Seacock

[billyfish]

Anyone know if these are a good make I guess it's the age of the boat .15 years. Been turning ok but has got really stiff over the last couple of weeks. I guess there is nothing to be done with her in the water. I'm worried about snapping the plastic looking skin fitting it's that tight..maybe leave it open which goes against the grain but there are 2 more for the cockpit drains that are so awkward to get to I dont bother now.

 

[HissyFit]

Things like this getting stiff suddenly could be either a physical failure or internal foreign object. No way to know for sure until you're hauled out.

Having seacocks on cockpit drains strikes me as being odd. I mean, in what circumstances would one want to stop the cockpit from draining, other than taking a bath?

 

[Kelpie]

Things like this getting stiff suddenly could be either a physical failure or internal foreign object. No way to know for sure until you're hauled out.

Having seacocks on cockpit drains strikes me as being odd. I mean, in what circumstances would one want to stop the cockpit from draining, other than taking a bath?

Assuming the through-hull is below the waterline, you would want a way of closing that off if the hose split.

 

[Plum]

Anyone know if these are a good make I guess it's the age of the boat .15 years. Been turning ok but has got really stiff over the last couple of weeks. I guess there is nothing to be done with her in the water. I'm worried about snapping the plastic looking skin fitting it's that tight..maybe leave it open which goes against the grain but there are 2 more for the cockpit drains that are so awkward to get to I dont bother now.

If the ball valve is DZR material and marked with CR as this one Aquafax Isis DZR Brass Ball Valve then its a good ball valve but if its getting really stiff, and the hoses are all good, I would leave them open until you come out of the water and then change them all, and the skin fittings. I use DZR valves and skin fitting from ASAP.

If the skin fitting is plastic, as you say (doesn't look like it in the picture), and you don't know the make/quality then you certainly don't want to over stress it. Higher risk than the hose above it failing.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Tranona]

The stiffness is almost certainly deposits built up around the edge of the ball. exercise it a few times and it might ease up. The skin fitting is not plastic. The white you are seeing is a ring of sealant. All looks nice and clean so doubt there is any danger of you snapping a metal skin fitting!. Suggest you get a set of wooden bungs and hang the right size one on the seacock just in case. All my seacocks have bungs hung on them.

 

[HissyFit]

Assuming the through-hull is below the waterline, you would want a way of closing that off if the hose split.

Having a below waterline skin fitting for something a mundane as a drain has me scratching my head. Of course there will be boats on which there couldn't be a better arrangement.

 

[billyfish]

My last boat I always shut all below water level fittings and she only had 3 this one has 5 and as you say cant understand why they are on the cockpit drain . The pipework looks fine so I think I will leave it open until I can get her on the beach and change it. Its surprising as it's a Scandinavian boat . Dont see why the sink and cockpit dont drain above the waterline plenty of freeboard ?

 

[LONG_KEELER]

My last boat I always shut all below water level fittings and she only had 3 this one has 5 and as you say cant understand why they are on the cockpit drain . The pipework looks fine so I think I will leave it open until I can get her on the beach and change it. Its surprising as it's a Scandinavian boat . Dont see why the sink and cockpit dont drain above the waterline plenty of freeboard ?

The problem is having a deep cockpit for safety and comfort that can drain quickly if you take a big one.. This normally means cockpit drains are low down and on or around the water line . More common on older style boats than new ones that have a higher freeboard and can drain more easily.

 

[Stemar]

Suggest you get a set of wooden bungs and hang the right size one on the seacock just in case. All my seacocks have bungs hung on them.

Big +1 for that!

My cockpit drains have big bronze gate valves. Unfortunately, they skimped on the innards, which pretty much dissolved, so I just jeep an eye on the state of the hoses and clamps, and have bungs ready for an emergency.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Having a below waterline skin fitting for something a mundane as a drain has me scratching my head. Of course there will be boats on which there couldn't be a better arrangement.

My previous boat had skin fittings for the cockpit drains just above water level. The cockpit sole was was only slightly higher. The seacocks were ancient gate valves that had naturally failed internally. I never had water slopping up into the cockpit, but perhaps that was because the hoses were crossed over to the opposite sides, but that's for another thread.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

My advive would be to move some weighty gear to the bow, so that the boat is trimmed down by the bow, and the skin fitting is definitely out of the water, then get the hose off the seacock and have a look inside. You will be able to see if there is something stuck in there or if it's corrosion/accretion on the ball. Perhaps a squirt of some lubricant might help.

 

[HissyFit]

Dont see why the sink and cockpit dont drain above the waterline plenty of freeboard ?

The worst case scenario is when you're healed over. It would be a bugger to have to change the open/closed state of your seacocks ever time you change tack.

 

[Kelpie]

When I had thirteen people aboard my Albin Vega and most of them decided to go for a smoke at the same time, they got wet feet. Skin fittings may not always remain above the waterline...

 

[Refueler]

Things like this getting stiff suddenly could be either a physical failure or internal foreign object. No way to know for sure until you're hauled out.

Having seacocks on cockpit drains strikes me as being odd. I mean, in what circumstances would one want to stop the cockpit from draining, other than taking a bath?

My cockpit drains have valves on and honest ... if you don't close them when engine is on - you get wet feet when you hit cruise speed. When sailing - the lower when heeled needs closing - guy who fitted them originally never crossed the pipework. I could myself - but as its all 70''s - better not to disturb and risk trouble.

Tip : I know I am not only one that suffers blockage of drains from crud that gets blown into cockpit. My solution is to have a short flexible drain rod fed through from cockpit and exit out ... I can then pull / push / turn to keep all flowing. When I am going to use the boat - I pull in enough of the drain rod so I can close the valve. I don't withdraw it completely as my drain pipe has a kink in it that makes getting the rod back in a pain ! (The rod is one of those spiral metal ones you get at DIY shop). It also comes in handy for various other drain holes ... pipes that need sorting on board ...

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

The worst case scenario is when you're healed over. It would be a bugger to have to change the open/closed state of your seacocks ever time you change tack.

For that reason the hoses of the drains should each be led to seacocks at the opposite side.

 

[Refueler]

For that reason the hoses of the drains should each be led to seacocks at the opposite side.

One day - I will be changing all seacocks - already my toilet inlet has lost one bolt head ... luckily its an over-engineered blakes job ... not bad for over 45 years I reckon ...
Will be a right pain to remove it and no doubt size will be different for any new one .....

As to my cockpit drains - yes would be much better to cross the pipes - but seeing as I have to close both underway anyway - its an issue I don't think is pressing. Basically my cockpit drains are only just above waterline and with squat when underway - they sit right on W/L ...

Some may think ... UGH !! But in fact its never been a problem, all I do if I do get water collecting - the sole is raised about 1.5" anyway - so I can take a small amount .. if it gets higher - I can slow down and open to drain off ... in all the 25 odd years I've had the boat - its been fine and actually never had to slow and drain.

Here's piccy of the drain rod to keep at least one of the two drains clear of leaves / blockage :

In cockpit (yes I need do some cosmetic work - this was straight after lift out this winter) ..

Here you see end exiting into water while alongside :

Quick twist / pull push and all clear .. simple.