Seamaster 23 - New engine needed

[cassiejack]

Hi there,

I am after a new or possibly refurbished engine for my Seamaster 23. Can anyone tell me where I should start looking please? Also, there is a Seamaster 25 for sale on eBay with a good working engine. Would that engine for my boat?

Kind regards,

Kaz.

 

[volvopaul]

Hi there,

I am after a new or possibly refurbished engine for my Seamaster 23. Can anyone tell me where I should start looking please? Also, there is a Seamaster 25 for sale on eBay with a good working engine. Would that engine for my boat?

Kind regards,

Kaz.

It would be good if you can tell us what engine you already have, if its a petrol then I'd be looking to upgrade to a smal diesel while you going through the process .

 

[cassiejack]

Thanks for your quick reply. It's a petrol engine, Ford we were told. I'm happy to buy either, whatever is best really. I wasn't aware that I could stick a Diesel engine in it

 

[macnorton]

Thanks for your quick reply. It's a petrol engine, Ford we were told. I'm happy to buy either, whatever is best really. I wasn't aware that I could stick a Diesel engine in it

The one on ebay can be fitted with a bit of messing, the engine you have is an escort/cortina ohv unit, you would need to check if cross flow or not.
If you post a pic of the one fitted we can tell you which one you have.

 

[jaysparticus]

hi there, i recently upgraded my engine in my seamster 23. i took out the origional pre cross flow wortham blake engine and fitted a new wateremota sea leapord which is essentially the same engine but it is the crossflow as apposed to the pre crossflow.

i thought about the diesel option but you have to raise the deck by 2" to get it in and it can become very noisy with a diesel engine burning away on the semaster 23. keep an eye out on ebay for watermota engines .

the one you have in is basically a n escort engine so you can get a refurbed one and get it marinised pretty easily.

hope this helps.

 

[macnorton]

hi there, i recently upgraded my engine in my seamster 23. i took out the origional pre cross flow wortham blake engine and fitted a new wateremota sea leapord which is essentially the same engine but it is the crossflow as apposed to the pre crossflow.

i thought about the diesel option but you have to raise the deck by 2" to get it in and it can become very noisy with a diesel engine burning away on the semaster 23. keep an eye out on ebay for watermota engines .


the one you have in is basically a n escort engine so you can get a refurbed one and get it marinised pretty easily.

hope this helps.

I fitted a 20L Montego turbo diesel in a 23 that had a petrol watermota when built, no mods needed to the deck/seat but it is tight.

 

[jaysparticus]

ahh interesting. i had to move the header tank of the water mota and side mount it due to it been really tight in the aft compartment. the engine mounts didnt quite line on the block either funnily enough, considering the blocks were meant to be the same on the pre crossflow and the crossflow, it was off centre when i tried to use the orginal mounts and i could get the z drive lined up...
only problem i have found is that you have to have 800 rpm to engage the outdrive apparently so when i alter the rev screw on the twin webber choke to 800 rpm when idling it want to stall all the time.. needs around 920 rpm to be happy.... grrrrr

 

[macnorton]

The engine I fitted had the header tank on the side of the engine no way one would fit on the front, I made new engine brackets as the engine came from a FWD car and I had to re-locate the exhaust outlet.

Jaysparticus, if you fit a progressive carb and retire the ignition by a couple of degrees you can get the idle speed down and it will use less juice! you will loose a little power though.

 

[jaysparticus]

i wish i new how to do that macnorton ...it will be my next project i think.

 

[macnorton]

Just altering the ignition may help a bit, when unleaded fuel was introduced one of the standard mods to a leaded engine (like the Ford you have) was to retire the ignition timing but people still set the engine to the factory settings for leaded fuel.

The distributor on that engine is held in place by a clamp on the block, before you touch this mark the present position so you can always return to the same spot.

1. Remove the distributor cap and crank the engine with the key, it can't start but make a note of the direction the inside bit (rotor arm) rotates.

2. Slacken the clamp so the whole distributor can be rotated and re-fit the cap.

3. Start the engine and when warm and turn the tickover down till the engine becomes lumpy, now the black art bit: slowly rotate the distributor body in the direction that the rotor arm rotates until the engine smooths out. the point that the idle becomes stable is spot on and any further rotation will badly affect the engine performance.

If the idle is better lock the distributor and buy yourself a well deserved pint, if not return it back to the mark you made find a mechanic and buy him beer!