Sacrificial Anodes

[davidbuttriss]

Having completed scarfing in new lengths of planking due to the effects of a sacrificial anode, does anybody have any thoughts on refitting a new one and not turning the wood spongy or perhaps not fit one at all? Another idea I have is to not fit a fixed anode but connect the engine, gearbox and shaft to a hanging item. This would have no direct contact with hull planking and would be stowed whilst underway and deployed when alongside.
Any ideas and experiences gladly received.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[oldsaltoz]

G'day David,

Could it be that the softening of the timber around the anode is due to water ingress in the end grain of the timbers?

Try adding 3 coats of epoxy resin to the new bolt hole/s, or fill them completely after drilling 10 mm oversize and redrill to required size after curing has taken place (24 hrs).

Electrolysis is very active with a metal prop spinning so a hang over side on a wire will give you full protection.

I hope this helps.



<hr width=100% size=1> Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif Growing old is unavoidable. However, growing up is still optional.

 

[john_morris_uk]

Opinions differ - as they say.

However many many wooden boats survive very well with no sacrifical anodes at all. When I had to scarf a new length of timber into our wooden boat (a few years ago) the surveyor said not to replace the anode, arguing that if we had to replace the propellor in a few years, it was cheaper and easier and better than repairing lengths of hull timber.

Just make sure that the underwater fittings are of the best quality bronze. If there is room on the shaft you could always put a shaft mounted anode on which won't affect the wood work much if at all. However I suspect that there's no room on the shaft in the cutout for the prop on a Stella.

<hr width=100% size=1>