Saildrive Oil Change

emandvee44

emandvee44

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I decided that this year I would service the engine myself; just a basic service:

Oil change
Oil filter change
Fuel pre filter
Fuel main filter
Impeller
Saildrive oil*
Coolant

I am gathering all the bits and pieces together and this is where I need some advice.

*Saildrive & gearbox is an MS25S

I have 2 litres of 15W40 (see photo), which are slightly different. (system capacity is 2 litres)

I think the service engineers in Plymouth put ATF Dexron in – it certainly smells like it. (Don’t they read the manual?)

So two problems.
How do I get the Dexron flushed out?

Can I use the 2 litres of 15W40 which I have ?

I would have no problem using the oil for flushing, it is only a small quantity so cost is not an issue.

The boat is ashore (of course) so running the engine is problematic, (fixing up cooling water) but it could be done if necessary.

Finally, where can I get the O ring for the saildrive leg plug?

Thanks,

Michael
 
Dont worry about flushing out the ATF. Just drain completely and refill.

VP even accepted changing just the upper box oil when switching from ATF to engine oil when afloat in those where the change was recommended.

If you must flush then just use a charge of an inexpensive 15w-40 engine oil.

Any VP spares agent should have the O ring. 48p from Keypart.
hardware stores, plumber's merchants ?
 
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"O" ring
Volspec were very certain about that & I had to pay for a liftout in Cherbourg when I got water in the oil following using the wrong washer. Caused me no end of grief & cost

As for type of oil I seem to recall I have the same saildrive. the manual says 15w40 but a later change advised by volspec was to change to ATF
Some drives use 15w 40 some use ATF & Volvo has changed some specs. Best to contact your dealer to check what is now advised.
Saying that I have stuck with 15w 40 as it means I carry one oil rather than 2
Bit late to change after 10 years & 3000 hours plus
 
It takes ages to thoroughly drain and there is a small amount that is lower than the drain hole. Suggest drain for all the time you are at the boat , then replace plug and leave empty till next visit or overnight. Then drain on arrival and flush with small amount of oil you have settled on and refill.
 
Daydream believer said:
"O" ring
Volspec were very certain about that & I had to pay for a liftout in Cherbourg when I got water in the oil following using the wrong washer. Caused me no end of grief & cost

As for type of oil I seem to recall I have the same saildrive. the manual says 15w40 but a later change advised by volspec was to change to ATF
Some drives use 15w 40 some use ATF & Volvo has changed some specs. Best to contact your dealer to check what is now advised.
Saying that I have stuck with 15w 40 as it means I carry one oil rather than 2
Bit late to change after 10 years & 3000 hours plus
Click to expand...

current oil types specified for sail drives http://www.volvopenta.com/SiteCollectionDocuments/Penta/Misc/drive_1_oil_rec_7745608.pdf

Service bulletin re change from ATF to engine oils http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/saildriveoilchange.pdf
 
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Problem with the O ring on the saildrive bottom plug is that it can deform or tear when the plug is tightened
I have not had that problem when using Sikaflex to avoid that issue
 
Thanks very much - lots of useful replies which I hope will also benefit others.
I have the Volvo data sheet with all the pictures of drives, which confirms engine oil for my unit.
Perhaps I should have pointed out that the two oils in the picture are slightly different - hence my question.
I want to have a drain plug O ring to hand before I remove the plug.Not easy to find here.

Slight drift.
I clearly need to do some maint. on the gear box! Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Michael.
 
nigelmercier said:
Complete with spelling error.

I don't understand why VP have made this change, and I'm still not sure what to do about it with my hybrid gearbox and saildrive combination.
Click to expand...

Sorry about that. The spelling checker does not always work .

Refresh my memory about your hybrid sail drive. Top half of a 120S-E ( calling for a GL5 gear oil) and the bottom half of ?????...

bulletin ........ working now!
 
VicS said:
Sorry about that. The spelling checker does not always work .

Refresh my memory about your hybrid sail drive. Top half of a 120S-E ( calling for a GL5 gear oil) and the bottom half of ?????...
Click to expand...

Vic my dear chap, the spelling error I referred to is in the VP bulletin, not the inconsequential typo from your esteemed self.

The bottom half is a 130, calling for engine oil.

VP suggested I use the latter, I'm not convinced.
 
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nigelmercier said:
Vic my dear chap, the spelling error I referred to is in the VP bulletin, not the inconsequential typo from your esteemed self.

The bottom half is a 130, calling for engine oil.

VP suggested I use the latter, I'm not convinced.
Click to expand...

I would use GL5 SAE 75W-90 on the basis that it is the correct oil for the upper gear box and that all the crucial internal components ( bearings and gears) of the two lower units are identical anyway.

This begins to sound like a familiar line of reasoning!
 
stu9000 said:
I'm reading up on this at the moment.my aging yanmar has , it think, an annode, behind the prop. Its on my list of things to check so I thought I'd mention it. But I'm no expert .
Click to expand...

Very important to check and replace sail drive anodes regularly. When they've gone the next to follow is the sail drive leg. There may or may not also be an anode or anodes on the prop.
 
VicS said:
I would use GL5 SAE 75W-90 on the basis that it is the correct oil for the upper gear box and that all the crucial internal components ( bearings and gears) of the two lower units are identical anyway.

This begins to sound like a familiar line of reasoning!
Click to expand...

Indeed, I think we have discussed it before, conclusion: stick with gear oil. However, VP then said the opposite, and I don't get their reason for the change in the first place.
 
I note the comments about flattening the O ring. On my leg VP specify a tightening torque; I do not have the information to hand, but it's very low and I had to buy a smaller torque wrench that had such a low setting.
 
nigelmercier said:
Indeed, I think we have discussed it before, conclusion: stick with gear oil. However, VP then said the opposite, and I don't get their reason for the change in the first place.
Click to expand...

The reason for the change from ATF to engine oil where AFT was previously specified seems to be something to do with the clutch discs in the later upper gearboxes. Your gear box has a cone clutch system.
 
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