Separating Rotostay Foil and Forestay

gandy

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I need to remove the bottom fitting from our Rotostay foil so that a new forestay can be fitted. Any advice on how best to do this? I have tried some Plus Gas, heat and brute force. Rotostay themselves advise that it may be impossible to remove without damage to the foil, and in fact they weren't very optimistic.

Here's a picture of the foil and fitting. I understand that this flange has a spigot going into the foil, and that's the bit that's seized solid. Unfortunately I don't have enough spare length to cut the foil above the fitting and "peel" the aluminium off the stainless steel. If I need to do that it'll cost me a new section of foil.

2-Bottomoffoil.jpg


Thanks in advance,
 
I got mine off by soaking overnight in coca cola, I kid you not, and then serious use of a large copper hammer. It still bears the marks to this day, but it came off.
 
Encountered this problem when I renewed my rig earlier this year. The rigging firm that did the job said that only two out of every ten Rotostays can have forestay and foil separated without wrecking the unit. The process is very brutal and involves heat, large vices and heavy hammers. If someone is doing this to your Rotostay, don't watch! I was luckily in the two out of the 10 band, hope you are too! A replacement (Furlex) was around £1500 . If you do manage to get it apart and it is in good shape, you can prevent a recurrence by checking the connnection by the drum and applying some lubrication.
 
Too much doom and gloom. I have seperated a couple of these. Yes you need to get them really hot with a decent torch and then hit them hard with something to break the corrosion. I heated mine then used a heavy steel hammer and a large lump of wood. This avoids the damage to the stainless fitting. You do need to secure the foil, but clamping is a good way to damage the foil. I found that I could hold it down sufficiently with rope so that the the point impact could do its trick. You probably wont get it to move for a while, just keep heating it up. If you are worried about melting the ali, then remember that the steel is acting as a heat sink, so dont heat above 3" from the bottom! When you do hit it. Speed of hammer movement and weight are important. so is using a decent size and strength piece of wood.
 
Luff Groove

While on the subject.. does anyone happen to know the diameter of the mast groove on these rotostay's.

Looking for some sails and not sure what diameter.

Thanks & regards
Tyrone
 
I agree, too much doom and gloom here. Have experience of 2 complete re-rigs with a rotostay (one on dad's boat, one on mine).

Dad's boat had a new forestay threaded through the rotostay and then had the top fitting added to the wire (either a norseman or stalock).

Mine had the bits separated and remachined when I re-rigged (Atlantic Spars). To be fair I was told that sometimes the separation process can destroy the rotostay and they made no promises, however, job done and £1400 plus the cost of sailmaker (different size bolt rope for the different furling systems) was saved.

Andy
 
You could use a slide hammer with an appropriate fitting for the flange. For heating it (for that is surely what you'll have to do as well) use a pan of hot oil, just heat the pan on a gas burner till it smokes. It has the merits of getting lots of heat on the job plus you eon't get hot spots of discolouration plus some oil may get into the join.
 
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