Seacocks above w/l

mikewilkes

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I dont like holes in my boat, under the water, so would it be possible to fit a seacock above the w/line and connect it to the heads.
The outboard fits in a well between the two hulls, the o/board discharge from the heads could also and the echo sounder can be inside the hull. Hey presto no holes below the waterline.
What do you recon, is there enough suck on a Jabsco pump to do it??


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anabel

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As I see it the problems with your suggestion of having the seacock above the w/l are

1) the discharge will be above the w/l - & in full view of your 'neighbours'. They may be unhappy with the sight of your 'you know what' flowing down the side of your hull & into the water.

2) Having the seacock above w/l will necessitate having loo bowl fairly high up in the boat. Probably need steps to get to it. And unless you have a lot of head room I don't know where you are going to put your head !!!

EH

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mikewilkes

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1) the discharge will be above the w/l - & in full view of your 'neighbours'. They may be unhappy with the sight of your 'you know what' flowing down the side of your hull & into the water.

Quite surprised you would even suggest jobbies going into the water whilst you have "neighbours" EVEN below the w/l !!

This could easily be sorted by a short lenght of pipe from the discharge into the water, bearing in mind that anti syphon loops are fitted.

The suction bit with the pump is the bit that bothers me.

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SlowlyButSurely

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I think there might be a minor problem if the inlet is above the waterline but the Jabsco has plenty of grunt on the outlet side. Ours pumps up nearly 4 feet to the anti-siphon loop.


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anabel

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I agree about your concern for 'neighbours' , but I have frequently spent weekends anchored in small coves or remote bays & I think I would have problems 'holding on to it' for a few days ! Of course this would not be a problem if you are in a marina.
However, if the outlet is above the w/l will the bowl not attempt to fill up fill up as soon as you stop pumping . Will the water in the pipe rising to your seacock not drain back into the bowl. A bowl even half full of water can be a nuisance in any sort of rough conditions.
Personally I think you are trying to re-invent the wheel. There are litterly millions of vessels with skin-fittings below the w/l. If properly fitted & well maintained there will be no problems.
One good thing about these forums. When someone comes up with an idea that you don't agree with, it certainly stimulates the 'thinkink process' which is good.
Rgds.
EH

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G

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I don't like through hull holes below the waterlie either, but there is a possible solution.

My boat, a Superseal 26, has three through hull holes, two for the sea toilet, which could be eliminated by chemical toilet or holding tank.
All the potential others, e.g. cockpit drains are through the transom above the waterline.

The third, and the one I dislike most, is the log transducer. This is under the rear end of the starboard quarter berth. My practice is to remove the transducer whenever the boat is left, with the inevitable young fountain. One day, maybe, something will break or jam with the resultant panic.

Solution, which is on the job list, is to mould a grp cylinder, round a bucket or whatever, bond this to the hull, around the transducer, and if the top is below the waterline, which depends on the height of the bunk base, fit a hatch which seals.

Result, any failure of the through-hull would result in only a gallon or so of water, not a sunk boat.

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G

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I don't like through hull holes below the waterlie either, but there is a possible solution.

My boat, a Superseal 26, has three through hull holes, two for the sea toilet, which could be eliminated by chemical toilet or holding tank.
All the potential others, e.g. cockpit drains are through the transom above the waterline.

The third, and the one I dislike most, is the log transducer. This is under the rear end of the starboard quarter berth. My practice is to remove the transducer whenever the boat is left, with the inevitable young fountain. One day, maybe, something will break or jam with the resultant panic.

Solution, which is on the job list, is to mould a grp cylinder, round a bucket or whatever, bond this to the hull, around the transducer, and if the top is below the waterline, which depends on the height of the bunk base, fit a hatch which seals.

Result, any failure of the through-hull would result in only a gallon or so of water, not a sunk boat.

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mikewilkes

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It's where I have my most thought provoking moments!!
Squat and what do I see to my lower right but a Blakes seacock for the inlet.
Surely the wheel should be square anyway????? :))

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G

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For hoses, the idea would be to have a second gate valve in the side of the cylinder near the top, advantages, leakage flow rates would be lower, as there would be less head of water, and easy to wrap duct tape around in the event of failure.
Also, still allows the "softwood plug" of the ORC Special Regulations, and provides a way to hold that plug down.

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anabel

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Can't see how removing the transducer, every time you leave the boat, is improving the situation. The skin fitting is still in place. All you do when you remove the transducer is to change the screw-on sealing cap. Everytime you do this, with the rush caused the the fountain of water,you are risking getting the cap treads crossed or some other wear & tear. Apart from the end of the season, the only time I remove this transducer is when it gets fouled with weed or barnacles. Then I will only do it if I have someone with me or, if on my own, wait till I get into shallow water.

RGDS.

EH.

PS: I also have a Superseal 26. Nice to meet someone with similar craft.



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G

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Where I have been moored, not removing the paddle wheel has guaranteed that it would be stopped from rotating by slime in a couple of weeks, otherwise I would leave it in place for the reasons you say.

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