ThomasSkye
New Member
Evening all. These seacocks are seized. Any tips on opening them. Also, which way would be open and which would be closed? Boat is out of the water. 
Seacocks
- Thread starter ThomasSkye
- Start date
NormanS
Well-Known Member
If the handles are fitted in the conventional way, the one on the left is closed, and the one on the right is probably open. There's usually a wee mark on the end of the spindle, indicating the position of the open port. Slacken off the two nuts on the oval plate, treat with penetrating oil and if you can't turn the handle by hand, try a hammer. With the boat out of the water, what's the worst that can happen?
Once you get them free, you can grind them in with grinding paste if they need it. When ready to reassemble with all traces of grinding paste removed, lubricate with grease.
Dellquay13
Well-Known Member
I'm sure my large blakes seacock is open when 180deg to the one pictured, mine are cleaner and easier to see the marker arrow on the handle for the open position
Last edited:
ashtead
Well-Known Member
I guess if open and you are ashore you can apply water down pipe and see if it drops out? bottom of boat. Do you know make of seacock and age ? Wrapping a hot towel etc or a hairdryer type heat might assist freeing up . I’m not certain much can be done to seacock to keep moving apart from regular opening closing but I guess that might vary by make. Have you thought of replacing them?
tillergirl
Well-Known Member
You suggest proper seacocks should be replaced? Why on earth should the OP replace well designed seacocks. All they need once released, they might need some light maintenance but all they need for lifetime use, all they need are an annual light grease up. Norman is spot on.
ashtead
Well-Known Member
I didn’t suggest they are replaced but merely raised the question as to whether he had given consideration to such an idea if they had some issue given he was currently ashore . I’m sure others might have views though on topic of replacement but if I was faced with seized seacock,was out of water and was worried it is question I might consider to avoid future worries.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Plug valves like these seize very easily but are usually easy to release, especially ashore. Loosen the yoke bolts, then tap from outside using a length of dowel or broom handle to push the cone in to the boat. Sometimes the 'tap' needs to be more of a whack and occasionally the wooden drift needs to be replaced by metal.
pcatterall
Well-Known Member
Also check the to see if the metal is suffering ' de-zincification' ( it will become a reddish colour) if this is significant you may wish to replace
Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
Beware the handles can be fitted any way but which way on those square bosses and may NOT indicate anything. First check they are fitted correctly by looking at the top of the square boss. Here you will see a line engraved into the boss adjacent to one corner. When that corner points to the side boss/hose then the cock is open as appears to be the case with your left cock in the picture and when pointing away it is closed . The plug has to be rotated at least 90 degrees before closed.
Last edited:
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Unlikely on Blakes which these are as they are either bronze or DZR (depending on age) which do not dezincify.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Already answered about orientation : On top of the square valve boss is a line cut in - this when in line with pipe is full open.
My seacocks were seized when I got my boat many years ago and they tend to seize when rarely used since then.
OK ... boat out of water if you want to do job fully.
First remove handle .... Undo the nuts and then gently tap round the holding plate till it comes loose .. remove.
Now apply Plus gas or any other freeing agent you have ... WD40 ?? Its about the only job I use WD40 for ...
Let it soak in ... then gently tapping all round where accessible - try turning valve with adjustable shifter - NOT pliers or other 'grips' - they chew the metal .. handle back and forth. You can give a light tap .. a LIGHT tap to the shifter to break the hold.
You may have to turn back and forth till the tapered cone exits.
Once its out - you can now see the relationship of the Line and the valve hole. I usually take a mini metal saw and clean that line - then dab of paint in it to make it more clear.
The cone and the valve body themselves need cleaning and resurfacing ... I use fine carb paper to both till all green / crud is removed and feel smooth. Then its fine valve paste to bed the two together .... the trick is to get the surfaces smooth ...
Clean up all other parts such as holding plate .. handle ... nuts etc.
Re-assemble - with suitable water proof grease as used in stern glands. DO NOT overtighten the holding nuts - the cone is tapered and you can actually lock it by overtightening. Final adjustment is made once launched ..
I actually back off the nuts .. tap the body so cone frees .. I then get a trickle of water ... I then tighten same each side till water stops ... test valve turns easily ... then add a half turn to nuts and again make sure valve turns ok. It should feel slight resistance to turn but still relatively easy. If you have to force it - then its back to adjusting again.
OK in water ? That means you cannot actually remove fully unless you have means to stop water coming in. So lets assume that we cannot fully remove.
First remove handle ... then slack nuts a couple of turns ... gently tap round body / holding plate while trying to turn valve. Once it releases - you will likely have some water trickling in ... KEEP working that valve to let water and movement clean it. Then nip up the nuts till water stops and adjust as above ...
Next lift out - do a full service job.
My seacocks are so old and still work perfectly - that the handles fell apart !!
The secret is to use the seacocks often and not leave them idle ... I know that for certain - as its my error to not use enough !
My seacocks were seized when I got my boat many years ago and they tend to seize when rarely used since then.
OK ... boat out of water if you want to do job fully.
First remove handle .... Undo the nuts and then gently tap round the holding plate till it comes loose .. remove.
Now apply Plus gas or any other freeing agent you have ... WD40 ?? Its about the only job I use WD40 for ...
Let it soak in ... then gently tapping all round where accessible - try turning valve with adjustable shifter - NOT pliers or other 'grips' - they chew the metal .. handle back and forth. You can give a light tap .. a LIGHT tap to the shifter to break the hold.
You may have to turn back and forth till the tapered cone exits.
Once its out - you can now see the relationship of the Line and the valve hole. I usually take a mini metal saw and clean that line - then dab of paint in it to make it more clear.
The cone and the valve body themselves need cleaning and resurfacing ... I use fine carb paper to both till all green / crud is removed and feel smooth. Then its fine valve paste to bed the two together .... the trick is to get the surfaces smooth ...
Clean up all other parts such as holding plate .. handle ... nuts etc.
Re-assemble - with suitable water proof grease as used in stern glands. DO NOT overtighten the holding nuts - the cone is tapered and you can actually lock it by overtightening. Final adjustment is made once launched ..
I actually back off the nuts .. tap the body so cone frees .. I then get a trickle of water ... I then tighten same each side till water stops ... test valve turns easily ... then add a half turn to nuts and again make sure valve turns ok. It should feel slight resistance to turn but still relatively easy. If you have to force it - then its back to adjusting again.
OK in water ? That means you cannot actually remove fully unless you have means to stop water coming in. So lets assume that we cannot fully remove.
First remove handle ... then slack nuts a couple of turns ... gently tap round body / holding plate while trying to turn valve. Once it releases - you will likely have some water trickling in ... KEEP working that valve to let water and movement clean it. Then nip up the nuts till water stops and adjust as above ...
Next lift out - do a full service job.
My seacocks are so old and still work perfectly - that the handles fell apart !!
The secret is to use the seacocks often and not leave them idle ... I know that for certain - as its my error to not use enough !
Last edited:
Steve_N
Well-Known Member
They don't look like Blakes to me - certainly not any Blakes I've had or have:
- the top plate that holds in the cone is the wrong shape i.e. diamond shape whilst Blakes are (hard to describe..) circular with side extensions for the bolts.
- the handle end that fits over the cone is round while a Blakes would be square
- the angle of the outlet looks lower too - the handle would need to very bent to allow it to align with the outlet hose on a Blakes.
There may well be variations of Blakes that I'm not aware of though of course.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I have removed the cone from my Blake's 1.5 inch seacock when afloat. One of the softwood bungs sold in the usual kits fits perfectly. I doubt if I got more than a pint of water into the boat and for my Sadler it goes into the shower tray for pumping out.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
You may well be right. Simpson Lawrence and Rowe also made cone valves of slightly different shapes, but the principles remain the same and they will be bronze. I had Rowe on a boat built in 1963.