Sail Drive Removal

[TSB240]

Just a bit of a follow up to David's Thread
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...e-to-lift-engine/page2&highlight=davidjackson

I popped down to our boat this weekend to check up after the big winds in North Wales and prepare for Sail Drive removal with David.

I went a bit further than expected!

I drained the oil out of the drive having previously removed the prop. (Oil still nice and clear no sign of water contamination so a bit reluctant to replace any oil seals.)

Removed our engine casing and found some wedges and chocks that could be put under the back of the sump. (Volvo recommend chocking the bell housing which is impractical as it is directly over the gasket clamp!)
Finishing with a couple of thin plastic chopping boards from the galley!
With these slid under the engine was effectively supported before any lifting They should also maintain the horizontal alignment of the drive shaft!

I set up a chain hoist with a bit of 2*4 lashed across the cabin opening using a bit of chain and two shackles to the engine lifting eyes as a strop.I found that with it lashed slightly forward of a vertical lift that the engine slid forward very easily once disconnected from SD.This was more a function of the position of the engine and the geometry of our cabin opening. I wont have the same ability to pull back so replacement is going to be harder!

Engine easily separated and moved forward so mounts were still just on bed.

I transferred the chain hoist to take the weight of the saildrive until some extra hands (Thanks Frank and Andy!) were press ganged into a last lift from outside underneath into the aft cabin. It is an awkward lift in our boat as there is minimal clearance between bunk and underside of cockpit!

After all this I have had a quick look at the saildrive gasket which I suspect is original fit 2002/3. It still had the yellow warning sticker on it!

I am yet to work out the date coding on the rubber? If any body can help please advise?


I have established that the moulding date code gives it as being moulded in 2000 so it was three years old before fitted to boat brand new!

2 and a half hours work including a Captains Brunch and a catch up with sailing friends at the Swellies cafe
( I did cheat a bit as all fastenings had previously been slackened so were finger tight!)

Back home with SD in the boot by 5PM...


I think for replacement It will be essential to support the sail drive in roughly the correct position from underneath outside.

Next job split leg and replace gasket............ and do I or don't I bother with new final drive oil seals?


Steve

 

[RichardS]

Just a bit of a follow up to David's Thread
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...e-to-lift-engine/page2&highlight=davidjackson

I popped down to our boat this weekend to check up after the big winds in North Wales and prepare for Sail Drive removal with David.

I went a bit further than expected!

I drained the oil out of the drive having previously removed the prop. (Oil still nice and clear no sign of water contamination so a bit reluctant to replace any oil seals.)

Removed our engine casing and found some wedges and chocks that could be put under the back of the sump. (Volvo recommend chocking the bell housing which is impractical as it is directly over the gasket clamp!)
Finishing with a couple of thin plastic chopping boards from the galley!
With these slid under the engine was effectively supported before any lifting They should also maintain the horizontal alignment of the drive shaft!

I set up a chain hoist with a bit of 2*4 lashed across the cabin opening using a bit of chain and two shackles to the engine lifting eyes as a strop.I found that with it lashed slightly forward of a vertical lift that the engine slid forward very easily once disconnected from SD.This was more a function of the position of the engine and the geometry of our cabin opening. I wont have the same ability to pull back so replacement is going to be harder!

Engine easily separated and moved forward so mounts were still just on bed.

I transferred the chain hoist to take the weight of the saildrive until some extra hands (Thanks Frank and Andy!) were press ganged into a last lift from outside underneath into the aft cabin. It is an awkward lift in our boat as there is minimal clearance between bunk and underside of cockpit!

After all this I have had a quick look at the saildrive gasket which I suspect is original fit 2002/3. It still had the yellow warning sticker on it!

I am yet to work out the date coding on the rubber? If any body can help please advise?


2 and a half hours work including a Captains brunch and a catch up with sailing friends at the Swellies cafe
( I did cheat a bit as all fastenings had previously been slackened so were finger tight!)

Back home with SD in the boot by 5PM...


I think for replacement It will be essential to support the sail drive in roughly the correct position from underneath outside.

Next job split leg and replace gasket............ and do I or don't I bother with new final drive oil seals?


Steve

I had my boat out of the water in November 2014 and changed the anodes but not the saildrive oil which was crystal clear. A year later I checked the oil again and this time it was mocca. With hindsight and for the sake of £20 I wished I'd changed the seals and O-rings whilst she was out! I think the seals were the original from 5 years earlier so they were due to fail!

Richard

 

[Halo]

I changed my (Yanmar) sail drive seals and wrote up the method used in some detail. P.M. me with your email address if you want a copy of the write up.
Martin

 

[Skylark]

Steve,
I'm very impressed. Does it mean that I've been fired from my job next weekend even before I've started?
Weather permitting, I'm still planning to go to Penrhyn to finish a couple of small jobs. Will you be at PD? Which day? I'll give you a call later in the week.
Well done!

 

[aluijten]

As other said, do replace the propeller shaft seals. Don't forget to check the shaft for wear at the place of the seals.
Did you remove the shaft before removal of the leg? If not do so when putting it back, makes it much easier.
What you can do for re-assembly is buy some bolts, same size as go into the bell housing but much longer. Next use a hacksaw to cut of the heads. Now you have guiding pins to slide the motor back on the transmission again.
When splitting the saildrive, make sure you replace all the gaskets and take care you don't change the alignment of the adapter plate between the upper and lower part.
Also you may need to touch-up (paint) the area around the bolt-heads that hold the lower and the upper part together. You will need a torque wrench by the way.

Good luck,
A.

 

[bigwow]

I have established that the moulding date code gives it as being moulded in 2000 so it was three years old before fitted to boat brand new!
I can't see Volvo having these manufactured on a yearly basis,