides.
His method is simple subject to 5 things
1) The boat is level port to Stbd. 2) The boat is level bow to stern ( Otherwise it would be difficult to get the rails correct) 3)The rails are set in line with the waterline fore & aft 4) The rails are level port to stbd to match the boat.
5) the wife does not want them shifted before he finishes, so she can get wheelie bins out for collection before the lorry goes
 
Daydream believer said:
His method is simple subject to 5 things
1) The boat is level port to Stbd. 2) The boat is level bow to stern ( Otherwise it would be difficult to get the rails correct) 3)The rails are set in line with the waterline fore & aft 4) The rails are level port to stbd to match the boat.

No problem, doesn't matter if the boat is not level in any respect, as long as the stern batten (screwed to the transom in this case) matches the waterline across the stern......then align the bow batten with it. Neither were level and neither is the boat. The strings have lead weights hanging on them.


5) the wife does not want them shifted before he finishes, so she can get wheelie bins out for collection before the lorry goes....
..........she is moaning about the glass mat blowing about.

I fitted a small hull in the garage of a rental down the road, 1978. The present owner is still finding fibres.
Click to expand...
 
Daydream believer said:
No it is not. A water level has a section a bout 12 inches of clear glass for the water to bob up & down in each end of the tubes. There is a line one each to show the correct level. When it is right the glass sticks up a bit ( 6 inches) . This stops one getting the mark under the turn of the bilge into the boat so it holds the level as much as 2 ft away from the point you want to mark.
This means you have to use another bubble level to transfer the mark in. So all in all it is a total faff & far from easy.
A lot of people do not even know how to fill a water level. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Surely you could hold the glass against the hull even if it's, say 45degs? Water level still apparent and correct. I seem to remember using plastic transparent tube, no glass, but needs two people.
 
Daydream believer said:
No it is not. A water level has a section a bout 12 inches of clear glass for the water to bob up & down in each end of the tubes. There is a line one each to show the correct level. When it is right the glass sticks up a bit ( 6 inches) . This stops one getting the mark under the turn of the bilge into the boat so it holds the level as much as 2 ft away from the point you want to mark....
Click to expand...

Add some water so it's nearer the top of the tube. Equal amounts at both ends, of course.
 
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