SandBlasting (or similar)

[Switch]

I have to get my hull sand blasted (or similar) to remove old anti-foul. Could anyone offer any recommendations as to a good sub-contractor in the Solent area?
Also, any idea what I should be looking to pay for a 42ft mobo?.
Thanks

 

[mad_boater]

I have to get my hull sand blasted (or similar) to remove old anti-foul. Could anyone offer any recommendations as to a good sub-contractor in the Solent area?
Also, any idea what I should be looking to pay for a 42ft mobo?.
Thanks[


ARC Mark Tugwell forum member great guy
River Ichen

River Itchen

 

[jrudge]

About 7 years ago I paid £1000 for a 33 foot boat in the Thames area.

 

[Angele]

In 2011 I paid £600 plus VAT for a 40 foot raggie. (Probably a lot less hull than on a mobo, but she does have a fin keel - draft 2.1m). Hamble.

 

[KevB]

I used http://symblast.com/. First class service and very professional. £500 for a 35' motorboat

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

I have to get my hull sand blasted (or similar) to remove old anti-foul. Could anyone offer any recommendations as to a good sub-contractor in the Solent area?
Also, any idea what I should be looking to pay for a 42ft mobo?.
Thanks

I'd be interested to hear how you get on, I'm planning to do this in the new year.

 

[longjohnsilver]

If doing it again I would seriously consider soda blasting, much less harsh than sand (which isn't sand at all).

 

[itchenseadog]

+1

 

[aquapower]

I had mine blasted last year using Farrow system machine, results were good, as long as operator knows how to work machine it will be ok. It will reveal any damage hidden under antifoul although most people seem to blame the machine for causing damage.

 

[Nick_H]

Whichever way it's done, allow for the cost of an epoxy barrier coat before applying new primer and antifoul, and even if applying Coppercoat afterwards

 

[KevB]

Whichever way it's done, allow for the cost of an epoxy barrier coat before applying new primer and antifoul, and even if applying Coppercoat afterwards

When I had my old antifoul removed there was no need for any epoxy as the original gel coat was all still there, just lightly abraded perfectly ready for copper coat.

 

[Switch]

When I had my old antifoul removed there was no need for any epoxy as the original gel coat was all still there, just lightly abraded perfectly ready for copper coat.

How do you rate copper coat? I've been quoted and it seems very expensive but of course you save money down the line I guess. Are you glad you've had it done?

 

[KevB]

How do you rate copper coat? I've been quoted and it seems very expensive but of course you save money down the line I guess. Are you glad you've had it done?

Lots of threads on hear about it with the vast majority very pleased. Personally I wouldn't have anything else now. Been on for about 7 years with only very limited maintenance required. I'm 100% happy and consider it money very well spent.
We applied it ourselves, very easy DIY job if you get the right weather.

Now if only they could make something as good for the outdrives....

 

[Switch]

Lots of threads on hear about it with the vast majority very pleased. Personally I wouldn't have anything else now. Been on for about 7 years with only very limited maintenance required. I'm 100% happy and consider it money very well spent.
We applied it ourselves, very easy DIY job if you get the right weather.

Now if only they could make something as good for the outdrives....

Ah! that's interesting... I wasn't aware you could DIY it. I'll have to look into that cheers KevB

 

[Nick_H]

When I had my old antifoul removed there was no need for any epoxy as the original gel coat was all still there, just lightly abraded perfectly ready for copper coat.

As I understand it, the problem is that the shotblasting exposes tiny voids in the gel coat rather than exposing the underlying resin, so it's recommended to have an epoxy barrier coat before re-applying antifoul or coppercoat. Maybe it's not always necessary, as in your case.

Another small point for the OP, the shotblasters leave a thin strip of antifoul just underneath the boot line to avoid damaging the polished part of the hull. It'll take a couple of hours to remove with a scraper, or you could ask them to include for manually removing this in their price.

I'm also happy with Coppercoat, having had it on two boats, and have also had good service and prices from ARC.

 

[KevB]

As I understand it, the problem is that the shotblasting exposes tiny voids in the gel coat rather than exposing the underlying resin, so it's recommended to have an epoxy barrier coat before re-applying antifoul or coppercoat. Maybe it's not always necessary, as in your case.

You are right in that it showed up any imperfections in the gel coat but in my case the boat agent filled them individually. My boat was just under five years old when I had it blasted so within the manufacturers five year warranty. Only took the guy a couple of hours to fill and rub down.

 

[CX54WEK]

We ended up scraping ours off.

Wasn't the nicest job but didnt take as long as we expected. 23ft cruiser took us six days (two people working on the boat for six days) to remove every trace of paint and primer ready for us to prime again.

Cost us a few wood scrapers!

 

[EugeneR]

We contracted with a very reputable company to have our boat coppercoated. In turn, they contracted a well known blasting brand to remove the old anti-foul... but chose a cheap, fast and nasty process. My point is, the choice of system / material is more important than the company that you choose. A gentle system will only remove the anti-foul without significantly damaging the gel-coat, but will take a lot longer and therefore require more labour. From a few hours to a whole day, I'd say.

The incremental cost of copper coating, compared to other routes, was pretty low for us, once the hull had been prepared. When calculating the benefits of copper coating, consider what you will do with the rudders / P-brackets / shafts etc. Also, consider that most likely you will still need to haul the boat once a year. Of course, you can avoid these costs using some man-maths if you simply want to avoid the annual chore of sanding / priming and re-painting.

 

[mad_boater]

Now if only they could make something as good for the outdrives....[/QUOTE]

+ 1
Even if copper coat is as good as claimed you still have crud on the props which if you have shafts will require a lift out.

IMO fouled props can contribute 50/75% of the problems relating to speed.A powerful pressure wash will deal with 90% of hull fouling

From what I have read the jury is still out regarding copper coat.
It's an expensive mistake if it doesn't work.

 

[vas]

As I understand it, the problem is that the shotblasting exposes tiny voids in the gel coat rather than exposing the underlying resin, so it's recommended to have an epoxy barrier coat before re-applying antifoul or coppercoat.

Nick, you are right, but keep in mind that coppercoat IS epoxy, so the necessary 4-5 thin coats of it will also act as a proper barrier. You could of course start with a cheaper first coat without the copper and continue immediately with the coppercoat but I doubt it would make any difference whatsoever.

cheers

V.