Martin&Rene
Well-Known Member
In the latest YM, a reader asks whether his Hunter 323 will be slower, because it has a self-tacking jib. In my opinion, the response does not seem to be a full one, especially as it gives the impression that the comments are general comments.
So here is my view on the YM comments to the question
YM: Lack of sail area in light winds.
From what I have read, the Hunter 323 does seem to have conservative rig, which meant the boat was praised for its heavy weather performance, but that is to do with what the designer wanted rather than it being a consequence of the self- tacking jib configuration. For comparison whilst the Beneteau 35 has a sail area with its genoa of 54 sq.m., the similar Hanse 345, with its self-tacking jib, has a sail area of 55 sq.m. The small jib has been offset by a large main.
Modern theory has a view that for the best “horse power per area of sail” then the jib should be round about overlapping/non-overlapping and this can be seen in modern racing boats, the Americas cup cats and modern high performance dinghies like the 49ers.
YM: Lack of sail area when reaching
YM: No control of the sail shape unless a barber hauler is fitted.
Why the lack of sail area? As seen above, it comes back to the design of the yacht.
To get the most out of a genoa on a reach, you need easily adjustable genoa cars. Similarly, the ideal arrangement for a self-tacking jib does mean you need barber haulers, in my case I have a system so I can put a snatch block onto the jib sheet and pull it towards the toe rail. This not only increases leech tension, but also increases the sheeting angle, so we had a really good sail last week with the jib pulling well, with the apparent wind at 150-160 deg.
At bigger angles when the genoa or jib is blanketed, then you benefit from having a big main.
YM: Inability to move the sheeting position forward when reducing the size of the sail
Granted, but this is not an over major problem. You do not even think about reducing the area of the self-tacking jib, until you have 2 reefs in the big main and I have even sailed with 3 reefs in the main (3rd reef a must) and still with the full jib. Actually on my yacht, I can quickly switch to a higher sheeting position on my jib clew, so that I effectively change the sheeting angle if I put some rolls on the jib.
YM: Inability to boom out effectively when going downwind.
Funny, I do this regularly. I have a light weight jib stick of a length about 0.6 J (actually I think it is an old Fireball spinnaker pole). It is held up by the spinnaker pole uphaul. One of my barber hauler line is attached to end of the pole and this acts as a combined fore and aft guy. I then use the text book method of adding a lightweight extra jib sheet to jib, through the jib stick, back through my genoa turning blocks to a winch. This produces a stable configuration and by releasing the extra jib sheet I can either harden up or even gybe if needed.
So here is my view on the YM comments to the question
YM: Lack of sail area in light winds.
From what I have read, the Hunter 323 does seem to have conservative rig, which meant the boat was praised for its heavy weather performance, but that is to do with what the designer wanted rather than it being a consequence of the self- tacking jib configuration. For comparison whilst the Beneteau 35 has a sail area with its genoa of 54 sq.m., the similar Hanse 345, with its self-tacking jib, has a sail area of 55 sq.m. The small jib has been offset by a large main.
Modern theory has a view that for the best “horse power per area of sail” then the jib should be round about overlapping/non-overlapping and this can be seen in modern racing boats, the Americas cup cats and modern high performance dinghies like the 49ers.
YM: Lack of sail area when reaching
YM: No control of the sail shape unless a barber hauler is fitted.
Why the lack of sail area? As seen above, it comes back to the design of the yacht.
To get the most out of a genoa on a reach, you need easily adjustable genoa cars. Similarly, the ideal arrangement for a self-tacking jib does mean you need barber haulers, in my case I have a system so I can put a snatch block onto the jib sheet and pull it towards the toe rail. This not only increases leech tension, but also increases the sheeting angle, so we had a really good sail last week with the jib pulling well, with the apparent wind at 150-160 deg.
At bigger angles when the genoa or jib is blanketed, then you benefit from having a big main.
YM: Inability to move the sheeting position forward when reducing the size of the sail
Granted, but this is not an over major problem. You do not even think about reducing the area of the self-tacking jib, until you have 2 reefs in the big main and I have even sailed with 3 reefs in the main (3rd reef a must) and still with the full jib. Actually on my yacht, I can quickly switch to a higher sheeting position on my jib clew, so that I effectively change the sheeting angle if I put some rolls on the jib.
YM: Inability to boom out effectively when going downwind.
Funny, I do this regularly. I have a light weight jib stick of a length about 0.6 J (actually I think it is an old Fireball spinnaker pole). It is held up by the spinnaker pole uphaul. One of my barber hauler line is attached to end of the pole and this acts as a combined fore and aft guy. I then use the text book method of adding a lightweight extra jib sheet to jib, through the jib stick, back through my genoa turning blocks to a winch. This produces a stable configuration and by releasing the extra jib sheet I can either harden up or even gybe if needed.