Saloon table repaint.

[PAPOFCARDEN]

Planning to temporary refurbish my marine ply varnished saloon table. I'm unable to rub down the current veneer as now too thin and would look terrible revarnished. Plan is to replace with new varnished ply later this season but wanted to paint it with a hard wearing paint as a stop gap. Any ideas which make of paint to apply?

 

[Refueler]

Can you not apply a new veneer layer to the old ? Sand back the old enough so the laminating resin can bind the new to old.

For such surfaces I prefer to use Furniture Lacquer ... wiped or rolled on - it soaks in and brings up the grain ... light sanding between multiple applications. Its designed for the job. Final application can be in shade out of many available ... and then finally polished ...

 

[V1701]

If it's only for a few months how about cutting some non slip matting to size and leaving it on?

 

[Neeves]

Step outside convention, who says you must have traditional (old fashioned) piece of timber.

Table cloths have been used for decades in homes around the UK

Jonathan

 

[Sandy]

Why not re-veneer the table top?

 

[PAPOFCARDEN]

Reveneering the tabletop would not be cost effective and time consuming as it is not rectangular in shape. I'm only seeking a temporary one season solution so I'll paint with top coat then remove table end of season and replace with grade A marine teak ply.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

 

[Concerto]

Your table is most likely not varnished but lacquered. This is easy to remove by gently using a cabinet scraper or my prefered 1½" chisel sharpened on a small diamond grinding wheel sharpener (about £20) but leaving the back burr that acts like a cabinet scrapper. All veneers are thin, but checking the colour of the dust will let you know when you touch the veneer. Lacquer dust is cream, veneer dust is brown. Now lightly sand the veneeer in the direction of the grain and check all lacquer has been removed by using a damp cloth. Water should be absorbed by the clean wood and repelled by any remaining lacquer. You can locally repeat the previous stage if any lacquer has been found. Once dry you can refinish the table. I love using lacquer over varnish as it dries in under an hour and repeat coats can be applied the same day, whereas varnish remains tacky and attracting dust, plus can only be recoated on a daily basis - hence why boatbuilders to not use it. There is lots of information in my presentation on interior woodwork.

https://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/images/2/25/Interior_Woodwork_Concerto_PowerPoint.pdf

 

[Tranona]

Have you found a source for teak faced ply? Very little available now and most is not real teak but thin Alpi manufactured veneers. You can however get real teak veneer and put it on ply yourself. I have done quite a lot of veneering with my project boat using a variety of veneers. 1.5mm sapele, 1.5mm construction teak, 0.6mm teak and 0.5mm backed American white oak from either Wood Veneer Hub thewoodveneerhub.co.uk/products/teak-wood-veneer or Veneers Online. There are lots of other suppliers and a bit of Googling brings up a lot of choice.

Photos show some examples. The switch panel and saloon table are 1.5mm Sapele, the engine box top a rather dark figured 0.6mm teak, the chart table 0.6mm backed American oak and the teak decking 1.5mm constructional teak. The last one is available in various widths and actually finishes really well sanded and varnished as well as unfinished for decking.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

Planning to temporary refurbish my marine ply varnished saloon table. I'm unable to rub down the current veneer as now too thin and would look terrible revarnished. Plan is to replace with new varnished ply later this season but wanted to paint it with a hard wearing paint as a stop gap. Any ideas which make of paint to apply?

I did something similar but with a glass floor varnish, old saloon table. It looked terrible. I then applied the matt version and it looked very satisfactory, no reflections of dents and scrapes, a nice matt finish, not cold or west looking, quite warm considering. Of course, if you have bits of missing veneer and have temporary filled then I get the paint, hides a a lot of sins!

I painted some wood shelving and used an egg shell interior paint and that remained tough and durable over many years with motorcycle helmets and every day stuff being placed on / off the shelf.

I was looking for the paint I used, Deluxe brand, and this popped up Acrylic Durable Eggshell Paint - Johnstone's Trade Interior Paints. Good blurb, tough sounding paint to tide you over.

 

[Daydream believer]

If it is just paint then use leyland or Johnsons floor paint from B & Q etc.
I do not understand the comment that venering is not economical because of the irregular shape. I would have thought strips of veneer cut varying lengths, a lot more economical than buying a rectangular sheet of ply
Once finished use Sadolins PV67.First apply a coat of shellac to kill any silicones then 2-3 coats will be ample.

 

[Humblebee]

If it is just a temporary solution then I wouldn't be too fussed about choice of paint, any reputable brand will do the job. You might want to look for some that is classed as food safe though. Otherwise just go for it.

 

[PAPOFCARDEN]

Thanks very much for all your replies. The top veneer is thin has been compromised. The table top has a fracture crack in the middle. The shape of the table is too irregular with the four side fiddles for my limited skills so a complete replacement likely. I can reuse the side fiddles.50 years old so doesn't owe me anything!
.

 

[Goldie]

Can I not tempt you to a new table? Saloon Table

 

[PAPOFCARDEN]

Ok, so I finally decided to paint it with 2 coats toplac plus then varnished with one coat international varnish. Interesting to see how it will wear. I'm pleased with the appearance.

 

[Neeves]

Have you found a source for teak faced ply? Very little available now and most is not real teak but thin Alpi manufactured veneers. You can however get real teak veneer and put it on ply yourself. I have done quite a lot of veneering with my project boat using a variety of veneers. 1.5mm sapele, 1.5mm construction teak, 0.6mm teak and 0.5mm backed American white oak from either Wood Veneer Hub thewoodveneerhub.co.uk/products/teak-wood-veneer or Veneers Online. There are lots of other suppliers and a bit of Googling brings up a lot of choice.

Photos show some examples. The switch panel and saloon table are 1.5mm Sapele, the engine box top a rather dark figured 0.6mm teak, the chart table 0.6mm backed American oak and the teak decking 1.5mm constructional teak. The last one is available in various widths and actually finishes really well sanded and varnished as well as unfinished for decking.

I find teak too dark and I like the chart table, the picture with the mike. You do some good work.

Different type of yacht, but solid African Ash (that I made). The table slides, side to side - depending on the number of guests. The chart rack is also African Ash, but veneered - before I found a source of solid timber.



Jonathan