Seacocks and Skin Fittings/Thru Hulls

[RJJ]

Dankarbeitfremdschamenbootnichtpraktisch

 

[Poey50]

Dankarbeitfremdschamenbootnichtpraktisch

:encouragement:

 

[RJJ]

I had a bag of mixed bungs and only 2 fitted, so I went into the chandlers for some more bags. At £7 a bag I thought sod that, so I got my sanding machine out and sanded them down as required. I found the softwood bungs can be a bit soft and you can easily drift of centre when drilling. I had a brush handle so cut that up for bungs. That was much better as the wood was harder, thus drilling was easier to control. When banging the bungs into the thru hulls it doesn't matter if the bung isn't a perfect circle as long it's in the hole sufficiently so that when you saw the excess off it is close to being a circle. All you need to do is make sure your pilot hole is dead centre of the thru hull hole.

Quite. I could easily make them if I had the kit and the time, but I don't. I could spend £50 on 49 bungs, of which I need 14, but I knew on this forum I would get a sensible answer as well as some backlash.

 

[penberth3]

Quite. I could easily make them if I had the kit and the time, but I don't. I could spend £50 on 49 bungs, of which I need 14, but I knew on this forum I would get a sensible answer as well as some backlash.

Sorry, some more backlash for you, a 1" chisel or an axe, about a minute per plug?

 

[KellysEye]

The previous owner of our boat was a shipwright and he fitted Marelon through hulls.

 

[Plum]

Thanks Plum, but I am a little confused now! So in case I order the wrong fittings, I would really appreciate your expertise......

You say that the ball valve will be parallel, which is fine. You say that elbows are normally tapered. However on the fittings I removed from the boat the elbow attaches directly on to the ball valve (elbow male & female ball valve). The other end of the elbow is female with the male hose tail attaching direct. So would the elbow be tapered at one one and not the other? Or does it seem like all my fittings are parallel?

Thanks for assisting as all this piping and threads confuse the life out of me! Good tip about using a lock nut as I had not considered that given that none are on the current fittings. What I took out looks as if everything was screwed together using white plumber tape. The thru hulls were sealed with what to looked like hemp in the holes with a rubber gasket on the outside. Clearly worked ok as there were no leaks and they appear to have been there a long time.

Ta

If you want an elbow to fit directly into the ball valve then one of these https://www.asap-supplies.com/fitti...ings/dzr-right-angled-elbow-fitting-mf-434046 has a tapered thread to fit the parallel thread in the ballvalve. You then fit a tapered thread hose tail into the parallel female thread of the elbow. (Or just use one of these https://www.asap-supplies.com/fitti...tings/brass-male-bsp-hose-tail-fitting-418363 .) For tapered threads I use ptfe tape. For the parallel to parallel threads, with the lock nut, use a suitable threadlock - I used the red hylomar stuff in a tube from the local car spares shop but others use one of the locktite ones.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[asteven221]

Thanks Plum. Appreciated. :encouragement:

 

[Norman_E]

Personally I’d go for plastic Marelon or TruDesign with no corrosion issues

I put in Tru Design through hulls, seacocks and hose tails a few years ago and am very pleased with them. The seacocks have remained leak free and easy to turn. My previous experience of yellow metal parts was of some becoming very stiff to operate, and one snapping in half just above the ball as I closed it.