Seacock stuck?

Just to add another option. Ours were well seized up through standing and lack of use. Penetrating oil didn't work even after weeks of attempts. Success after pouring boiling water down and gradually increased movement by fractions at first then just kept working it making sure not to put too much strain on any part -- ours are bronze.
 
Thanks very much guys, I'm almost looking forward to tackling this again...almost!

I do have a blow torch, so can apply a little warming to it first.

OK, plan of attack then is...

Tomorrow, apply WD40

At weekend, see if WD40 has worked by applying pressure and reverse force.
If that doesn't work, zap it with the blowtorch then try again.
If no luck then, cut off hose, apply more penetrating fluid and leave it until next weekend.
If still not freed up, unscrew the thing and if the seal to the hull breaks, repair that when replacing the valve.

Once all this is done, I assume there's no clever way to check the integrity of the thing before re-floating is there? just thinking that if the ball gets damaged, or the hull fitting, or the new valve isn't tightened down properly then I'm not going to know.
I assume that filling the locker with water and then checking to see if it leaks on the outside is a little pointless as it's not going to replicate the pressure of the boat pressing on the water? (sorry, haven't explained that very well)
 
Murv said:
Once all this is done, I assume there's no clever way to check the integrity of the thing before re-floating is there?
Click to expand...

Not that I know of. Our yard lets people get on board the moment the boat hits the water from the lift, to check that water isn't coming in. If it is, you're still in the slings so can be hoisted straight out again.

I'm fairly relaxed about it now, but the first time we went in I had replaced various skin fittings and seacocks so was understandably anxious to make the check! :)

Pete
 
Good idea, thanks
Worst ways is I'd have to pay to get it pulled straight out again, but obviously a far better option than watching it slowly sink into the depths!
I'll have a word when we relaunch and see what the options are :)
 
prv said:
Not that I know of. Our yard lets people get on board the moment the boat hits the water from the lift, to check that water isn't coming in. If it is, you're still in the slings so can be hoisted straight out again.

I'm fairly relaxed about it now, but the first time we went in I had replaced various skin fittings and seacocks so was understandably anxious to make the check! :)

Pete
Click to expand...
Most yards go below and check for themselves if the owner is not present.
 
Murv said:
Thanks very much guys, I'm almost looking forward to tackling this again...almost!

I do have a blow torch, so can apply a little warming to it first.

OK, plan of attack then is...

Tomorrow, apply WD40

At weekend, see if WD40 has worked by applying pressure and reverse force.
If that doesn't work, zap it with the blowtorch then try again.
If no luck then, cut off hose, apply more penetrating fluid and leave it until next weekend.
If still not freed up, unscrew the thing and if the seal to the hull breaks, repair that when replacing the valve.

Once all this is done, I assume there's no clever way to check the integrity of the thing before re-floating is there? just thinking that if the ball gets damaged, or the hull fitting, or the new valve isn't tightened down properly then I'm not going to know.
I assume that filling the locker with water and then checking to see if it leaks on the outside is a little pointless as it's not going to replicate the pressure of the boat pressing on the water? (sorry, haven't explained that very well)
Click to expand...
I'm surprised that no-one has pointed out that WD40 is a water dispersant not a penetrating oil although I've freed off lots of things with it. Plus gas is supposed to be better although I've not seen it around for years.
 
I used to change that style of ball valve on cement tankers, some were right sods and only way was to carefully cut up the side with a grinder just exposing the tips on the male threads, keep cutting until past the threads and drive a thin chisel in they always came off.


Lynall
 
prv said:
Fair enough. It would never occur to me to let the boat be launched or lifted without my involvement :)

Pete
Click to expand...
Lots of people do if it's not convenient to be present. It also has the advantage that, if they drop it, it's their fault. I've done it this way but gave the boat a thorough inspection the weekend before.
 
ghostlymoron said:
Lots of people do if it's not convenient to be present. It also has the advantage that, if they drop it, it's their fault. I've done it this way but gave the boat a thorough inspection the weekend before.
Click to expand...

Oh, yeah, I'm not trying to suggest that there's anything wrong with it. Just literally what I said, it would never occur to me to arrange it. If I was busy on a given date, then I would be arranging the lift on a different one. I guess it helps that the yard is all of five minutes away :)

Pete
 
Murv said:
. . . . . I assume there's no clever way to check the integrity of the thing before re-floating is there? just thinking that if the ball gets damaged, . . . .
Click to expand...

You can check the integrity if the valve by closing off the sea-cock, connecting a 1 metre length of clean 38mm hose using just one jubilee clip (you won't need two for this test), holding the hose upright and filling right to the top with water.

Go away for a cup of tea, or leave overnight and the water should still be there. :p

The skin fitting is another matter. Hopefully you would not have stressed the bonding between the hull and the sea-cock. A seriously wet towel draped around the inside of the sea-cock, completely saturated (including a few drops (tablespoonful) of washing up liquid to act as a wetting agent), whilst someone stands out side looking for water oozing out is probably the only simple way of conducting a test. The sea-cock would need to be shut (closed) for this test. ;)


.
 
Good advice up there, would like to add a bit:
WD40 has had so many 'compositions' with time that who knows what it is, but mostly a solvent. Intended to deal with dirt and corrosion, so it's eating the metals too. Not for leaving on the precious equipment for days ;) Spray on, wait a moment (or few hours at most) unscrew that rusty stuff and throw away - if that is for keeping I would not use WD. Penetrating oil, thin oil, 3-1, diesel, gasoline or kerosene, depending on the job.

Ball can be inspected, as if it's still there or not. But it doesn't matter, it's there for safety.
Any ball valve that had the ball stuck, with a problem of 'freeing' - is suspect. Better to buy new, old one can be had as emergency spare. Plastic seal inside when damaged with grit or such will let some water in, not much really, not necessarily right from beginning; but what with boat left unattended?
It's as a valve stays mostly open for long, some silt or calcium scale can be there at the time we close it. Or a piece of wood stuck there, whatever. Ball turning force this into seal. No good...
That's why it's better to treat them as disposables.

Same goes for those threaded skin fittings - it should be realized they are weak. Because of thread - they are already cut so prone to break with side load.
With any suspicion better to put new ones on, they are cheap and meant for replacing. You will have a new seal and everything, good for next 10 years or so, and peace of mind.

Racer from Poland tried last year to break round-the-world-non-stop-against-winds-solo sailing record (what else they will think of next...) On fast cat. Got close to Horn - and sprung a leak in storm. Not able to locate it deep down, after a serious fight managed to reach harbour quite waterlogged, only to find then that a "seacock" (brackets intended ;) ) has been broken of cleanly at hull. A tank got losened in mounts and some pipe moving about struck the 'seacock'; it was not even the pipe connected to it, just lying close...
S**t happens.
 
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OK, thank you all :)

Just to save another thread, what sealant would I use on a replacement through-hull fitting?
Anything I need to be aware of or is it simply apply sealant, tighten down and leave to cure?

Cheers,

Chris
 
Note that "wait for cure" is a matter of days, not minutes.

Also, there are various different Sikaflex products, you want 291 (or 291i, which is its replacement, not sure what changed).

Pete
 
prv said:
Note that "wait for cure" is a matter of days, not minutes.

Also, there are various different Sikaflex products, you want 291 (or 291i, which is its replacement, not sure what changed).

Pete
Click to expand...

Sikaflex 291i. The Marine Sealant & Adhesive

With a slight change to the curing system (The icure system) Sikaflex 291 - Marine Grade Sealant is renamed Sika 291i.

Sikaflex 291i is now available from just £9.38 per tube. INC VAT!! The best marine sealant on the market.


.
 
See! nothing's simple is it? even good old silkaflex has to throw variation into the mix!

Many thanks, duly noted, as well as the cure time :)
 
prv said:
Oh, yeah, I'm not trying to suggest that there's anything wrong with it. Just literally what I said, it would never occur to me to arrange it. If I was busy on a given date, then I would be arranging the lift on a different one. I guess it helps that the yard is all of five minutes away :)

Pete
Click to expand...
Yes I think if I were 5 mins away I would find it easier to be present. However, as a member of the Brummygen navy with a boat in Pwllheli 3hrs away, its not always possible. And I do trust the yard staff to exercise their duty of care.
 
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